Full Race's "Gen 2.5" Raptor build

[91Eunos]

…also, I am pretty handy/mechanically inclined, and also a (retired) engineer, but I haven’t R&R’d a motor or transmission in years… And don’t really have the friend/fellow motor head network in place here at our new place to consider just diving in… But may do so anyway! LoL

 

[full-race geoff]

I’m in New Braunfels, TX… Just NE of San Antonio.

In your area is one of our former employees from Full Race, he now runs https://calvo-motorsports.com/ - an accomplished engine builder/installer. I can put you in touch with him if that helps

…also, I am pretty handy/mechanically inclined, and also a (retired) engineer, but I haven’t R&R’d a motor or transmission in years… And don’t really have the friend/fellow motor head network in place here at our new place to consider just diving in… But may do so anyway! LoL

there is nothing quite like doing a project like this yourself. The key is you must have a lift and can take the cab off. its really not terrible if you have the time, the space and mechanical aptitude. im going to try and put together a writeup on how to do it at some point

 

[letsgetthisdone]

Thanks for the write up I’m knee deep into my cam phaser repair. Was installing the updated phasers when I noticed the cause of the rattle initially.

The pin that goes in the notch completely sheered off. Causing damage the the cam shaft notch.

Looks like I need new cams. I’m curious if there’s any other further damage as I heard a snapping noose in the rear while turning the cams. Possible valve spring?

Any aftermarket recommendations if needing replacement? If it can happen this time it can happen again if I’m pushing more power…

Not to threadjack, but this damage looks like a loose bolt. Those pins don't fail like that. Just like a wheel/hub interface, what holds the gear in place is the friction of the mating surfaces/clamping force of the bolt. The pin is mostly a locater for assembly, and doesn't take much load.

 

[91Eunos]

In your area is one of our former employees from Full Race, he now runs https://calvo-motorsports.com/ - an accomplished engine builder/installer. I can put you in touch with him if that helps


there is nothing quite like doing a project like this yourself. The key is you must have a lift and can take the cab off. its really not terrible if you have the time, the space and mechanical aptitude. im going to try and put together a writeup on how to do it at some point

Funny you should mention that! We did just recently complete a detached garage build, with 16’ top plates on the walls specifically to install a lift:



I was going to do a 4-post lift with two jacking beams so I can store my track car, and still do tire swaps, brake jobs, etc., but now thinking about doing a 2-post so I can get back into wrenching a bit more. I think I’d have to use a 2-post to remove the cab from the frame…that would make the engine and transmission (and turbos, etc.) super easy to do.

Would still like to talk to your former colleague since I’d prefer to have the actual engine build done by someone with more experience than me! I’m well-versed on basic sub-system R&R, and still do all my own basic maintenance, but haven’t built an engine in over 20 years. Have never rebuilt a transmission…have always let a specialist do that. A man’s gotta know his limitations!

Now I just need to figure out whether or not I want to just buy a new engine and transmission and do a simple swap, or pull mine to have them both rebuilt.

 

[full-race geoff]

That is a great work area for a project like this. You could leave the truck running as-is and get a longblock together. Then swap it when you’re ready

There are pros and cons to building a used motor vs building a new motor. I’ve had good and bad experiences both ways. If new, buying a bare block $900, bare crank $200, oil pump $500, etc from ford. There are a number of cylinder head deals out on eBay, Send the heads off to head games for GSC springs and retainers, SI valves is my plan. then have a machine shop bore/hone/clean/assemble with gen3 crank and there are options for bearings, pistons, rods valves as you see in the aftermarket. I’m planning to do a deep dive on all that at some point

If you wanted to start with a salvage motor, I think a 2021 Lincoln Navigator is probably the best starting point. It may have the updated gen3 br3z phasers lifters and rollers (but not the guides or tensioners). Also You can learn a lot if you take your time during engine tear down.

 

[TheClaw]

Not to threadjack, but this damage looks like a loose bolt. Those pins don't fail like that. Just like a wheel/hub interface, what holds the gear in place is the friction of the mating surfaces/clamping force of the bolt. The pin is mostly a locater for assembly, and doesn't take much load.

It locks the cam phaser in place without it would spin freely.

It’s up to you how much you want to do while you’re in there for the phasers. in my experience this is primarily a labor expense more than parts cost so you may want to purchase new parts

a high performance twin turbo engine getting reassembled with the old outdated and worn internals isn’t the best idea if you’re planning to keep the truck long term

if you had a crankshaft failure - a purely speculative guess puts the odds on a bad harmonic balancer. If you have access to the engine take a photo of the crank pulley and post it

I’m still on the fence about the ATI or OEM. After inspection everything looks good. Let’s just say I caught it before further damage. Don’t know how this failed.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Have to admit I'm lazier these days. I want an EASY single bolt on and forget it option vs. ATI.

 

[letsgetthisdone]

It locks the cam phaser in place without it would spin freely.

Thats not really how that works. That pin may "help", but if the bolt wasn't loose, it would not shear, it is primarily for timing the engine. I guarantee you the bolt wasn't torqued properly even if it didn't feel "loose". A lot of engines don't even have that pin, and require special timing tools to line everything up in time, and rely entirely on the friction of the mating surface.

I'm just trying to help you man, especially if you did/are doing the work yourself. Get a quality set of torque wrenches and follow the factory repair procedure. Especially the torque on the phaser bolts as it's kind of silly-

Stage 1: 40 Nm
Stage 2: Loosen: 360°
Stage 3: 25 Nm
Stage 4: 150°

 

[full-race geoff]

Going to be a busy weekend!

 

[full-race geoff]

Axle was in good shape - A broken elocker bulkhead was the only casualty.



I had some fun figuring out the electronic parking brake and plan to retrofit that in place of my cable. Axle now has 3/16” 4130 gussets everywhere:


I carefully stitch welded and reinforced and gussetted the front of the frame ( I plan to add more later)



It helped having @GooseTuned gen 3 on the lift next to my gen 2





Measuring back and forth between the trucks helped to answer many of my questions.

Fyi’s: Gen 3 wheel bearings are much larger than gen2. The gen3 spindle is also unique to acccomodate the eIWE. Therefore I will plan to use my gen2 spindles/hubs/iwe at least for now. This will necessitate the taller misalignment spacer and longer bolt

The 2017 and early 2018 with cable parking brake caliper has a smaller bolt spacing than the later ePB caliper.

The electronic parking brake caliper works by +12V closes brake caliper, and -12V opens the brake caliper. I love it! Not sure how I’m going to set it up quite yet, but I am intrigued at the possibilities

Gen3 diff is noticeably lower and the cv axle angle is substantially improved