Full Rebuild Advice: Engine, Drivetrain, Suspension $60k budget

[Jayford]

once you understand your engine build and power adder specifics, talk with a converter manufacturer, recommend circle D, about your specific goals and motor/truck specifics, and see what they recommend for a torque converter... i think you'll find they'll recommend a 2500-2700 (at most) rpm stall assuming your going to run big boost on a low compression motor with aftermarket/regrind cams...

Yup... what Bubblehead said.
I believe you want to talk to Brian at Circle D.. he is a Raptor guy and knows our trucks pretty well.
Look at the drag race parts for the 6R800 if you think you will be makinging over 800 hp. Outside of Xedey HD clutch packs the trans doesnt need much.
I rebuilt mine with all the HD clutch stuff but at the time didnt know about the Circle D. Ran it hard for 4-5 years without issue and I was making 640hp (at the crank)

Thanks guys. I will check out Circle D. My goal is to get close to get at least 700hp at the crank and closer to 800hp at the crank. First recommendation I got was 3000 on the stall and I did think that was high. I had 2800 on a nitrous Mustamg Mach 1 and that was almost too high for daily driving. I'm not a collector, if I put money into it I will use it. The truck will see 50-60% daily driving.

 

[nick0331]

Good luck dealing with Livernois. I swapped their 6.6 in mine and have had all types of valve train issues. Ordered the crate 6.6 from them and had a high end shop here install it.
1st was the drivers side cam phaser was lose directly from them and chewed up the phaser limiter. They replaced the part but didn’t cover any labor, on a brand new motor with zero miles on it.
2nd issues was we had multiple rocker arms fail. Over the course of 6 months had to replace all of them twice till we found the latest mod from Ford mod4, that has corrected the issue. There is no different part number or stamp to differentiate, just luck of the draw. I was out of pocket several grand chasing those down.
3rd issue happening right now, is another failed phaser due to the limiter being chewed up and breaking apart. Causing multiple misfires along the way. I asked Liv to replace it, and over night the part (as they did the previous time) got no answer for 2 days and then a ground shipping notification. Asked the POC if they’d cover the labor on this since it’s the second time. He said he’d ask but doubtful.
In summary, I like the motor, makes great power even without a power adder. The bored and stroked block has been flawless, the valve train, not so much. I’d be sure to clarify what they’ll be covering under warranty, hopefully more since you’re getting it done there. Let you know what they say about my valve train issue.

 

[Canuck714]

THIS ^^^^
This is why I asked if you have done your research before spending $ at Livernois. Sound familliar to the way my buddy was handled after dropping $20k with them.

 

[bubblehead93]

The Raptor Takes Flight - Engine Builder Magazine

In an age when kids would rather hot rod their computers than their cars, it’s kind of amazing that old fashioned hot rodding still exists – even thrives in today’s society. Related Articles - Expanding Beyond the Engine to Powertrain - Travel a New Road to AAPEX this Season - Randy Breaux...

www.enginebuildermag.com

QUOTE
To get the ball rolling for its internal Raptor upgrades, Livernois starts with improvements to the block. Thanks to its thick cylinder walls the block can be bored and honed .065?, resulting in a final 4.080? bore size. The new pistons are manufactured by JE with a ceramic coating and offered by Livernois in a choice of two compression ratios: 9.5:1 or 11:1. The connecting rods are made by Manley in a stock length forged H-beam design.

The crankshaft is then offset ground to achieve a stroke of 3.82?, giving the new Raptor version a 6.6L or 400 cubic inch displacement.
UNQUOTE

So 6.6 is 400 cui, the 4.080 bore takes the 379 cui motor out to 392 cui and the weld/offset grind takes it to 400 cui (or so)...

The 6.6L short block is $8500...

or you could go your own path...

Custom Diamond pistons (4.080 bore w/pin bore for Manley rods) based on their off-the-shelve piston for the 6.2 motor $1427.54 to your door (10.9:1 pistons, rings, and pins)
Manley Connecting Rods (stock length) $1586.80 to your door
ARP Main and Cylinder head studs $897.71 to your door
Lets say $1000 to bore and align hone the block, clean up the crank, balance the reciprocating assembly
Another $200-250 or so for the main and rod bearings
Lets say another $350-500 if you pay someone to assemble the motor...

So a 392 cui big bore short block should cost you about $5460-5660 or so, lets call it $6000 just for anything unforeseen...

After another $2200 to make bolt-on ready a pair of pocket ported/blended heads
and $809 to my door for a DCR Raptor cam re-grind...

The point is, you can put together a really stout, admittedly only 392 cui vice 400 cui, long block for what a short block from livernois will cost you...

I know I'm forgetting a few things, billet oil pump and stuff, but the point stands... there is value and quality out there...

 

[toggle1]

The Raptor is a large vehicle so in most collisions your kid will be safe. Keep it stock engine wise and put bigger brakes on it.

Kid will be safe for the most part. Other people involved as well as your personal assets? Not so safe

 

[agdaniels]

This isn't the sexy opinion, especially with all of the motor work being discussed, but I would set aside a portion of the budget for paint protection and underbody treatment. Even in a no/low salt area there will be wear with time, and it looks like you intend to keep this truck for the long haul.

 

[Canuck714]

The Raptor Takes Flight - Engine Builder Magazine

In an age when kids would rather hot rod their computers than their cars, it’s kind of amazing that old fashioned hot rodding still exists – even thrives in today’s society. Related Articles - Expanding Beyond the Engine to Powertrain - Travel a New Road to AAPEX this Season - Randy Breaux...

www.enginebuildermag.com

QUOTE
To get the ball rolling for its internal Raptor upgrades, Livernois starts with improvements to the block. Thanks to its thick cylinder walls the block can be bored and honed .065?, resulting in a final 4.080? bore size. The new pistons are manufactured by JE with a ceramic coating and offered by Livernois in a choice of two compression ratios: 9.5:1 or 11:1. The connecting rods are made by Manley in a stock length forged H-beam design.

The crankshaft is then offset ground to achieve a stroke of 3.82?, giving the new Raptor version a 6.6L or 400 cubic inch displacement.
UNQUOTE

So 6.6 is 400 cui, the 4.080 bore takes the 379 cui motor out to 392 cui and the weld/offset grind takes it to 400 cui (or so)...

The 6.6L short block is $8500...

or you could go your own path...

Custom Diamond pistons (4.080 bore w/pin bore for Manley rods) based on their off-the-shelve piston for the 6.2 motor $1427.54 to your door (10.9:1 pistons, rings, and pins)
Manley Connecting Rods (stock length) $1586.80 to your door
ARP Main and Cylinder head studs $897.71 to your door
Lets say $1000 to bore and align hone the block, clean up the crank, balance the reciprocating assembly
Another $200-250 or so for the main and rod bearings
Lets say another $350-500 if you pay someone to assemble the motor...

So a 392 cui big bore short block should cost you about $5460-5660 or so, lets call it $6000 just for anything unforeseen...

After another $2200 to make bolt-on ready a pair of pocket ported/blended heads
and $809 to my door for a DCR Raptor cam re-grind...

The point is, you can put together a really stout, admittedly only 392 cui vice 400 cui, long block for what a short block from livernois will cost you...

I know I'm forgetting a few things, billet oil pump and stuff, but the point stands... there is value and quality out there...

@bubblehead93 I remember us talking about some parts that may work from the Godzilla motor. It appears you are correct, the 7.3 does share the same bore spacing so it will drop into our block. Just have to figure out the front snout to run the oil pump...lol

Still waiting to hear back on how to run the 7.3 in our trucks with the Gen 1 version of the CanBus system.