Gen1 font shock removal

[rschap1]

I am sure this will be an easy one
Tried searching a little, but wasn't sure.
And I am sure that once I get to it, it will be obvious.
Can the top nuts be removed from the front shocks on a Gen 1 (2011 Super Crew) and drop them out of the springs??
Getting closer to either replacing or getting all 4 shocks.
See most threads and videos show removing the whole assembly, spring compressor, removing retaining ring, etc.
Looking at the shock itself, wondered if the lower mounting bolt can be taken out, lower control arm dropped down, top nut taken off shock, and shock slid out center of spring.
Thought it would be nice if that is the case.
Disturb a lot less stuff at the top mount.
And of course...next...
Can new/rebuilt shock have ring placed on body (planing mid point instead of lowest-read that is OK on 2011-want a lil' bit higher/level front end), bolt in lower shock mount, drop truck weight back on, and reinstall top mount bolt???
OK, and one more last one
Going from lowest ring position to mid, will require front end alignment, correct?
Guessing a softball for everyone who has already been there, done that.
THANKS in advance ! ! !

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

I am sure this will be an easy one
Tried searching a little, but wasn't sure.
And I am sure that once I get to it, it will be obvious.
Can the top nuts be removed from the front shocks on a Gen 1 (2011 Super Crew) and drop them out of the springs??
Getting closer to either replacing or getting all 4 shocks.
See most threads and videos show removing the whole assembly, spring compressor, removing retaining ring, etc.
Looking at the shock itself, wondered if the lower mounting bolt can be taken out, lower control arm dropped down, top nut taken off shock, and shock slid out center of spring.
Thought it would be nice if that is the case.
Disturb a lot less stuff at the top mount.
And of course...next...
Can new/rebuilt shock have ring placed on body (planing mid point instead of lowest-read that is OK on 2011-want a lil' bit higher/level front end), bolt in lower shock mount, drop truck weight back on, and reinstall top mount bolt???
OK, and one more last one
Going from lowest ring position to mid, will require front end alignment, correct?
Guessing a softball for everyone who has already been there, done that.
THANKS in advance ! ! !

rookie. pull the entire shock out. you will spend more time dealing with the tiny spring compressors trying to get them to compress enough to get the shock out. plus those little things are unsafe for springs our size. its much easier and safer to pull everything out at once and swap springs with a real spring compressor.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

also midnperch is fine. 2012 is when they introduced the torsen front diff and top perch was a no go from then on

 

[Gryphon313]

Coilovers don’t work that way. The spring is captured by the shock body and top mount. If you were to remove the top nut on the shock stud while still in the vehicle the spring would shove the lower control arm down so tight that you would not be able to remove anything. Not to mention that the stored energy in that spring could kill you if not handled properly.

Removing the coilover assembly is not that difficult. Swapping springs is another story altogether. Without experience and proper tools it’s an accident waiting to happen.

Oh… anytime you change the suspension height, your alignment will be affected. In the case of going low to mid perch, the most noticeable would likely be that your steering wheel is off center a little due to a change in toe.

 

[rschap1]

I guess I was not realizing that there was still pressure on the spring even when the suspension dropped.
Was thinking I might even call around to a few local shops and see who might squash the springs without charging too much.
Few years back I replaced upper strut mounts on our Grand Prix.
Used a 2x4 under work bench and spent an afternoon compressing those springs with my chest as I wrenched on hardware to get them apart then together again.
2-3 days later stopped by a shop to get car scanned and was told that they would have done what I did for $10-15 with their new hydraulic strut machine.
Felt like more of a knot head than usual after working myself so hard for a couple $$$.
Not in a hurry for shocks now that it is winter.
Going to see who will squash these so I don't have to.

Guessing anytime the upper mount gets removed/relocated an alignment would be needed.
Assuming that there are oversize slotted holes for adjustment.
OR
is it just the change from low to mid-point that would dictate the need to re-align?
As always THANKS !!!

 

[Gryphon313]

The coilovers don’t have anything to do with alignment other than if you change their ride height, you’ll affect the alignment. Alignment is set on these rigs with the tie-rods (toe) and lower control arm (camber/caster). Aftermarket upper control arms can add additional adjustability. There are plenty of good videos on YouTube that detail coilover removal. I’d recommend that you take a look to see if it’s something you want to attempt.

 

[rschap1]

After looking and shopping... starting to lean more towards ordering new rather than rebuild.
Locally I can have 4 done for $800 if no major parts needed.
See a little cheaper "starting" costs for the popular online re-builders.
Then I started adding shipping, and looking at refinishing.
Have only seen some folks repainting.
Mine look pretty corroded and would like something nicer than how they look now.
Another set for sale here pretty cheap.
Thought of using those to swap.
But those pics look worse than mine and seller lists as needing rebuild.
Thought for the price may be worth "cores".
Anyone know of other finish options/replacement decals?
Or is it really best deal just getting new?
Figured a little cost could be recovered selling off mine after getting new, or having as spare set...
Too bad Santa ain't dropping off big bags of ca$h

I got time to figure it all out now, blizzard and over a foot of snow overnight.
Close to zero temperature with nearly-20 windchill.
Won't be wrenching in the garage until it gets warmer than this.
And..
BTW
Merry almost Christmas to all

 

[castine917]

Check price on shipping to you. Rockauto is $340. Tasca is $375. Summit is $406 or $495 but will price match too.

I used ShocksbyHammer for my rebuilds. I wanted the schrader valves which is something he can add. He has some other options too. I think I spent about $2100 going with him for all four shock/struts, schrader valves, geiser springs, shipping, repairs on my originals,,,,. Then I went to a shop on my road to install the geisers wrong(they closed shop shortly afterwards).

I have a video from Brian Diede on how to align struts, springs and caps. File is "too large" to upload here. I can try to message it to you if you want it.

 

[rschap1]

The used ones I saw had a schrader added to one of the rears.
Don't really know if I would be able to take advantage of that, especially since only one of the two has it added.
Really leaning more towards just getting new set, I guess...
but as cheap as I am we'll see as it gets closer.
Trying to wrench on a couple old John Deere tractors to keep the driveway plowed.

 

[Ruger]

Coilovers don’t work that way. The spring is captured by the shock body and top mount. If you were to remove the top nut on the shock stud while still in the vehicle the spring would shove the lower control arm down so tight that you would not be able to remove anything. Not to mention that the stored energy in that spring could kill you if not handled properly.

Removing the coilover assembly is not that difficult. Swapping springs is another story altogether. Without experience and proper tools it’s an accident waiting to happen.

Oh… anytime you change the suspension height, your alignment will be affected. In the case of going low to mid perch, the most noticeable would likely be that your steering wheel is off center a little due to a change in toe.

Bingo the danger. An old buddy of mine is an SAE certified mechanic. He was R&Ring a strut using the shop's commercial grade, wall-mounted spring compressor. The spring compressor malfunctioned, the spring launched, took a chunk out of his ear, and nearly removed his thumb. He worked the parts counter for weeks before he could resume his job as a mechanic. I had successfully done that work on an old Datsun B-210 sedan, but his experience convinced me. Never again.