I can start off by saying that another member Harblar already did a very comprehensive installation write-up on these which can be found here:http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f81/how-install-m-r-flush-mount-slicks-29521/
I decided to take more of a free-hand approach and will outline the basics to give you guys another install option. I also chose a slightly different location. I will try to keep this as short as possible. I said I will try.
First of all, I have been contemplating doing some flush mounted LED squares in my rear bumper for some time now. Mike @ M&R sent me a text with pictures a few weeks ago, and after a little back and fourth I decided to get them. He assured me he was confident with their quality, and the price was right.
I wanted flush mount lights in my rear bumper for the following reasons, in no particular order:
1. Fun with tailgaters
2. Better back-up camera visibility at night
3. To run in dusty conditions at off-road events i.e. TRR or Havoc as an added line of safety that other participants will see me from behind.
4. Better rearward facing lighting for loading/unloading my truck bed. For example, I turned them on while loading a Christmas tree at night.
To achieve all of the above, I decided to wire them to AUX4 rather than the trailer harness wiring (which is way easier, I'd recommend it). Now I can turn them on and off at will, not only in reverse. Check your local laws if you plan on doing the same.
1. First I cleaned my bumper and applied masking tape to the area:
2. I established 2 reference lines; 2.50" down from the top edge of the bumper cap, and 7" over from the plastic edge of the bumper @ the top line.
3. I removed the mounting plate from the light by removing the 6 Allen head machine screws. I will be replacing the machine screws with stainless if/when they rust. That's my only complaint about the lights but it's a $2.00 fix.
4. With the mounting plate removed, I then was able to trace the outline of the light within my reference lines.
5. I used 2 separate grinding wheels to create the opening. One is for cutting, the other for grinding/trimming.
6. The cutting process is quick, maybe 5-10 minutes if you take your time. I cut along my outline 99% of the way with the grinding wheel, and then finished the corners with a sawz-all.
I used the sawz-all to finish the corners because there is very little room for error at the corners of the mounting plate and using the cutting wheel would require you to go beyond the edges to cut all the way through the metal.
After test fitting/measuring, I used my grinding wheel to clean up the edges and fine tune the alignment and fit. You can witness the cutting process in warp speed, here:
YouTube
7. Once I was satisfied with the alignment of the lights, I marked for the mounting screws and started drilling.
Using a 1/4" drill bit, I first drilled through and then walked the drill up and down a little to elongate the hole to give myself just a hair of room for adjustment.
8. I completed the other side, and compared measurements. Once I was satisfied with them being perfectly aligned and symmetrical, I taped off and started coating the cut/drilled edges with some Rust o Leum primer and Flat Black rattle can. Again, there is little room for error so I only coated the very edges on the outside of the hole.
9. APPLY 100% SILICONE AROUND THE OPENING, INSIDE AND OUT INCLUDING THE BOLT HOLES.
I used clear 100% silicone sealant around the opening to further protect against rust. The Rust o Leum will not be enough in my climate. I put a 1/4" bead all the way around, and mounted the lights. Clean up and oozage right away.
10. I mounted and secured the lights with the following stainless hardware + ss washers on the back side.
11. Wiring. We don't need to go over this again. I wired to AUX 4 and grounded the same location as Harblar did on the bumper frame. Solder all connections + shrink wrap tubing. I ran the wire across my engine bay and followed the factory wiring harness all the way down the frame to the bumper. It's a PITA getting it around/over the gas tank. Use lots of zip ties and make sure your wire isn't touching anything metal if you don't use flex conduit.
That's about it, feel free to ask questions.
Review:
- The powder coat finish on these lights seems very nice and I'm confident it they will hold up well through the salty winter. Worst case scenario, the mounting plates are removable and paintable.
- When I had the mounting plate off, I looked at the lens and seals around the light. The lens is some type of soft acrylic with a frame. It does not seem like it will chip or crack if a rock flies up. The frame of the lens is held on by the mounting plate which presses the edges in to a rubber seal which seems very water tight.
- These little suckers are bright
. Certainly more than sufficient as back-up lights and bright enough to set a tailgater straight. They will have you seeing spots for a few seconds.
- I like the oversize rectangle mounting plate and the way it looks on the back of the Raptor. It looks sort of industrial and heavy duty. I am pleased with the look. I will eventually paint my bumper black which should look even better.
