Fuse box fried...

[The Car Stereo Company]

I’m not at all doubting the knowledge here, just trying to truly understand the ramifications for each action.
Wouldn’t that make the whole circuit safer? As in if I were to reduce that switches fuse to a fuse that is closer to the loads requirements?

no, it does not make it safer. using your aux switches, you should have 2 fuses. the aux switch fuse is rated at the safe amount of current for that wire. it is to protect the wire. nothing more. the second fuse should be for your light relay harness (in this scenario) it is to protect the light. reducing the fuse in the aux switch is not necessary, and if you change it to a lower value, run the risk of blowing the fuse. lets take a 2006 honda accord for example because i know the headlight value is a 15amp fuse. when metered the high beam was 7-8amps. so why did honda put a 15 amp fuse and not a 10? its because there needs to be the cushion of power spike when the light first turn on. the vehicle voltage will aslo fluctuate depending on rpm, so with the additional current could very easily blow a fuse. now figure you were driving on a windy road in the mountains at night with no street lights and because you changed the value of the fuse to a lower one, it decides to blow. so here you are with no headlight at night stuck on a mountain. same goes for the aux switches. to low of a value will potentially cause the fuse to blow

 

[GordoJay]

I ran into this crap at the dealer on my’13, they tried to blame my led’s for the instrument cluster failure. First it was they drew too much power, then it went to the lights were back feeding the circuit, when I explained I had diode protected relays on both the + and - side, and it was impossible. Then he put it all on the tech, saying he the service writer wasn’t a mechanic. I told him if his tech told him that, he wasn’t a mechanic either.

Then came the day my new cluster was installed, I was then told my “aftermarket “ wheels caused it to go bad, I said dude, those are OEM. His response, well parts just fail sometimes....... da fuq is wrong with these people?

Calling dealers ****** is like calling the Mona Lisa a painting. I've been reading local reviews since my truck needs a new back up camera. Ford also gave me a free service contract as a result of one of their dealers ******** up, and I was thinking of having oil changed and the tires rotated for free while it was in. Somewhere other than the dealer that f-ed up. But it looks like they're all dirtbags. Every damn dealer, same stories, same issues. Just thinking about taking my truck to any of them fills me with dread. I'm seriously considering doing my own oil and tires and just living with the flaky backup camera. How messed up is that?

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Calling dealers ****** is like calling the Mona Lisa a painting. I've been reading local reviews since my truck needs a new back up camera. Ford also gave me a free service contract as a result of one of their dealers ******** up, and I was thinking of having oil changed and the tires rotated for free while it was in. Somewhere other than the dealer that f-ed up. But it looks like they're all dirtbags. Every damn dealer, same stories, same issues. Just thinking about taking my truck to any of them fills me with dread. I'm seriously considering doing my own oil and tires and just living with the flaky backup camera. How messed up is that?

Any member on FRF with over 1000 posts should know how to change his own oil and do tire rotations by now. Shit, replace the camera yourself, easier than changing the oil.

 

[GordoJay]

Any member on FRF with over 1000 posts should know how to change his own oil and do tire rotations by now. Shit, replace the camera yourself, easier than changing the oil.

I know how. I'm cheap. The fricking camera is the subject of a recall. I'd love it if Ford would send me one and let me do it myself. Getting gouged for a part that was defective to start with will really **** me off. On top of that, it's a crap camera compared to what I've seen in expensive high-quality vehicles such as the Subaru. Is there an upgraded aftermarket camera that drops in that will give me a decent image? At least then I wouldn't feel like I was getting ripped off. Oil change and rotation? For free? How badly could they mess that up? I hate the thought of letting them touch it and I hate the thought that they're coming out ahead financially because they made me feel that way. So I'm screwed either way. If it wasn't such a great vehicle to drive it would have been long gone by now. I'm kinda thinking that I'll let them hack on it and if they screw it up, I make Ford buy it back.

 

[FordTechOne]

I know how. I'm cheap. The fricking camera is the subject of a recall. I'd love it if Ford would send me one and let me do it myself. Getting gouged for a part that was defective to start with will really **** me off. On top of that, it's a crap camera compared to what I've seen in expensive high-quality vehicles such as the Subaru. Is there an upgraded aftermarket camera that drops in that will give me a decent image? At least then I wouldn't feel like I was getting ripped off. Oil change and rotation? For free? How badly could they mess that up? I hate the thought of letting them touch it and I hate the thought that they're coming out ahead financially because they made me feel that way. So I'm screwed either way. If it wasn't such a great vehicle to drive it would have been long gone by now. I'm kinda thinking that I'll let them hack on it and if they screw it up, I make Ford buy it back.

Legally they can't; the recall needs to be signed off by the dealer. That would be a nice option though if they could - Here's you're part, sign off on it, it's on you to install it. Have a great day.

If your image quality is as bad as a Subaru, the camera is definitely faulty. The image should be high res; even when I zoom in with mine it's very clear. Who is coming out ahead financially? Ford corporate absorbs the cost of the service contract even though the dealer screwed up; what some of these dealers get away with is criminal. Ford won't buy a vehicle back for damage caused by a dealer, but you'd certainly have a case against the dealership itself.

 

[GordoJay]

Legally they can't; the recall needs to be signed off by the dealer. That would be a nice option though if they could - Here's you're part, sign off on it, it's on you to install it. Have a great day.

