my tough issues

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Mil T

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Well I might be getting closer to discovering the electronic issue.

Today my son came over and stuck his head up under the dash to see if he could see the correlation between the turning of the steering wheel and pushing on the emergency brake pedal witht the issues I am having electronically. We discovered a steering centering ring on the steering shaft just above the first steering knuckle connection that has a wire connector to it. We disconnected that and the emergency brake wire at different intervals and it definitly made differences in the way the dash and fault lights reacted. I have the hill decent fault, ESP, and tpms fault lights coming on the dash but the center console navigation screen and other items like the AC, off road mode etc. is now staying on. The odometer does come back on sometimes.
The centering ring on the steering shaft looks like a bike sprocket and must tell the electronics when the steering wheel in is the center postion I am guessing.
Does anyone know all of the functions of this device by any chance?

Thanks
Mil T
 

jdowens1

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The steering angle sensor works with ABS and ESC. When you begin to slide or slip your computer uses the brakes individually to help control where you are going. That way when your turning left you will still go left instead of right. So it is an input. So if that is faulty it could illuminate your ABS lite and brake light. So maybe when you turn your wheel you have a spot that won't read correctly and that could be cause of your lights. Hope this helps. Goodluck
 
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Mil T

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The steering angle sensor works with ABS and ESC. When you begin to slide or slip your computer uses the brakes individually to help control where you are going. That way when your turning left you will still go left instead of right. So it is an input. So if that is faulty it could illuminate your ABS lite and brake light. So maybe when you turn your wheel you have a spot that won't read correctly and that could be cause of your lights. Hope this helps. Goodluck

Thanks for the feedback. I"m not sure how this piece could have been damaged but it does make since. I am thinking that when the front end possibly hits hard on a bump or coming down hard like after a jump that the steering column could have moved enough to cause damage to the ring. It is plastic with small teeth on it. I"m assuming that the teeth are what is being read as you described.
I also noticed that when the Hill Decent Fault and the ESC light comes on that the nav and other items that was going out stays on but when the TPMS light comes on flashing and the chime comes on that everything shuts down. I'm wondering if when I was running off road all day just before all of this started happening that I may have damaged a TPMS sensor? I did run the tires low at 30 psi all day and the TPMS light stayed on just as it does all the time when I run low tires. I"m not sure how that could cause the TPMS fault code to keep coming on. I've continued to check the tire pressure and keep it at 44 to not trigger the sensors.
Has anyone else had problems with the TPMS sensors acting up?
 
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Reagansa

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I dont have much to offer but I have had issues with the TPMS sensors on a Toy. Had one go bad and had to replace. I have another right now that is dying. Sometimes on, sometimes off all while actual pressure is well above trigger point. TPMS sensor (maybe more than one) could be bad, or going bad. With everything else who knows but at least that fault matches my experiences.
 
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Mil T

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May have found problem

I decided that I would make an appointment to take the truck to my Ford dealer. I talked with one of the mechanics and he rode with me. He agrees that a Catalytic convertor is probably broken loose and is causing my noise issue. He also saw my electrical issue and suggested the steering wheel centering sensor is faulty. Today I had to drive down to Phoenix area and I just about went nuts with the chime and this thing cutting off ever 2 minutes. I decided to stop and pick up a new brake light switch that attaches to the brake pedal. I put it in and went for a drive. Walla! no chime, no faults and nav screen etc. all stayed on. Only one time it went out and that was when I got on the brakes hard, but that was the only time in about 20 minutes of driving and not every 2 minutes or less like it has been doing for the past 6 weeks of trying to figure out the problem. I'm not totally convinced yet it is totally fixed because of the one time it still shut down. But it is significantly better. I also disconnected the wiring connector for the steering centering sensor which carries all of the wires for ignition etc. It did not shut down on me on any turns which it was doing all day today and in the past. I'm thinking the one time that it shut down and then came right back on immediatly may have been the computer resetting itself possibly if that is possible?? I sure am hoping that I found the problem. I will take a picture of all the sensors etc. that I have dealt with since I have the steering, brake controls etc. all exposed right now.
I just need to get the noise issue resolved and I'm back to having fun again.
Thanks for all the suggestions and advise. It has not gone unappreciated.
 
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Mil T

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finally found the problems this time

Have you ever looked under your drivers seat to see what is there. If you think you have wiring under the dash, look under the seat. What a mess. Well for those that have been following my issues, here's what the outcome of my issues with fault lights, dash going out and noises etc. etc. has been.

