Gen 3.52 R shutting down, like completely

[highway420]

Yes I agree.. OBD II did not work.. however.. thanks to Forscan, i now see plenty o codes.

i was able to clear all except the TCU.. which kept coming up as ' not available ..' and threw a code each time.

It has not done this since those two times, one day apart, but obviously don't want it to at all.

I have DL'd the codes for all here to read and help me understand what TF the truck did.

I do not think/feel it is the sPOD at this point, could be wrong, but hopefully the combined effort of armchair techs and experts alike can shed some light on this un godly event.

What is even stranger is the times/dates it has stamped these.. maybe this has been an issue that was festering.. ?

The PCM, ABS, and TCU had codes. I may have dated the file from when something noticeable happened, but the dates on the TCs are more than one day..

@FordTechOne any ideas from this data?

 

[FordTechOne]

@FordTechOne any ideas from this data?

Yes, the PCM set a DTC for the relay being de-energized too early and the ABS set DTCs for battery voltage and unexpected shutdown. I’d suspect a power or ground issue.

 

[highway420]

Yes, the PCM set a DTC for the relay being de-energized too early and the ABS set DTCs for battery voltage and unexpected shutdown. I’d suspect a power or ground issue.

Could removing the some of the shutters cause this? isn't there some kind of termination required for removing those or part of?
I will have to ask BDesigns next week about how they addressed the removal for the behind grill lights.. noticed that was part of the DTCs as well.

here's a random question.. I had helped someone jumpstart their car and the dude helping me went to hook up the cables.. the fkn battery on dead car had their wiring totally backwards.. as in red for - and black for +... so when 'dude' touched my battery, it sparked quickly.. didn't leave on of course, but could that have caused some havoc??

 

[FordTechOne]

Could removing the some of the shutters cause this? isn't there some kind of termination required for removing those or part of?
I will have to ask BDesigns next week about how they addressed the removal for the behind grill lights.. noticed that was part of the DTCs as well.

here's a random question.. I had helped someone jumpstart their car and the dude helping me went to hook up the cables.. the fkn battery on dead car had their wiring totally backwards.. as in red for - and black for +... so when 'dude' touched my battery, it sparked quickly.. didn't leave on of course, but could that have caused some havoc??

Yes, definitely. Simply touching the cables to the terminals when the polarity is reversed will damage modules, fuses, diodes, etc.

 

[highway420]

Yes, definitely. Simply touching the cables to the terminals when the polarity is reversed will damage modules, fuses, diodes, etc.

well that's great. good deeds.

How can I begin to determine if that has damaged anything? Truck was running when that happened, and nothing seemed to fault at that time.

As of now, it has not shut off. However, I did hear what I think is the hub noise on drivers side.. but it was only when I was in 4A this time. Have no idea if this is even remotely related at this point.

Is there something in Forscan that I can use to test any of the modules for this? if it was a fuse, then it would be more obvious I am assuming. Drive modes appear to be available. Park brake has not yelled at me since that night. And I am using it.

 

[highway420]

OK.. here's an update. Truck did another major shutdown last saturday night. threw another couple codes, however, it was only the bdy and headlight modules.. so thinking night time has something to do with it. Luckily, it happened while at a light about to go..as I was driving in sport for few minutes enjoying it and forgetting that it would have any issues.. well, it did it again but this time.. had some clicking noises and was not entirely shut 'off'..

fast forward to sunday.. in a 103 degree heat, i decided to do some inspecting.. I will spare everyone my sarcastic video showing and reminding people to always check the most basic things and start there. Sooo, with that said... I went to place a socket on the neg term of the battery thinking, well, I'll start by trying to clear some bugs/memory and start pulling some components that were recently installed. Well, as I was testing the ahem, nut.. I noticed that the terminal was not even tight.. in fact, loose. very loose. Wow.. Hmmm... I said... wonder if that could cause issues with this overly sensitive computer with a 700HP engine inside. I do not know for sure, but I am pretty hopeful that this was it.. kind of makes a bit of sense, except for the old days when you didn't need a battery once your vehicle was on. but maybe when the connection gets toggled constantly, and being the - side of a DC circuit..? So, crossing fingers on that..

So lesson for the day.. don't jump start anyone's car, unless you connect it.. and always, check on your battery connections for farts sake! (I really hope that was the gremlin.. )



Now on to the physical **** up the truck is doing..
there is a noise coming from underneath, that sounds like, i want to say, like the nubs of the tire rubbing ever so slightly on some plastic.. you all know what I am referring to. When we put those bad ass looking tires on and it doesn't quite 'fit' when you make a turn? LOL... but I have not changed wheels or tires or suspension params whatsoever..

here is a video with the noise i am hearing..
do not think its the hubs as i had lifted each tire off on sunday and tested each wheel in 4A, 4HI, and 2.. and listened to the mech sound like it worked. wheels connected to shafts and moved them while in 4A and transfer held when it was in 4HI.. and released when back to 2..
for some context, this seems to happen while turning a bit if not all the way, but even little.. which now is making me think of the torsion..? center clutch pac??

 

[highway420]

Is it possible the front diff has gone bad already? Just read someone else's story and it turned out dealer had to replace it.. if it was either hub, think the noise would be much different and louder, right? almost sounds like a bad u joint.. when my jeep had that issue, it sounded similar now that I think about it..
@FordTechOne please listen to the videos and let me know your thoughts on this.. thank you.

 

[shigman]

I was gonna ask if the battery terminals were tight....I guess the bad ground theory was correct.

 

[highway420]

I was gonna ask if the battery terminals were tight....I guess the bad ground theory was correct.

Yea.. great reminder to always check that for sure.. I was not the last one to work that.. but still no excuse. hopefully that will address that part.. now on to the noise, which worries me just as much if not more actually.. can I trust the 4wd system at this point? especially with all the power behind it now.. assault 'class' tells you how stout it is and how the 'only weak point is the 3rd member' .. well, think i may have found another spot..

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

well hope that solves your problem.

as far as the code reader, toss it.... those cheap outdated ones will not read vehicles past the time you bought it. and they are not updatable. i have a snap on ethos edge as my code reader. i can update the vehicle database every couple years ( bend over for the snap on guy) but in order to read codes on newer vehicles, you will need a new scanner/reader