Ford Raptor Fuel Pump Fuse Issue

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HAP

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I just did my on today. I was pretty annoyed at the instructions though. They make it more confusing than it really is. The wire colors are inconsistent with the directions... Basically needs to say: cut the 12 gauge Blu/Rd wire from fuse #27, cap Blu/Rd wire left in place, solder/crimp new Blk wire to Blu/Rd wire, insert fuse terminal blade of new Blk wire in slot #70. Replace all the stuff removed and insert fuse. Test.
 

Bigeffr

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My 2013 is at the dealer with this same issue. They are ordering the kit and installing it
today. All of this is under warranty but the sad part was watching the flat bed pull up my street with my Raptor on it in the middle of a snow storm yesterday.
 

Shortbusdriver

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I think I had the first indication that mine will most likely be affected by this the other day. I had a crank no start, but I started with the fuel pump relay, pulled and reinserted and it clicked. Fired right up and no problems since. I just read through this entire thread and I will have to check #27 when I get home.

Now I just to decide to do it myself or take it to the dealer.

edit: its a 2013 with 43K.

2nd edit: are the kits still back ordered or do most dealers have them in stock?
 

Yukon Joe

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I think I had the first indication that mine will most likely be affected by this the other day. I had a crank no start, but I started with the fuel pump relay, pulled and reinserted and it clicked. Fired right up and no problems since. I just read through this entire thread and I will have to check #27 when I get home.

Now I just to decide to do it myself or take it to the dealer.

edit: its a 2013 with 43K.

2nd edit: are the kits still back ordered or do most dealers have them in stock?
I would call the dealer and see if they would install it for you and how much it may cost. If they do the work, it is warranted for two years (I think).

The kits seem to be available now.

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Juiced4ever

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Well I had it happen twice, long cranks no fire, would always fire up the second or third time I tried. Today saw this thread, went out and looked and low and behold. Fuse was blown up, came out in two pieces. Put a new fuse in there and it fired right up. Have a handful of them till I can get in and get it fixed. UGH

Oh 2013 Screw with 58k on the clock
 

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Shortbusdriver

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OK well mine is melted. Not as bad as some, and the box is still good. Problem is that I called my dealer and they don't show that TSB or part number. I also looked on the nhtsb website and it doesn't show it either. Does anyone know if they changed the number.

I found the part on tasca parts so I will probably just end up doing it myself.

I love this site!!!
 

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Hiapo510

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I did mine myself today, I had no signs of it being bad. But did it just to be on the safe side. It took less than an hour.


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R1jamn

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I too installed the relocation kit today.
This is certainly doable for the DIY crowd.
It was a bit of pain in the A$$.
Luckily everthing is front and center and accessible.

Fuse #27 on my raptor was healthy.
It did not have any melting, burning or discoloration.
Just making sure this won't be an issue in the future.

Take your time on this one.
Be sure to lay out some aluminum foil around the engine bay before you start soldering.
Don't go crazy. Just the immediate area with a bowl shape to catch any solder.

Aluminum%20Foil%20for%20Soldering_zps7ax1zfki.jpg

Solder%20for%20Fuse%20Relocation_zpspq23f1ig.jpg
 
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