Mixed 10w-30 w/ 5w-30!!@$%

[Blind1]

So no Z-max or similiar additives are needed. How about when you get around the 100K mile mark, would additives be needed then?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

 

[Icecobra]

So no Z-max or similiar additives are needed. How about when you get around the 100K mile mark, would additives be needed then?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Today and engine hits a 100,000 miles then I would still go no additives unless your having some issue. But additives would just help hide the symptom, not fix the problem. Letting problems go just turn in to bigger problems. Wear, you can use a additive that will kind if fill tiny imperfections but thats what they want you to believe. The reality is it does not fill the imperfections it does not become like steel and make things all better. You might buy a few thousand more miles but by then the damage will be so bad it is going to need a rebuild. Anything that thickens oil or claims to a be a magic elixer to fill voids and stop ring blow by and fix leaking seals are very bad additives and create more harm than good. If you use the correct oil, change it regularly and change filters you keep the contminants out of tthe oil and there is no reason a modern motor will not turn 250,000 miles or more.... the oil is the key, but dont change it so often your just wasting money.... 5,000 miles to 7500 miles are ideal change points, anymore and your just wasting oil... imo...

 

[Fred]

Thanks for the information...

 

[Blind1]

Ice, I got to ask, but what about motorcycle oil for air cool engine (HD). I have been using Amsoil 20w/50. Your thoughts/advice would be appreciated. I know it has nothing to do with Raptors.

 

[Icecobra]

The same principal applies to all motors it is really best to follow the manufacturerer's advice. Oil is the life blood of a motor and the better the oil the better performance. My grandfaters f100 still runs inline 6 cylinder 1960. He was festidous about maintaining things. Thats where I got the bug to do the same thing and test check and re-test things. Motorcycle oil works the same flows fast cold and thickens as it warms. Air cooled motors can have a more difficult time keeping a constant temp, but overall works the same..... Amsoil is very good oil and that is the biggest part keeping a good oil flowing. Keeps the motor running,...

 

[Mjolnir]

Amazing thread. Thank you

Weird though. Logic would seem to tell me oil becomes more, not less viscous as it heats up. Shows how little I know

 

[Fred]

I would have thought the same thing...great information

 

[hungerforraptor]

Great info on oil.

Now those numbers on the containers make sense, always wondered but never cared to go to research.

I've noticed that when changing my oil and it's hot it does appear to be flowing thicker than the new oil that I put in which seems to flow out the bottle almost like water. I also would have thought oil becomes more fluid when heated not when cold.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[blockdoc]

I always change my oil with the engine cold, just because I don't want to burn my hands.

I worked for an oil company and their test lab personnel for about 6 years & learned these things then. Icecobra is spot on.

My favorite part of the thread is that the word fastidious was used. Seriously - I love it!

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

Amazing thread. Thank you

Weird though. Logic would seem to tell me oil becomes more, not less viscous as it heats up. Shows how little I know

Think of it like olive oil in a saucepan. When you pour the oil into a cold pan, it's viscous. But as the pan and oil heat up, it loses its viscosity and flows around more freely.