Full Race's "Gen 2.5" Raptor build

[RaceUV]

Let’s be real guys. We just need Geoff to buy a 5-axis CNC machine and get to work. Nothing major.

 

[Sharpie69]

Nice! Will that bolt right into a 2017 Raptor without all of the other stuff you’re doing?

The part number on that website for a 2017 transmission is different (below) and is nearly $5000.

JL3Z-7000-L​

I'm curious as well, did you ever get an answer about this

 

[mashtastic]

For those who were talking about machined valve covers....

https://www.f150ecoboost.net/threads/my-never-ending-build-thread.14477/page-183#replies

Also look at pages 170 and 177
I knew RMB did something like that with an intake.

 

[full-race geoff]

Friday afternoon update:



Gen 3 front suspension is loosely in




Front diff has a brace on the top mount and raptor R bushings installed


along with the about-to-be trimmed B&M front diff cover


2024+ raptor R axles, with the rcv iwe delete. Supposedly the RL3V axles are stronger. Externally they visually look similar to Gen 2, although did not have time to measure for differences


Painted the rcv with STEEL IT. I actually think I prefer the Dorman due to the oem style seal

It’s amazing how fast a truck comes apart and how slowly it goes back together

 

[thatJeepguy]

Running it without torsen ?

 

[full-race geoff]

Yes I put a Torsen in, oem ford performance with 4.88 Yukon gears

 

[thatJeepguy]

Yes I put a Torsen in, oem ford performance with 4.88 Yukon gears

Nice choice . Almost everyone skips the re-gear.

 

[full-race geoff]

Lots of good stuff going on at Full-Race. Engine startup was uneventful. I love seeing the oem 5 link and gen 3 front suspension geometry under the gen 2



Still have a bunch of work to do before she drives. Will make another post with details and photos in a couple days

 

[dillard09]

Nice choice . Almost everyone skips the re-gear.
View attachment 487878

I was just talking to Winfield the other day about a regear. I have 37 as well. When cruising at 70-75 I lock it out in 9th cause it can't hold the speed in 10th. It loses speed and then downshift to 8th. So I cruise in 9th and if I see and bigger hill I just manual down to 8th. My pinion seal is leaking so will have to repair that someday and was thibking of doing a regear while it was in. I like the thought of 4.88 but I have a tad bit of drone from 2k-2.5k. And also not sure if 4.56 would make that much of a difference. I would gain another 2-300 rpms. Thoughts?

 

[thatJeepguy]

I was just talking to Winfield the other day about a regear. I have 37 as well. When cruising at 70-75 I lock it out in 9th cause it can't hold the speed in 10th. It loses speed and then downshift to 8th. So I cruise in 9th and if I see and bigger hill I just manual down to 8th. My pinion seal is leaking so will have to repair that someday and was thibking of doing a regear while it was in. I like the thought of 4.88 but I have a tad bit of drone from 2k-2.5k. And also not sure if 4.56 would make that much of a difference. I would gain another 2-300 rpms. Thoughts?

Thats a good question. From 4.10-4.56 isn't a huge jump. But will likely get you 10th back. When gearing up you have to consider your priorities and usage case. The more aggressive play is 4.88 If you want more low end grunt to climb and tow and just overall have more snap off the line, run a lot of sand and want more wheel speed? go 4.88. It will be at the expense of some fuel milage and higher rpm’s on the highway( or as you mentioned drone). 4.56 is a bit more mild, basically restores final stock ratio to lock out in 10th. Fuel milage might actually improve. But idk what your goals are.