Gen 2 SCAB makeover…totally not ripping off Geoff’s 2.5 build!

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91Eunos

91Eunos

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Well, I’m sore as hell, and didn’t get as far as I wanted today, but should be ready to actually pull the transmission tomorrow.

Pulling the driveshafts was pretty straightforward, if a bit tedious. Also had the LH catalytic converter out by this point:

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And those stud/nuts holding on the trans heat shields suck..this one in particular can bite me, LoL:

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The connectors for the O2 sensors before and after the LH cat weren’t too much of a hassle, but since I’m also teeing up an engine pull, I did the RH side too. Well, at least one of them so far… I spent 1/2 hour trying to reach it there behind the cylinder head from the top, and then realized it was nicely aligned with the wheel well (the red connector), so I lowered the truck on the lift to get access:

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Did a few steps out of order since I’m also prepping for the engine pull next (and I still haven’t assembled the high lift trans jack yet LoL), so the trans support cross Member is still in place here.

Man, I hate transmission pans that don’t have a drain plug. What a mess:

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So basically a full days work to get to this point. I did also drain the engine and transfer case fluids, and wound up doing a lot of cleaning as I was working, so that slowed me down a bit too. Still, I’d never make a living as a mechanic…I’m far too slow!

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More to follow…
 
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One quick note… With the truck up on the lift, I noticed two of my tires were cut, one pretty badly:

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So I guess I’ll be switching back to 17’s sooner than planned. May just throw the stock rims back on…I actually really like the way they look, if not their quite heavy weight.

Would love to get some Inov8 wheels, but this project’s already over budget, and I haven’t even started! LoL

Maybe some Method’s as a compromise… I do really like the way those new 703s with the bead grip look:

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Note to self: If you ever meet the Ford engineer who decided to put the bolts that hold the heat shield that must be removed first in order to remove the exhaust, under the exhaust pipes that have to be removed so you have about 1/2” of clearance to remove a 3/4” long bolt, please give them a swift kick to the nuts.

That is all.

Edit: this little bastard:

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…and edit #2: apropos

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OK, it wasn’t pretty, but we got there.

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Amazing how much fluid comes out of a drained transmission when you pull the torque convertor! LoL

And the jack stands are just there to stabilize it until I drop it down to the pallet…waiting for my son and one of his friends to come over tonight for dinner, and afterwards they’ll help me move it; my back’s done for the day! LoL

I did have another of his friends come over for the actual drop, no way I was doing it solo with that cheap high lift (only 65” or so though) trans jack.

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In retrospect, I should have removed the transfer case, and/or removed the oil cooler lines before dropping the transmission; it was a pain getting the unit dropped down and able to clear everything fore and aft, even with a tilting head on the trans jack.

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Regardless, we got it done!

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Will build the crate around the trans mañana; scheduled for pickup Monday morning(ish) to be shipped to Tier1. And still need to get the rails hung to organize the Akro bins, as well as build the rolling shelving unit to store and organize stuff…only just begun and stuff’s already piling up.

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More to follow… Time for some “TNT”

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Tylenol and Tequila! Purely medicinal … :p

Edit: good job boys…
 
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Realized I only had two 2x4s after the local hardware stores were already closed, so had to get smart on the construction of the shipping “crate” to protect the transmission while it’s in transit.

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I can strap the transmission to the pallet, but need to protect the shafts and keep it from sliding side-to-side, and fore/aft. So I built a frame around it, with the pan lips up on the 2x4 pieces. All the wood is screwed together, and to the pallet with 3” decking screws.

I then built a frame over the bell housing, and an inverted “L” to protect the output shaft (it’s wrapped and taped too). Then ran two x 2K# load rated cargo straps over the body and tail.

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I just folded up the excess strapping and zip tied it to the pallet, but may just cut ‘em off after the ratcheting mechanism to clean up the look…I’m not expecting to get these back, LoL.

Will get a couple more pics in the morning… Freight handler expected between 10 AM and 15:00 local time.
 
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Just saw a fresh post on some more Method wheels for sale on this forum’s Garage Sale section if that works for you.
Responded in his for sale thread, and tried to PM him as well but I keep getting the “you cannot start a conversation with @Carlos M ” message. :shrug:

I’m not too far from his location…and was considering those 316s, even though I really like the 703s better.
 
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Just saw a fresh post on some more Method wheels for sale on this forum’s Garage Sale section if that works for you.

TY for the tip!

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Edit: so, C load range KO2s again, or the new KO3s in D load range?

Or maybe I’ll get nutty and use something like this to do a lightweight set for this round…just to see how it rides, and see what it does to fuel burn rates. Those Method 316s plus those Goodyear tires should come in at 82# or so with TPMS sensor and balancing weights.

And they’re not horrible looking tires either…

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…and should be gtg for the 95% street driving I’m doing lately. Need to do some research, read/watch some reviews, etc. before I decide though.

Can always build up a better set with Inov8 wheels and whatever the latest hotness is for rubber later in the year after I get the new engine broken in and confirm it’s reliable enough to take on a real offroad adventure.

Edit 2: weights for comparison

Cleaned up one of the ‘new’ Methods; this one had 3.75 oz of weights

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Method’s website says they weigh 26.18#; I assume that’s bare (no cap, hell, probably no paint), and without a valve stem.

I weighed this one 4 times on my super-calibrated bathroom scale, LoL :emotions33:

With the center cap, and a valve stem/cap, but no TPMS sensor I got 26.4# on the first test, but then back-to-back-to-back 25.6# readings on the next 3 tests.

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We’ll call it 26# for arguments sake. So assuming the 55# claim is accurate for those Goodyear MTs in 315/70-17, this potential wheel and tire combo should come in just under 82# with sensor and balancing weights…and air of course.

Compare that to my stock non-beadlock rims, which were right at 34# if I recall correctly. Plus a 65(ish) pound stock 35” tire, and we’re looking at 99# for the stock setup … probably closer to 100# or even quite a bit more with most aftermarket wheels, and most 35” tires that usually have a D or higher load rating.

Reducing rotating mass by 17# or more per corner is not insignificant… Pondering this seriously.
 
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