Help Please Bad Turbo 1500 miles from home

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

squeezer

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Posts
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Portland
“Long time listener first time caller”

Have a 2019, bought new, 30K miles. 5K oil changes, I drive like I’m driving Miss Daisy. Purchased but not installed stage 2 system from Goosetune.

Plugged the Cobb Accessport in and did their base tune a while back. About the same time noticed a slight whine. sounded like it could have been tires. Didn’t give it much thought…

Fast forward to a few weeks ago. A family situation (Father in law cancer treatment…) pushed the wife and I into buying a travel trailer for our three week “Vacation”. Road trip from Portland Oregon to Northern Saskatchewan via Jasper (Might as well show the kids the Rockies). Built a custom spring pack (will post more on that later as the results exceeded all expectations). Had the dealer do an oil change, installed the factory tune and hit the road. Truck was running fine, handled the 5000# trailer well on the drive North.

Night one was spent in Kamloops BC at a friends farm. Morning routine is to check oil cold… Hmmmmm It’s barely on the stick and dirty… I add two quarts of Mobil 1 and cuss the sloppy dealer service. My walk around also shows that the pipes are a bit sooty compared to usual. Hmmmm, the engine is running 6-8lbs of boost all the time, burning twice the fuel, using tow/haul so lots of engine braking. Going to chalk that up to the duty cycle and not worry about it.

Next fuel stop (300 miles or so) the oil is low on the stick but within the dots. Added a quart and headed over the mountains. Night two is just outside of Edmonton at my aunts house. We park there for two days enjoying some family time. Yesterday I’m doing the pre flight and the oil is not on the stick *@#R%^&** This is not good!!! Five quarts of oil in 1000 miles has my attention. Top it off and point the wheel towards Saskatchewan.

Traveling with two kids and a dog gives one lots of opportunity for pee breaks. One of those breaks yesterday was on the side of a relatively busy highway… The boy jumps out, pees with the prairie wind at his back and we are rolling again. I get into the truck about 3/4 throttle, see a whiff of black smoke and hear a chatter/rattle from what I think is the passenger side engine compartment.

(Hold that thought)

300 miles latter we have stopped at my wife’s uncles farm for a visit/snack. I check the oil again and add a half quart. Consumption isn’t as bad on the flats which makes sense based on not having to climb or engine brake anywhere near as much as the last two days. I also check the air filter WHICH IS HEAVILY COATED WITH OIL ON THE ATMOSPHER SIDE. This strikes me as weird as the housing is clean, almost looks like it was oiled on purpose. (Not a K&N, stock Ford…) I am at a loss as to how a filter gets oiled on the “Dirty” side while the housing and plenum is clean. The engine side of the filter is not oiled at all… Replace the filter in the parking lot of Lakeland Ford in Prince Albert Saskatchewan and head North to the in-laws. Truck is running 2-3 pounds less boost at the same speed on level ground suggesting the filter was restricted.

This brings us to now. Have just spent a few hours cruising the net and am heading to the truck to do some trouble shooting.

The factors:

“Tire Noise” ===> Turbo dying
Oil Cinsumption===> Turbo dying
Chatter/rattle on high boost condition===> Turbo dying

Plugged filter===> Kills Turbos

Thinking the plugged filter took out the passenger side turbo. Not sure how much disassembly is required to verify that fact.


Assuming it is one or both turbos what are the best fix options?

OEM
Garrett Upgrades
???

I have about 10 days to decide on the fix, order parts, and install them. I am a pretty decent mechanic and have access to all the standard tools a guy might need. No hoist and might have to borrow jack stands to pull the wheels.

If upgraded turbos are the choice can they run with a stock tune (towing at 65MPH) for 1500 miles?

Number one priority is not breaking down on the way home.


Thoughts and comments are welcome

Thanks in advance

sq
 

shigman

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2022
Posts
882
Reaction score
1,182
Location
Cypress, TX
A simple thing to try would be doing another oil change and seeing what comes out of the pan. No oil leaks i assume? Is the truck out of warranty? Are you seeing the same performance/power as before?
 