I finally took it to my local dealer Steve Courty Ford up here in Payson, Az. small dealership and I was a little apprehensive to take it to them as they have never worked on a Raptor. I should have known better though as this is truck country and everyone has one for ranching or back country work. A lot of Fords also. I talked to the Steve the mechanic that was going to work on it. He knew the problems as he had driven with me and saw it all. He took it in and started on the electrical issue first. I had removed all the plastic around the steering column because that is were we had narrowed it down to. He had several other techs looking at it with him as they just could not narrow it down. UNTIL. He was getting frustrated with it after trying to figure it out for 2days. He leaned forward in frustration and put his head on the steering wheel and the dash went out. He leaned back in wonderment and it came back on. He leaned forward and it went out. Again he leaned back and it came back on. ??????? WTF he says. He looks under the seat. He had not adjusted the seat at all from my normal postition so he raised it. (I'm 6'3" so I have the seat down and back.) The dash stayed on. He started looking around at the mess under the seat. There are motors and sensors and heaters and wires. Lot's of wires. The main wiring loom goes through the truck under the seat. He noticed that in the lowered postion that part of that large main loom was squished pretty good so he raised it again. The loom pinched against a bar that is as sharp as a razor. The loom was sitting in a vertical position. Some how one of the wires was getting poked and causeing a short. He did not know which one because it was such a large loom of wires. He removed the seat to look at it better. He noticed the loom wear on it in the spot where the razor sharp bar was touching the loom. He removed the loom from the plastic keeper that holds it to the seat location and laid it down away from the sharp bar so it would not get pinched. Electrical problem fixed.
YEE HAA!!!!

So moral of the story is look under your seat and see if your wiring loom is rubbing on the razor sharp bar running under the seat and move it before you go nuts like I have for two and a half months chasing the electrical gremlin.

Now the noise that sounded like a catalytic convertor was also a weird fluke but is more common to 4x4 ford pickups.
The front hubs are vacumm actuated. The tubing that comes out of the hub behind the wheel is rubber. When it gets up by the UCA it turns into plastic. There is about 2 inches that is not protected and the exhaust is only about 4-6 inches behind it. The plastic gets hot and brittle and then cracks or breaks. This causes the lack of vacumm upon accelaration to cause the gears in the hub to rattle and it sounds just like a catalytic convertor core loose in the can. The mechanic has fixed this before on other ford trucks and this was the first place he looked. His fix instead of replaceing the entire plastic loom at $300 was to take a piece of heat shrink and put it over the cracked plastic then heat it up. Worked like a charm. I'm still going to cover this open plastic on each side with some heat resistent material but again this was something that I glanced right past even when I removed the wheel and hub looking for the noise. This piece is held on by a plastic tie wrap type holder but it has slipped out of that holder and moves around like crazy rubbing on the UCA. Hence the cracked tubing.

I plan on contacting ford to let them know of the seat issue as I feel this is actually a factory defect due to the running of the wire loom under the seat and how it is squished when the seat is in it's lowest position and the sharp bar cuts into it.
I hope if anyone else experiences this issue that this may help before you have to take it into the dealer.

Here are pictures of the problems.
Mil T

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This is the mess under the front driver seat. You can see the main loom coming up out of the floor board. It goes up over that black box. You can see the loom above the box. This is where my loom was pinched. My seat is all the way up in this picture.



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This is the seat in the lowered position. As you can see it squishes stuff down pretty good. Look at that same loom from the first picture.

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This is the same loom but it has been repositioned to not be pinched between the stock position and this bar below.

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You can see the sharp edge on this flat bar. It has the plastic keepers on it for other wiring above it. This is what cuts into the wiring loom when it is in the fully down and back position.


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This is the picture of the vacume line to the front right hub. It's the one on the right going into that loom material but you can see where the exposed tubing is. The fix was a piece of heat shrink but that's not going to last forever, so I'll probably replace that also. You can see how close the exhaust is behind it. There is a shield there but I'm sure that does not help protect it completely. I am going to rap that open piece with some heat resistant material. I"m sure it would not hurt to wrap that ABS line next to it either. This needs to be done on both sides.


Just a P.S. to this whole thing. I don't understand how the pinching of one wire can cause such a conglomeration of all the fault lites etc. that were going off and on along with the dash, nav and everything else associatied with the dash. This electrical system is extremely sensative.
 
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Fred

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Great write up...talk about getting lucky with the steering wheel bump...looks like space shuttle shit under the seat...

Fred
 

Squatting Dog

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IWE vacuum system sucks.. It has sooo many vulnerable areas and "cheap" plastic tubing. All it takes is one tree branch getting wedged around the front and its $300 plus labor to fix (of course not under warranty)..

IWE is slowly and sure gaining on RECON on my shit list!

-Greg
 

Blind1

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Nice write up, When you had this issue, you didn't happen to get a message for your Rear Camera not receiving the signal on the Nav System? I get this message every once in a while and then it will fix itself.
 
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