I know that, and it makes sense. I make a hash of it, back over the neighbor kid, and it's their problem. Not good.

If your image quality is as bad as a Subaru, the camera is definitely faulty. The image should be high res; even when I zoom in with mine it's very clear.

That's good to know. It's the exact same quality as the two Ecosport loaners I had this summer, so I thought it was just a standard Ford 2020 camera that must be in everything. All three were/are fuzzy, low resolution, and with crappy color saturation. My wife's 2018 Subaru backup display looks like a cell phone photo. It's gorgeous. I notice how nice it is every time I drive her car.

Who is coming out ahead financially? Ford corporate absorbs the cost of the service contract even though the dealer screwed up; what some of these dealers get away with is criminal. Ford won't buy a vehicle back for damage caused by a dealer, but you'd certainly have a case against the dealership itself.

The dealer comes out ahead. It really irks me. They screw Ford, they screw customers, they come out way ahead. But at the end of the day, it's Ford's fault for not holding them accountable. FMC declined to post my review of Phil Long Chapel Hills on their website. If they're not willing to take even that mild step, then there's no hope that they're ever going to do something that's actually effective.

 

[isis]

no, it does not make it safer. using your aux switches, you should have 2 fuses. the aux switch fuse is rated at the safe amount of current for that wire. it is to protect the wire. nothing more. the second fuse should be for your light relay harness (in this scenario) it is to protect the light. reducing the fuse in the aux switch is not necessary, and if you change it to a lower value, run the risk of blowing the fuse. lets take a 2006 honda accord for example because i know the headlight value is a 15amp fuse. when metered the high beam was 7-8amps. so why did honda put a 15 amp fuse and not a 10? its because there needs to be the cushion of power spike when the light first turn on. the vehicle voltage will aslo fluctuate depending on rpm, so with the additional current could very easily blow a fuse. now figure you were driving on a windy road in the mountains at night with no street lights and because you changed the value of the fuse to a lower one, it decides to blow. so here you are with no headlight at night stuck on a mountain. same goes for the aux switches. to low of a value will potentially cause the fuse to blow

If you have a single accessory on an upfitter switch, changing the fuse to the recommended value for that accessory is perfectly acceptable as long as it is a lower value than what is specified for the switch.

it’s a valid suggestion if you don’t want a redundant fuse. If you argue that the accessory fuse should be closer to the accessory, i guess, but that’s really splitting hairs.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

I know that, and it makes sense. I make a hash of it, back over the neighbor kid, and it's their problem. Not good.



That's good to know. It's the exact same quality as the two Ecosport loaners I had this summer, so I thought it was just a standard Ford 2020 camera that must be in everything. All three were/are fuzzy, low resolution, and with crappy color saturation. My wife's 2018 Subaru backup display looks like a cell phone photo. It's gorgeous. I notice how nice it is every time I drive her car.



The dealer comes out ahead. It really irks me. They screw Ford, they screw customers, they come out way ahead. But at the end of the day, it's Ford's fault for not holding them accountable. FMC declined to post my review of Phil Long Chapel Hills on their website. If they're not willing to take even that mild step, then there's no hope that they're ever going to do something that's actually effective.

come north to groove ford off arapahoe in south denver. they were the ones who fixed my 4wd issue after 98k miles and just about to have my extended warranty expire.

 

[Foxcroft007]

I do have an update on the original topic. Deal patched things up so I could make it home. $350 he said that t
It would not be covered by warranty. He said there are 2 10mm nuts in the battery junction box. 1 was very loose and causing arching which melted part of the wire harness. He said I need to replace the BJB and wire harness fir $2,100. No warranty coverage. Complete bs if you ask me. I’ve never touched and wiring in the truck other than upfitter switches and a ground lug. Nothing inside or even near the fuse box.

I opened the hood to see if I could see anything burned and I can’t. What I did see where two of my lights were disconnected bare power wires exposed. When I took it to the dealer there were working just fine so that annoyed me as well.

the only issue I’ve had with the truck was car phaser. Wonder if the bolt could have been loosened at that time.

at any rate. I suspect the trucks days are numbered. There are too many good cars/trucks out there to deal with my marginal truck. I’ve had gt350, f250 6.7 and never problems like this.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

I do have an update on the original topic. Deal patched things up so I could make it home. $350 he said that t
It would not be covered by warranty. He said there are 2 10mm nuts in the battery junction box. 1 was very loose and causing arching which melted part of the wire harness. He said I need to replace the BJB and wire harness fir $2,100. No warranty coverage. Complete bs if you ask me. I’ve never touched and wiring in the truck other than upfitter switches and a ground lug. Nothing inside or even near the fuse box.

I opened the hood to see if I could see anything burned and I can’t. What I did see where two of my lights were disconnected bare power wires exposed. When I took it to the dealer there were working just fine so that annoyed me as well.

the only issue I’ve had with the truck was car phaser. Wonder if the bolt could have been loosened at that time.

at any rate. I suspect the trucks days are numbered. There are too many good cars/trucks out there to deal with my marginal truck. I’ve had gt350, f250 6.7 and never problems like this.

The fuses for the upfitter switches are in there, that means the wiring goes in there as well, not saying you're additional wiring went in there, but it is run is series with your wiring to be protected. If you didn't protect your end of the wiring properly, it could of led to additional wiring being compromised. Not saying the dealership isn't ******* you over, but if you had a better understanding of how wiring works, it could sway your opinion of the repair process. Good luck either way.