Gen 2 SCAB makeover…totally not ripping off Geoff’s 2.5 build!

[91Eunos]

@full-race geoff can confirm the front driveshaft bolts are available from Ford at the parts counter:



$14 (-10% for my .mil discount) for each set of three bolts and the included girdle/bracket.

Also grabbed a complete set of 16 new head studs and bolts.

 

[mashtastic]

It’s a an Asian knockoff of the SPD with the same issues I pointed out above - and slightly worse fitment. Sorry if this comes off harsh, their r&d process consists of Rob & Duplicate so i don’t hold back

so port the SPD's to match the Garrett's is the perfect option? Have you tested the ported vs no ported on the dyno? personally, I am not looking for high hp numbers, just reliability with quality parts. with everything we've talked about within the two threads, I am estimating north of 600 hp with a lukewarm tune...which is fine going to dunkin'.......the lonnnng way

Sorry Eunos, you can have your thread back

 

[91Eunos]

Baby steps… got the RH side motor mount nuts removed, and have the radiator draining:





As soon as that’s finished, I’ll lower the truck and remove the battery. May as well get the radiator grill, radiator, oil cooler, etc. removed today too.

 

[91Eunos]

Battery, air filter assembly, etc. out and almost all connections disconnected…





But having a hell of a time getting the heater lines going into the firewall disconnected for some reason, so gonna call it a night before I get frustrated.

These little bastards:




Edit: Think I figured it out, but will need to get someone over to help. The manual shows to push in on the tab, and then pull the hose out from the firewall:



…but there are two tabs that need to be pushed in simultaneously, and they’re located 180* out from each other. I think I can have the truck lifted a few feet off the ground so someone can get underneath with a really long screwdriver (I have one) to push the bottom tab, and I’ll stand on a ladder to reach into the engine bay and push the top one.

There’s probably a special tool for this, kinda like the transmission connector, and fuel line tools, but not sure I need to buy a special tool for what I hope is a one time use.

 

[full-race geoff]

You have to physically push the fitting towards the firewall to unlock the tab. Spray silicone lubricant and wear a glove to forcefully move it around. If it has never been replaced it’s possible the oring is cooked into place and a good idea to replace the entire hose

 

[91Eunos]

You have to physically push the fitting towards the firewall to unlock the tab. Spray silicone lubricant and wear a glove to forcefully move it around. If it has never been replaced it’s possible the oring is cooked into place and a good idea to replace the entire hose

That’s exactly what I eventually figured out! Thanks again @full-race geoff



And these tools helped too:

 

[91Eunos]

Regardless, after cutting approximately 472,971 zip ties and going up and down with the lift half a dozen times, I believe I have all the wiring connections separated between what will go up with the cab, and what will remain with the chassis:



Complicating the endeavor was that large bundle of wires on top of the bracket where the RH headlight usually sits; that’s the wiring for my front bumper fog lights. Thank God Baja Design makes a well-integrated loom that just required me to unclip them from the lights, and route the loom back up into the engine bay.

Also took the running boards off to get easier access to the cab body seam pinch welds later:



Truck looks weird without them!

 

[91Eunos]

A bit out of sequence, but I also got this special tool to release the emergency brake; my truck’s an early 2018 MY, so it still has the mechanical brake:



Once I figured out how to use it, disconnecting took less than 30 seconds…key step is to pull as much slack as possible, and clamp the line off with some locking pliers first:



…easy peasy:

 

[91Eunos]

And if I’d thought more than one step ahead, I could have avoided removing the RH headlight to get to that a/c line behind the grill that has to be disconnected:



Since I’m swapping out the trans cooler and radiator, I went ahead and pulled the front grill:



Keen-eyed observers will note the body’s already raised a couple inches off the frame!



I stopped for the night though so I can crawl under there one last time in the morning to confirm everything is disconnected and routed properly to clear the cab as it goes up.

More to follow…