GEN 1 Motor swap, crank no start 2011 svt

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DJ Brandt

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Hey guys, new here! I just bought a 2011 svt 6.2L with a rod through the block. It came with a brand new factory crate motor still in the plastic. I figured it would be a plug and play kind of deal but attempting to start it I’ve had a crank no start. I’m getting a P0100 code for Maf circuit. I have bought a new maf sensor, tested each wire back to the pcm. None of the wires were broken and the new maf sensor didn’t fix anything. Every time I clear the code it comes back instantly. Any one have any suggestions? Thanks!
 

The Car Stereo Company

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typically a bad or broken maf wont keep the truck from starting. it will start and run. run like shit, but still run. so i would probably look further into the engine side going up the intake. maybe relocate fuse 27 while you are at it. most common crank but no start is fuse 27. but doesnt always throw a code
 
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DJ Brandt

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typically a bad or broken maf wont keep the truck from starting. it will start and run. run like shit, but still run. so i would probably look further into the engine side going up the intake. maybe relocate fuse 27 while you are at it. most common crank but no start is fuse 27. but doesnt always throw a code
I’ve read about this fuse 27 thing a bit. Would it not be melted? I inspected fuse 27 and it seemed to be in good working order. For the “fuse 27 relocation” would i just fully remove 27? And if so what slot do i install it in?
 

BenBB

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I’ve read about this fuse 27 thing a bit. Would it not be melted? I inspected fuse 27 and it seemed to be in good working order. For the “fuse 27 relocation” would i just fully remove 27? And if so what slot do i install it in?
You need the kit:

Was the MAF an aftermarket or Motorcraft? Could (maybe) be DOA, I would try a Motorcraft one first. After that, I'd check the connector at the FPDM (I think that's what it's called, the fuel pump modulator that's up on a frame rail above the spare). And double check the intake for a rag stuffed in there or something otherwise restrictive (shit like that does happen haha!). Are you getting fuel? Battery new or good shape? Good luck!!
 
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DJ Brandt

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You need the kit:

Was the MAF an aftermarket or Motorcraft? Could (maybe) be DOA, I would try a Motorcraft one first. After that, I'd check the connector at the FPDM (I think that's what it's called, the fuel pump modulator that's up on a frame rail above the spare). And double check the intake for a rag stuffed in there or something otherwise restrictive (shit like that does happen haha!). Are you getting fuel? Battery new or good shape? Good luck!!
I’m definitely going to check the fpdm as I lowered the spare to install an exhaust at the same time and definitely could have knocked something. Thanks!
 

rschap1

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The fuse 27 issue needs fuse box pulled apart to see from underneath at least to see if the connections been HOT.
My fuse and it's legs looked OK until it wasn't.
The connectors had been overheated.
It did some weird stuff when it was getting bad.
 
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