Light bump Steer?

[F1502raptor]

I have a new to me 14’, everything is stock (I think shocks are somewhat newer or rebuilt). At higher speeds on highway/freeway I get some light bump steer when hitting bumps/holes in the road

Similar issues when off-roading at speed as well.

This is my first raptor but I’ve owned a lot of late model F150s (but none of the 9-14 body style). Its a little concerning when off-roading and doesn’t inspire much confidence with how light the steering is and the light bump steer.

The truck has nearly 80k miles. Alignment seems to be alright, but it will drift to one side when on the highway when the road is crowned.

Any idea if this light bump steer is normal or should I look into the steering components?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

define light.

 

[F1502raptor]

define light.

I say light because I’ve been in soild axle vehicles like a wrangler that had bump steer and death wobble.

When hitting a normal pothole at speed (say above 30mph) the steering wheel will feel like it softens up a bit and will turn one way or the other, maybe 1/16th-1/8th of a full rotation. The truck doesn’t necessarily go one way or the other, just the steering wheel briefly

This doesn’t happen with every bump or pothole, just some of the large ones

Steering feels very light in general when on dirt roads at higher speeds

Tires are BFG KO2 E rated currently set at 38 psi

 

[F1502raptor]

Saw one post where a guy had similar tires pressure as I’m running and pumped them up to 52 psi (max of 65) and his light steering went away. But I have e rates tires

May give that a try. Steering is not light at slow speed just at higher speeds, and then some bump steer when hitting potholes on or offroad

 

[MTF]

Tires set at 38 front and 34 to 36 rear, is the sweet spot.

I'm sure I don't need say this...but, wheel alignment, swaybar end links, tie rods and ball joints all need proper inspection.

 

[F1502raptor]

Tires set at 38 front and 34 to 36 rear, is the sweet spot.

I'm sure I don't need say this...but, wheel alignment, swaybar end links, tie rods and ball joints all need proper inspection.

Thanks for the info. Yeah I doubted the true pressure was the issue. When you say 38/34-36, is that the e rated BFGs or the C rated?

I did a quick once over of the front end components and no glaring issues. Grabbed the front tires and tried to shake them in and out and got little to no movement so maybe it is the alignment (one front tire is getting a little bit of extra wear on the outer most tread blocks)

I’ll find a place to “check” the alignment. Is there anything special to alignments on these 1st gen’s? Will any ol good alignment shop know what they’re doing or should I look for a place that is more aware of what to do on these trucks?

 

[MTF]

That's for both C and E,
I have the E class since they stopped making the D, to me it's a much safer option.
Some are convinced that the C class is slightly lighter in weight for better rotational mass and
softer ride and cheaper.....to each their own, it's not the way I roll.

You'll want to find a shop that has the latest greatest Hunter alignment machine.
Finding one that does a lot of Raptors will probably be tough.
I was lucky to be within an hour and half to KHC which is a vendor on here.

 

[F1502raptor]

I talked with a local offroad shop that is somewhat familiar with 1st gen’s. They were thinking it may be a caster issue, which could make sense with the light steering feel I have been feeling at speed

Taking it to them in a few days and they said they can check the alignment and inspect the other front end components while they’re at it. I’ll follow up in case it helps anyone in the future

 

[F1502raptor]

Shop got it up on the stand and showed me that there is some movement in the inner tie rod joint/end. Outers seem to be fine.

The shop suggested aftermarket for about $800 in parts (SVC, RPG) plus 2 hours install plus alignment. Or the factory replacement parts are super cheap.

I plan to use the truck offroad but doubtful that I’ll use it to the point where it was designed. I’m leaning toward just replacing with replacement instead of upgrading.

Upgrading also brings the concern that if you beef up parts up too much (like tie rods) you have now pushed the weak link off to another part in the steering system which may be very costly to fix if damaged

Shop did say the upgraded SVC/RPG would result in tighter feeling steering compared to if we just replaced with factory parts

Open to ideas of which route to go. Will probably leave it for a little while because they aren’t bad, just some play. Will keep off-roading to a minimum and at slower rates for the time being

 

[stevenstommyboy1]

Go OEM if you can. 2nd opinion also if you can. To me these truck have that light feeling on the highway. On my 4th Gen 1 and all different brands of tires and still feels that way to me. My current 2010 has only 23k miles and I have that feeling. I attribute it to the off road tires. Currently K02s. Good luck