In-cabin noise reduction!

[II Sevv]

I’m not particularly noise sensitive, but had a roll of closed cell foam (yes I know there are more advanced materials but that’s what I had) left over from an audio project so I decided I would start pulling out my interior and laying some down underneath the carpets. I only had time to do the driver and passenger foot wells after work today, but the difference is already noticeable! Tire noise and ambient road noise is greatly reduced, as the faint mud tire whine I had before is completely gone. I plan on doing the entire rear seat area (I have a SCAB) as well as the back wall and the B pillars when I have time. For how easy it is to pull the carpeting out in this truck (took me like 5 minutes to get the carpet out per side) and $50 for a huge roll of foam, it’s definitely worth doing, especially on an older truck with more rattles and for people more concerned with a quiet cabin.

 

[HeavyAssault]

That's a great simple solution.
I've used silicon/rubber tubing added to the door seals for better closing/noise reduction. Works great. Added some Reflectix to the doors all around for added heat reduction/reflection that ended up working great as well. I just needed to make sure the door locks worked since there are areas that can rub.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

I’m not particularly noise sensitive, but had a roll of closed cell foam (yes I know there are more advanced materials but that’s what I had) left over from an audio project so I decided I would start pulling out my interior and laying some down underneath the carpets. I only had time to do the driver and passenger foot wells after work today, but the difference is already noticeable! Tire noise and ambient road noise is greatly reduced, as the faint mud tire whine I had before is completely gone. I plan on doing the entire rear seat area (I have a SCAB) as well as the back wall and the B pillars when I have time. For how easy it is to pull the carpeting out in this truck (took me like 5 minutes to get the carpet out per side) and $50 for a huge roll of foam, it’s definitely worth doing, especially on an older truck with more rattles and for people more concerned with a quiet cabin.

How about some pictures, of the install and the foam you are using please.

 

[B E N]

CCF is a decoupler, not a deadener or damper. Chances are you killed some rattles, tightened some things up, and that's it. If you want to get a little more serious about making quiet happen lay mass loaded vinyl over the CCF. MLV is a blocker, and can be had inexpensively from construction supply places (its used as sound barrier in industrial construction). Lots of info here: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/closed-cell-foam-ccf#:~:text=Closed cell foam (CCF) is,CCF a very poor absorber.

 

[II Sevv]

CCF is a decoupler, not a deadener or damper. Chances are you killed some rattles, tightened some things up, and that's it. If you want to get a little more serious about making quiet happen lay mass loaded vinyl over the CCF. MLV is a blocker, and can be had inexpensively from construction supply places (its used as sound barrier in industrial construction). Lots of info here: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/closed-cell-foam-ccf#:~:text=Closed cell foam (CCF) is,CCF a very poor absorber.

I explicitly mentioned that I only used it because I already had it. Mass loaded vinyl also isn’t comparatively inexpensive; i got the whole roll of foam for about $30 and a roll of mass loaded vinyl in the same size was $150.

Also, technically any and all materials that resist vibration are sound deadeners, as any and all sound is just the movement of molecules. You can hold the world’s lightest pillow up to your head and the perceived volume of any noise will be reduced as compared to nothing. Sure, a heavier material might work better, but for a fraction of the price and considering much of the floor is just bare sheet metal with carpeting and no sound insulation, I don’t have an interest in going out and buying anything special. The stock sound deadening is just a pressed carpeting, so even just adding foam doubles the thickness of the floor insulation.

 

[B E N]

Yes, every single material modifies sound. Some do it well, some don't.

 

[Gumart1]

I think the Raptor is pretty well insulated from the factory and that is coming from a Lexus owner. I'd like to see real world measurements with an SPL meter on the soundproofing materials and really know how well it works. I once had my cab stuffed with fiberglass insulation rolls (sealed) that didn't fit in my bed and holy cow I thought I went completely deaf. THAT stuff worked!

 

[B E N]

There is a pretty good discussion of that here: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/measuring-sound-deadening-improvements.7818/

The reason your fluffy pink insulation worked so well is it was effectively a broad spectrum absorber. A lot of people in home audio will run stacks of rolled up pink fiberglass in corners, it helps suck in the low pitch noises, the thicker the material stack the lower frequency it can absorb. The application is a little different in car audio though, don't really have room for 6"+ thick absorption panels. When you add a ton of absorption like that you are getting a lot of benefit, a lot of what you are hearing in a car is noise that has bounced off of several surfaces, so every time it bounces some of it is getting absorbed.

 

[Justbob]

I would be really interested in how either Dynamat or the MLV does on the door skins. As a pervious owner of all much older trucks, I was amazed at how thin and flexible the door skins are. They have to be acting like drum skins for louder outside noises.

 

[B E N]

I did all my Raptor door panels in Kno noise Kolossus (like Dynamat, but thicker) at 25% coverage, ensuring I got behind the speakers. It makes a noticeable difference, great for sound quality. Doing 25% on your doors is probably the best bang for the buck mod you can do for a stereo system, damping the 1st order reflection off the back of the speaker makes an audible difference, and it helps with noise control, damping the doors really makes a difference on rough roads.

I have considered doing luxury liner pro in the entire truck, but it will be expensive in such a big truck so it's a "some day" project. I am also a little apprehensive about going whole hog on the raptor, @The Car Stereo Company says it makes fitting the interior back in a real nightmare, and he has a ton of experience.

My 78 is 25%+ CLD, full CCF, MLV on floors, doors, back wall and firewall. CLD and Hydrophobic melamine in the roof, all done to SDS spec's. It is the quietest vehicle I've ever ridden in, if you have ever ridden in an f150 of that era you will understand that they are not quiet from the factory. Even with the turbo big block, 5" exhaust and aggressive MT tires it was near silent at cruise.