Gen 1, hill descent control fault, service advance trac, check brake system

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gusser

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Really surprised your 3rd brake light wasn't the culprit - are you able to swap the unit out with another one (got a spare or maybe even junkyard or aftermarket?). All those symptoms were definitely screaming "3rd brake light," the price of a new OEM 3rd brake light skyrocketed several years ago, wonder if they're even still available...
My 2011 Screw's light was badly faded as my Gen1 was a work truck and spent most of it's time outside. I also have the rusted cab corners and the stains on the headliner due to the seal failing. I replaced it with this Morimoto B-ASY-X3B20-MM option.

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Looks pretty good on my Tuxedo black Gen1... :happy107:

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The gasket is very thick too and should keep it's seal for a long time, although she's a garage queen and won't see too much sun except when I drag my jetski to the lake or haul my RC aircraft to the flying field.

I ponied up the extra $25 for the flasher module. works great. Not sure what a new OEM replacement is now, but for $225 I feel it's a better option.
Good luck with your repair.
:cheers:
 

Bozz

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My 2011 Screw's light was badly faded as my Gen1 was a work truck and spent most of it's time outside. I also have the rusted cab corners and the stains on the headliner due to the seal failing. I replaced it with this Morimoto B-ASY-X3B20-MM option.

View attachment 485061
Looks pretty good on my Tuxedo black Gen1... :happy107:

View attachment 485062

The gasket is very thick too and should keep it's seal for a long time, although she's a garage queen and won't see too much sun except when I drag my jetski to the lake or haul my RC aircraft to the flying field.

I ponied up the extra $25 for the flasher module. works great. Not sure what a new OEM replacement is now, but for $225 I feel it's a better option.
Good luck with your repair.
:cheers:
I have the same one, also with the flasher module. Very happy with it and it looks GREAT.
 
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perry

perry

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Brake pressure is reading a steady 23,000 kpa with or without the brake pedal being actuated. I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected front speed sensors, cleared codes, all four wheels read speed now with no new wheel speed sensor codes. I think most everything is coming from the C116A-E0 ABS Pressure Transducer/Brake Switch Mismatch. It looks like the pressure sensor in the abs module lost its mind. So either the hydraulic pressure module or the electrical module that’s mated to it.
 

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Canuck714

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2012 SCREW just shy of 100 k miles, only mods are a Whipple with a Force tune, some Deavers and a rack of rigid lights. Out of the blue, while driving on road, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree with a Hill Descent Control Fault, Service Advance Trac, and Check Brake System. When checking for codes, there are none. There are no weird handling issues like antilock breaks activating etc. Immediately on start up it coughs up the hill descent fault and the service advance trac errors. Then after I move ~ 20-30’ in either forward or reverse it coughs up the check brake system. I’ve done a visual of the speed sensor connections on the front and rear, unplugged and plugged back in the front sensors, nothing notable to report. Third tail light is dry connections look brand new. About two weeks previous to the dash lighting up it did something strange in a parking lot. After reversing out of my parking spot, I shifted to drive and the tranny acted up. It was like it locked in a high gear, 4 th 5th or 6 th and would not kick down. I shifted to neutral, back to drive, no change. Drove approximately 100 yards to a stop sign at the exit of the parking lot were after the stop everything returned to normal. It’s never done anything like that in the past. The only other tranny related issue since new was a year or two ago, when attempting to aggressively pass, (full boost) on blacktop, instead of kicking down the tranny felt like it slipped or went to neutral for a split second. After getting out of the throttle then getting back into, it all issues went away.
I’m headed home from work tomorrow and have 2 weeks off to figure things out. I’ve a plan to start by checking Ohms on all four speed sensors as well as rotate the wheels to verify function of the speed sensor. Additionally I’ll check tranny fluid level just because. Then what? I thought I read a post where ford tech one said if a speed sensor fails it definitely will write a code, though some threads and some Google searches seem kind of gray on that. Is there any way it could be the lead frame, maybe one of the speed sensors on it and is there any way to test for that? Appreciate any suggestions. I’ve googled away some hours and don’t have much to show for it. Thanks in advance.
This sounds like you have a bad lead frame in the transmission.
When the solenoids get contaminated sometimes they will cause issues like this.
Also... check all of the body grounds.

My 2011 did this exact same thing. Can-Bus systems do not like having electrical interference
 
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