Gen 2 Converted Gen 1 CV Problems

[TomDirt]

The problem I'm facing is that G2 shocks on KHC buckets gives a G1 more uptravel, and switching to 0 offset Methods makes the track width wider... so if I really want to use the extra uptravel (even on 35's), I now need new front fenders to clear. If I ever want to run 37's, well that's just more dollas

 

[rschap1]

I am going on a couple years of needing to redo shocks BADLY.
Most of my reason for thinking Gen2 has been all the stories of just swapping to them and being "fine".
As far as my intended use, mostly daily on road driving with a few trips each summer to Silver Lake Sand Dunes. So, I would like to do that without destroying anything if I get a bit out of control. Knowing the buckets or Mira lowers are what is proper and correct, those are really more cost and labor than what I am after. Read LOTS of internet stories about putting stock Gen1 springs (which I would like to find Geisers when doing the replacement) and top mounts on Gen2s without any trouble. And I am guessing cruising the streets and Starbucks (I don't even drink coffee) would be fine. But my luck says 5 mph too fast through woops at the dunes would be WHOOPS for me. Same internet pros say rears OK without the raised brackets. Those I might swap if that was the only thing needed, but...buckets look like more cost and labor than I will get in return. I have been used to shocks that are only placeholders on the truck since I got it. I am sure that factory replacements will WOW me and I will be overwhelmed. Just hate to pass up an upgrade, especially at a lower cost if it is something easy and (like me) CHEAP

I had not thought about the extra preload on coils, only shortening the travel. My hope is either getting Geisers when I do finally replace shocks, or at least mid perch.
THANKS for the thoughts and input !

 

[TomDirt]

...buckets look like more cost and labor than I will get in return.

Truth bomb deployed. Prepare for detonation.

 

[rschap1]

There's no denying that I am cheap.
I know that usually doesn't go hand in hand with a Raptor, but...
my driving for a couple years on what are probably the original shocks (160,000+ miles) is awful telling too

 

[Gumby]

There's no denying that I am cheap.
I know that usually doesn't go hand in hand with a Raptor, but...
my driving for a couple years on what are probably the original shocks (160,000+ miles) is awful telling too

The most cost effective way to solve your problem.
#1 find someone In your area that can fill them with nitrogen. This is the key. look at HVAC guys they Carry it on their trucks.
#2 Get rebuild kit from Smitty Racing. The one with all the tools and shredder valves. I don't think it came with the tap. Like $292+tax You wlll Need a tap For the shredder valve. and the correct drill bit.
Like I said before if you can run a lathe. IMO you and rebuild a shock. I don't see a more cost effective way to get new ones 300 for the Kits 30 bucks for the tap and drill bit? even if the guy charged you 20 bucks a piece to charge them.80 bucks $410 to rebuild ALL 4 shocks. In 50K now you have Schrader valve and all the tools. it will cost you $60 bucks the next time + what ever the fill was.Witch IMO you should be able to find someone to do for $5 bucks each.

 

[New recaros]

The most cost effective way to solve your problem.
#1 find someone In your area that can fill them with nitrogen. This is the key. look at HVAC guys they Carry it on their trucks.
#2 Get rebuild kit from Smitty Racing. The one with all the tools and shredder valves. I don't think it came with the tap. Like $292+tax You wlll Need a tap For the shredder valve. and the correct drill bit.
Like I said before if you can run a lathe. IMO you and rebuild a shock. I don't see a more cost effective way to get new ones 300 for the Kits 30 bucks for the tap and drill bit? even if the guy charged you 20 bucks a piece to charge them.80 bucks $410 to rebuild ALL 4 shocks. In 50K now you have Schrader valve and all the tools. it will cost you $60 bucks the next time + what ever the fill was.Witch IMO you should be able to find someone to do for $5 bucks each.

Our welding supply store has the nitrogen

 

[Gumby]

Our welding supply store has the nitrogen

yes, but you will need a way to get it into the shock. You can get the regulator hose and finish gage from Smitty. I think all that is in the 280 range Not sure what a tank cost at your weld Suply Like $120 so another 400 so for $800 you could do all the shocks the first time. then $60 every time After that. well you will need oil.that is 55 bucks so $115 after that. Kinda did things like this.


Order my tool kit w gaskets and got 1 Gal with that
then ordered my regulator kit but bought 2 gal of oil with that. Free shipping
next order was for set to rebuild for someone else and I ordered an extra Gal oil free shipping
I Kept doing this. because the shipping of the oil is high. now I have a LOT of oil and to ship the o rings are cheep to ship.
This is the strategy that worked best for me.

 

[rschap1]

With the condition my shocks are in, plans are Rock Auto replacements if just sticking to stock.
Being in Michigan, the outside of these are pretty awful looking.
Most everything on all of them is corroded a lot.
Not much left, inside or out.
That is part of the thinking too.
I have seen a few cleaned up and painted, but even as cheap as I am I figure there isn't much left of the originals.
Needing cosmetic clean up, paint, decals?; and then the rebuild, mods, recharge....
Gets me to my next admission, LAZY and CHEAP too


I have always hoped to find some nice enough used ones to run, and missed a few deals that I regret not moving faster on. Even thoughts of it being more cost effective to move on and upgrade trucks altogether.
Seeing all the awesome Raptors around for sale tempts me from time to time.

 

[rschap1]

I know a couple local tire shops close to home have nitrogen.
Appreciate all the tips !! !! !!

 

[downforce137]

There's no denying that I am cheap.
I know that usually doesn't go hand in hand with a Raptor, but...
my driving for a couple years on what are probably the original shocks (160,000+ miles) is awful telling too

the only real solution is new coil buckets..or go back to gen1 shocks.

You have too much down travel, and while limit straps might bandaid the issue, you have lost up travel in the process..