HOW TO: 2019+ Live Valve Recalibration - FORScan

[blwn]

Wondering what the implications are of having a Retrax bed Cover (75lbs?) along with the Yakima Overhaul HD rack (60lbs?) in regards to the "vehicle must not contain any passengers or luggage"

- I know my front end has settled since delivery as my ride heights up front are in the negative. I'd love to do a calibration but certainly don't want to screw anything up.

I think they are just saying run it as you are currently equipped. You don't want any weight that won't typically be in there to get the most accurate calibration. Try a calibration and see what you think.

When I did the reset, it firmed everything back up to where it feels less floaty and more like a new truck.

I think with this, we may be able to customize our shock tuning to a point. Say it is a little firm or soft, you could select a different fuel level or preload the suspension slightly to get a different value after the calibration. This could cause issues so be careful, but seeing as I'm stock and was negative and Geiser/Eibach springs don't seem to cause many issues I think it's relatively safe. I don't know what all the VDM impacts though so like the guy fighting the steering wheel issues offroad, it may cause similar unwanted behavior if you fall outside of preprogrammed parameters. Let's just say it's try at your own risk

 

[EastEndAngler]

I certainly would not try "tricking" the system in an effort to "tune shocks" - I'm interested in this after convincing myself I've got the "harsh ride" sometimes. Truck is completely stock, ideally just trying to get it back where the fronts are reading "0" - Thankfully the truck fits in the garage and I've got a very level slab!

 

[K223]

I certainly would not try "tricking" the system in an effort to "tune shocks" - I'm interested in this after convincing myself I've got the "harsh ride" sometimes. Truck is completely stock, ideally just trying to get it back where the fronts are reading "0" - Thankfully the truck fits in the garage and I've got a very level slab!

Ate you going after something that’s not a problem? If your on stock springs, I wouldn’t try to alter the ride height. If you think your truck rides worse than the average stock Raptor, then it could be something else. I suppose running a VDM calibration wouldn’t hurt. I would not do it with a loaded truck however. Typically you should be close to 0mm on all four corners if you check things in Forscan. But after moving the truck it may not settle and be at 0. It could be 5-10mm easy in what I have observed and based on fuel etc. Yes park it on a level surface and you can work the bumpers some to complete see where it sits at height wise.

 

[EastEndAngler]

Ate you going after something that’s not a problem? If your on stock springs, I wouldn’t try to alter the ride height. If you think your truck rides worse than the average stock Raptor, then it could be something else. I suppose running a VDM calibration wouldn’t hurt. I would not do it with a loaded truck however. Typically you should be close to 0mm on all four corners if you check things in Forscan. But after moving the truck it may not settle and be at 0. It could be 5-10mm easy in what I have observed and based on fuel etc. Yes park it on a level surface and you can work the bumpers some to complete see where it sits at height wise.

I'm trying to "zero out" the front ride height on totally stock suspension. Not sure I understand what you mean by "working bumpers"

 

[K223]

I'm trying to "zero out" the front ride height on totally stock suspension. Not sure I understand what you mean by "working bumpers"

Rears at 3.00mm look perfect. I forgot to check my front height before installing Eibachs. But after calibration they come up closer to 0.00. I meant after parking the truck on level ground just press on the bumpers a couple of times to settle down the suspension and see where you are truly at.

 

[EastEndAngler]

Rears at 3.00mm look perfect. I forgot to check my front height before installing Eibachs. But after calibration they come up closer to 0.00. I meant after parking the truck on level ground just press on the bumpers a couple of times to settle down the suspension and see where you are truly at.

12/13mm is right around a .5" , enough to impact ride quality? That i'm not sure about. I'd love to know what other stock 19/20 builds show for front heights. I don't think i stand to lose/screw anything up by completing the procedure. Those measurements are a couple months old at this point. I will try to check later this afternoon to see if there's been any change. I will follow the 50ft roll out before measuring.

 

[blwn]

I'm trying to "zero out" the front ride height on totally stock suspension. Not sure I understand what you mean by "working bumpers"

if you're still showing similar negative values, then running the calibration will make the shocks firmer from my experience.

 

[Jeff-Ohio]

IF you have a tune, you may not see the VDM option.

I have an MPT tune and I had to return the truck to stock in order to do the calibration. My readings were 1.8 inches for both the left and right front and .12 inches for both sides in the rear. After the calibration, I am now at zero on all four corners. I did a test drive in rainy conditions and I honestly did not notice much of a difference. The weather will be better tomorrow, so I will do another test run, but it doesn't appear that much has changed for street use. In case anybody is wondering about my setup, I am running 37" KO2 tires with Geiser springs up front and Deaver+3 in the rear. Thanks to all for sharing their info!!!!!

 

[blwn]

IF you have a tune, you may not see the VDM option.

I have an MPT tune and I had to return the truck to stock in order to do the calibration. My readings were 1.8 inches for both the left and right front and .12 inches for both sides in the rear. After the calibration, I am now at zero on all four corners. I did a test drive in rainy conditions and I honestly did not notice much of a difference. The weather will be better tomorrow, so I will do another test run, but it doesn't appear that much has changed for street use. In case anybody is wondering about my setup, I am running 37" KO2 tires with Geiser springs up front and Deaver+3 in the rear. Thanks to all for sharing their info!!!!!

Wow +45mm on the front? I knew the Geisers were taller than the Eibach but I'm surprised you didn't notice much of a difference right away. Maybe the 37s are masking some of the stiffness I thought you would have had

 

[Jeff-Ohio]

Wow +45mm on the front? I knew the Geisers were taller than the Eibach but I'm surprised you didn't notice much of a difference right away. Maybe the 37s are masking some of the stiffness I thought you would have had

I definitely thought I would see a huge difference and I will know for sure today when I take a longer test ride on dry ground, but my test drive last night felt about the same. This is just some wild hypothesizing on my side, but I'm guessing the shock stiffens as it is compressed. If my values were negative which would mean the shock was in a state of compression, then I believe I would have noticed a much softer ride after the calibration. Since my readings were fairly high positive values, maybe anything over zero behaves the same and the shocks do not start to stiffen until negative values are seen? If that is the case, then that would explain what I experienced. If anybody has any details on how the shocks behave with certain values, please share. If my hypothesis is correct, then my ride today might actually be stiffer since the shock will now very quickly record negative numbers since the starting point is zero instead of 1.8 inches. If that is the case, I may try to achieve a softer street ride again by lying on the gas levels to force positive values? I drove the truck with the large positive values for about 30k miles with no issues.