H&M racing design long travel kit

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canamds450

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Your going to have to help us out here. Not sure what you are asking.


Sorry if that sound stupid, but i need to know the location of the welding
Those are shocks leveled, the bypass is larger than coilolvers.
If i compressed coilovers need to be weld it 1" below the bypass.
Is that ok.

91066b1506c08bdc7fec164515222d6a.jpg

I got that digital lever from amazon it arrived today, so i started doing the correct measure
Truck is leveled side to front




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This scares me.... I think you need to have a talk with the guy installing your kit. The coilover mounts should definitely fit better than this....

hnm-panama-lt1-1024x773.jpg
Damn it Jason, didn't you ever read the book of The Piece?
Rule #2,
The weld is the strongest part of the joint, therefore fabricate the joint with as much of a gap as possible, so that there will be more weld, making the joint stronger.

The Book Of The Piece
 

speed45

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i just ordered a beam angle digital lever, will that help to make sure the recommended caster is around 4.0 to 4.3?

i will move a arms a bit forward, where it supposed to be and upper mounts going to be measure with digital angle as well. probably on wednesday, i will be having that lever on my hand.
so i going to make sure all the measure i got will be exactly the same with the truck flat and lever.
it is a magnetic lever got it at amazon

take a look of the caster how is doing right now


You should really be making a caster measurement with some wheel bubble levels while at your ride height.....putting an angle finder on different parts of the suspension is not going to work. In addition, caster angle can change depending on where it is in your suspension's cycle. In an off road setup up castor should be checked through a full suspension cycle to make sure it doesn't do anything weird at the top or bottom of its travel.

Caster is a very powerful angle in suspension geometry, it can make your car handle really well or really bad.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check your camber as well.....when adjusting for caster it can affect camber and vice versa.
 
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canamds450

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You should really be making a caster measurement with some wheel bubble levels while at your ride height.....putting an angle finder on different parts of the suspension is not going to work. In addition, caster angle can change depending on where it is in your suspension's cycle. In an off road setup up castor should be checked through a full suspension cycle to make sure it doesn't do anything weird at the top or bottom of its travel.



Caster is a very powerful angle in suspension geometry, it can make your car handle really well or really bad.



Wouldn't be a bad idea to check your camber as well.....when adjusting for caster it can affect camber and vice versa.


It should be at 4 degree?
In order to avoid moving the upper a arm forward to decrease caster, can i help it with spacer at lower plate? Just to move it forward, just saying because my atv works that way to play with caster


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speed45

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It should be at 4 degree?
In order to avoid moving the upper a arm forward to decrease caster, can i help it with spacer at lower plate? Just to move it forward, just saying because my atv works that way to play with caster


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Depends on what you want. From my understanding the rule of thumb for an off road suspension setup is around +6 degrees of caster, this seems to be the ideal amount to work with. However, that number can change depending upon the application and vehicle.....and by that I mean that some kits may not allow for that much caster. In addition, every car is different so you may not need/want that much. So in that instance you should just work with your stock measurements to retain the drivability of the vehicle.

As far as adjustment goes....I don't see any way to shim or adjust the a-arms. So before you weld everything up I would tack weld everything and get some proper measurements utilizing a 3 point caster swing with wheel bubble levels at ride height. These can also check your camber......they are around $100 and work as well as a laser alignment. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/4277878861969206258?q=caster+camber+bubble+levels&client=safari&rls=en&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.75775273,d.cWc,pv.xjs.s.en_US.9YGum3Fv7uk.O&biw=1422&bih=730&tch=1&ech=1&psi=Sb8dVJ2JNovIsATenYCoDQ.1411235658576.3&ei=U78dVMTeAubjsAT5moC4CA&ved=0CIEBEKYrMAI

Caster is determined by the angle of the upper and lower balljoints from 0 degrees, unless you can establish true 0 from your lower balljoint and then measure perfectly to center pivot on your upper balljoint with an angle finder you will never get an accurate measurement. When you perform a caster swing from center you are establishing your true baseline geometry while measuring the change from center. After you have those measurement you can calculate your caster using a simple equation. This is what you do with the bubble levels, and it is just as good as laser alignment when done properly. A laser alignment just does all the math and calculation for you to speed the process up.

You need to get some REAL baseline numbers before you adjust anything, right now there is no way of knowing where you are at based on what I saw in this thread.
 
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canamds450

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Depends on what you want. From my understanding the rule of thumb for an off road suspension setup is around +6 degrees of caster, this seems to be the ideal amount to work with. However, that number can change depending upon the application and vehicle.....and by that I mean that some kits may not allow for that much caster. In addition, every car is different so you may not need/want that much. So in that instance you should just work with your stock measurements to retain the drivability of the vehicle.



As far as adjustment goes....I don't see any way to shim or adjust the a-arms. So before you weld everything up I would tack weld everything and get some proper measurements utilizing a 3 point caster swing with wheel bubble levels at ride height. These can also check your camber......they are around $100 and work as well as a laser alignment. https://www.google.com/shopping/pro....3&ei=U78dVMTeAubjsAT5moC4CA&ved=0CIEBEKYrMAI



Caster is determined by the angle of the upper and lower balljoints from 0 degrees, unless you can establish true 0 from your lower balljoint and then measure perfectly to center pivot on your upper balljoint with an angle finder you will never get an accurate measurement. When you perform a caster swing from center you are establishing your true baseline geometry while measuring the change from center. After you have those measurement you can calculate your caster using a simple equation. This is what you do with the bubble levels, and it is just as good as laser alignment when done properly. A laser alignment just does all the math and calculation for you to speed the process up.



You need to get some REAL baseline numbers before you adjust anything, right now there is no way of knowing where you are at based on what I saw in this thread.


Thanks for the info


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