Pikser

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2017
Posts
298
Reaction score
316
Take it to a dealer for diagnose.
Then decide next step.
 

smurfslayer

Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Posts
16,799
Reaction score
25,104
That’s a lot of oil usage from what you’re describing...

First things first:
200.gif
Yellow card for --5 YEARS between joining and posting. On second thought...
200.gif

I like where @shigman is at-
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/thr...n-too”-raptor-some-things-to-look-for.101501/ there are some known oil consumption issues - valve cover related for one.

That chatter / rattle may or may not be related. The IWE systems are known to make noise - you’d probably be able to tell the difference but just in case - if it doesn’t happen in 4a as opposed to 2h, then that symptom is in the iwe system.
 

shigman

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2022
Posts
882
Reaction score
1,182
Location
Cypress, TX
Could the heavy blow by/consumption be causing a reduction in octane and then engine knock (clatter)? I haven't heard engine knock for so long, forgot what it sounded like.
 
OP
OP
S

squeezer

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Posts
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Portland
Going to answer the above questions and add some info.



No external leaks.
Aged out of warranty.
No noticeable loss of power but I drive slow with the trailer.

There was minimal oil consumption prior to this trip. (Minimizes the probability of the valve cover thing)

4-5 quarts in 1500 miles is BAD by my standards. It could be less than that by 1-2 quarts depending on the level it left the dealer with. (Not unthinkable that there were shortcuts taken there)

Running 95 octane fuel so knock should not factor in.

What is IWE chatter???


OK on to what I know after taking some stuff apart.

Filtered air side is white glove clean. Not a spec of dust anywhere in the clean side of the filter. The road side is also clean except for the well oiled filter. Still baffled on how that happened.

Pulled the skid plate and removed both turbo to intercooler connector hoses. There was a tiny bit of oil in both but no debris at all. And by tiny bit I’m talking 5-6 drops total.

Pulled the MAF to intake hose and it was also very clean.

At first pass it looks like the cold side is OK.

Going to go button that up and try and take a look at the compressor inlet of the passenger side turbo. Not sure if a person can get an indication of play doing that or not.

As I keep chasing the root cause is there any value in data logging with the Accessport? Have not had the time to play with that at all yet. Thinking comparing Right and Left sides of any turbo parameter might help…

Can anybody comment on what might be useful?

Headed back out there

SQ
 

Muchmore

FRF Addict
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Posts
1,483
Reaction score
2,629
Location
Kansas City
The oily side of the air cleaner could easily be from PCV blowby. I don't have a "catch can" and my K&N can get very oily sometimes, especially if I am in the turbo a lot, like pulling. That much oil usage is the motherload, I mean if the dealer left it that low shame on them but if you are using/losing that much, holy cow. What do the plugs look like?
 

Old-Raptor-guy

FRF Addict
Joined
Jul 25, 2021
Posts
1,642
Reaction score
3,547
Location
USA
The PCV/crankcase vent system dumps crankcase vapors into the turbo inlet under boost (only place on the engine that is low pressure/suction under boost) so some oil residue there is normal.

In my experience that much oil from a bad turbo seal would cause smoke out the exhaust.

But that much past piston rings would not.

Just my $0.02,

And I am starting (even after 10+ years of DI gas engines) to learn more and more about them.

High engine load low RPM can cause some detonation. Which goes without saying as that is when detonation happens in a non-DI engine.

But because the fuel is concentrated in the center of the cylinder the pre-igntion happens at the edge of the piston attacking the ring lands.

Basically don't drive like grandma, AND (!!!!!!) The "normal" or "eco" (regular F150) mode would make this worse as it trys to upshift as fast a possible.
 

Nex

RIP CoronaRaptor
Joined
Sep 2, 2021
Posts
7,875
Reaction score
21,864
Location
Washington State
As mentioned, it sounds like the PVC is oiling the dirty side of the filter.

Edit: Raptor is not ment for towing. How does it drive without a trailer? Have you checked the wasted gate springs? Use the search function and look for IWE.
 
Last edited:
Top