Don't have my Raptor 3.0 IBPs apart yet, but here are the last set of Fox 2.5 and 3.0 IBPs I had apart to service and revalve.
The 2.5 IBPs use the shim stacks for a 2.0 series "regular" shock, the 3.0s use the stacks for 2.5 series shocks.
I am 99% sure when I get in the rears they will be the same as any other 3.0 Fox IBP (bigger piston than a 2.5 IBP). The face shims on the compression side of the valve start at 1.800 inches. I say this because when I look at my seal kits between the Polaris 3.0 Live Valve (from Schmidty) and the Ford 3.0 Live Valve (from ShockSeals) the majority of the parts look identical. The Schmidty kit just has a LOT more parts in it and also costs more.
Without having the exact math, doing a few guesstimations you are looking at about a 60% increase in piston surface area which is significant in damping control.
These are the last set of 3.0 Fox IBP shocks I had apart, and were built and tuned by one of the "best" off road suspension race shops. See if any of you can spot the reason this Pro N/A Polaris XP was always kicking to the left when you went deep into the rear shock travel over any hole or set of whoops. Right rear shock is on the right side (and for a clue, it is the one that had the problem).
The 2.5 IBPs use the shim stacks for a 2.0 series "regular" shock, the 3.0s use the stacks for 2.5 series shocks.
I am 99% sure when I get in the rears they will be the same as any other 3.0 Fox IBP (bigger piston than a 2.5 IBP). The face shims on the compression side of the valve start at 1.800 inches. I say this because when I look at my seal kits between the Polaris 3.0 Live Valve (from Schmidty) and the Ford 3.0 Live Valve (from ShockSeals) the majority of the parts look identical. The Schmidty kit just has a LOT more parts in it and also costs more.
Without having the exact math, doing a few guesstimations you are looking at about a 60% increase in piston surface area which is significant in damping control.
These are the last set of 3.0 Fox IBP shocks I had apart, and were built and tuned by one of the "best" off road suspension race shops. See if any of you can spot the reason this Pro N/A Polaris XP was always kicking to the left when you went deep into the rear shock travel over any hole or set of whoops. Right rear shock is on the right side (and for a clue, it is the one that had the problem).