I decided to take more of a free-hand approach and will outline the basics to give you guys another install option. I also chose a slightly different location. I will try to keep this as short as possible. I said I will try.
First of all, I have been contemplating doing some flush mounted LED squares in my rear bumper for some time now. Mike @ M&R sent me a text with pictures a few weeks ago, and after a little back and fourth I decided to get them. He assured me he was confident with their quality, and the price was right.
I wanted flush mount lights in my rear bumper for the following reasons, in no particular order:
1. Fun with tailgaters
2. Better back-up camera visibility at night
3. To run in dusty conditions at off-road events i.e. TRR or Havoc as an added line of safety that other participants will see me from behind.
4. Better rearward facing lighting for loading/unloading my truck bed. For example, I turned them on while loading a Christmas tree at night.
To achieve all of the above, I decided to wire them to AUX4 rather than the trailer harness wiring (which is way easier, I'd recommend it). Now I can turn them on and off at will, not only in reverse. Check your local laws if you plan on doing the same.
1. First I cleaned my bumper and applied masking tape to the area:
2. I established 2 reference lines; 2.50" down from the top edge of the bumper cap, and 7" over from the plastic edge of the bumper @ the top line.
3. I removed the mounting plate from the light by removing the 6 Allen head machine screws. I will be replacing the machine screws with stainless if/when they rust. That's my only complaint about the lights but it's a $2.00 fix.
4. With the mounting plate removed, I then was able to trace the outline of the light within my reference lines.
5. I used 2 separate grinding wheels to create the opening. One is for cutting, the other for grinding/trimming.
6. The cutting process is quick, maybe 5-10 minutes if you take your time. I cut along my outline 99% of the way with the grinding wheel, and then finished the corners with a sawz-all.
I used the sawz-all to finish the corners because there is very little room for error at the corners of the mounting plate and using the cutting wheel would require you to go beyond the edges to cut all the way through the metal.
After test fitting/measuring, I used my grinding wheel to clean up the edges and fine tune the alignment and fit. You can witness the cutting process in warp speed, here:
YouTube
7. Once I was satisfied with the alignment of the lights, I marked for the mounting screws and started drilling.
Using a 1/4" drill bit, I first drilled through and then walked the drill up and down a little to elongate the hole to give myself just a hair of room for adjustment.
8. I completed the other side, and compared measurements. Once I was satisfied with them being perfectly aligned and symmetrical, I taped off and started coating the cut/drilled edges with some Rust o Leum primer and Flat Black rattle can. Again, there is little room for error so I only coated the very edges on the outside of the hole.
9. APPLY 100% SILICONE AROUND THE OPENING, INSIDE AND OUT INCLUDING THE BOLT HOLES.
I used clear 100% silicone sealant around the opening to further protect against rust. The Rust o Leum will not be enough in my climate. I put a 1/4" bead all the way around, and mounted the lights. Clean up and oozage right away.
10. I mounted and secured the lights with the following stainless hardware + ss washers on the back side.
11. Wiring. We don't need to go over this again. I wired to AUX 4 and grounded the same location as Harblar did on the bumper frame. Solder all connections + shrink wrap tubing. I ran the wire across my engine bay and followed the factory wiring harness all the way down the frame to the bumper. It's a PITA getting it around/over the gas tank. Use lots of zip ties and make sure your wire isn't touching anything metal if you don't use flex conduit.
That's about it, feel free to ask questions.
Review:
- The powder coat finish on these lights seems very nice and I'm confident it they will hold up well through the salty winter. Worst case scenario, the mounting plates are removable and paintable.
- When I had the mounting plate off, I looked at the lens and seals around the light. The lens is some type of soft acrylic with a frame. It does not seem like it will chip or crack if a rock flies up. The frame of the lens is held on by the mounting plate which presses the edges in to a rubber seal which seems very water tight.
- These little suckers are bright
. Certainly more than sufficient as back-up lights and bright enough to set a tailgater straight. They will have you seeing spots for a few seconds.- I like the oversize rectangle mounting plate and the way it looks on the back of the Raptor. It looks sort of industrial and heavy duty. I am pleased with the look. I will eventually paint my bumper black which should look even better.
