Ford engineers have sick sense of humor. Oil change

[GordoJay]

Fumoto valve works the balls- I left like 8” or so of plastic tubing attached to the drainage nipple & you can reach the valve w/ a good solid long flat head screwdriver to open/close oil change easy peasy

Agreed. Pay attention to the position and orientation of the plastic retaining clip if you want it to go back on without fiddling. Ask me how I know.

 

[BigTaco]

I have the Ford Performance skid plates. Not fun. Makes an oil change with the stock skids look great. My local dealer makes it a breeze; they use a form-a-funnel when the wheels are off (as part of the works package) for rotation and change the oil without any mess.

 

[SCAR911]

For the plastic oil pan, I don’t think so. Same thread and part # for the Explorer 3.5.

Ronin sells a valve for the plastic oil pan.

Damn. Forgot about the plastic.

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

Yeah no mess , the cutout I made on trans skid plate worked. Good amount of room to swing wrench for the drain plug too . Little bit of black iron on drain plug magnet. No more dribbling into skid plate. Cut filter open little bit of iron on oil filter magnet . Nothing big or shiny so that's good.

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

I fill to 6 1/2 quarts and I lose a minute amout of oil between changes with motul 5w40 oil . I would guess only 1/2 ounce oil in full race catch can between changes . I check every couple weeks get about 10 drips into a paper towel each time. I made my own mark on dipstick at 6 1/2 quarts it drops only a hair below by time I do the next oil change. Not like motorcraft 5w30 I was always adding half quart at 1200 miles stuff seemed to just evaporate in summertime.

 

[Jonesky]

Just fyi if unknown:
Amazon sells a flexible drain tool funnel you can put underneath your drain plug. It works great for me when I change my oil.

Amazon.com : cyantor flexible draining tool funnel

Almost zero mess and easy clean up. I haven’t felt the need for fumoto with this. I also have an extra drain plug and skid plate bolts on hand if needed.

 

[Badgertits]

I fill to 6 1/2 quarts and I lose a minute amout of oil between changes with motul 5w40 oil . I would guess only 1/2 ounce oil in full race catch can between changes . I check every couple weeks get about 10 drips into a paper towel each time. I made my own mark on dipstick at 6 1/2 quarts it drops only a hair below by time I do the next oil change. Not like motorcraft 5w30 I was always adding half quart at 1200 miles stuff seemed to just evaporate in summertime.

Why did you go w/ 5w40 over 5w30? Just curious, I’m not an “oil snob” but I do use Amsoil in all my vehicles so maybe by default I am an oil snob lol!

I stuck w/ 5w30 weight but use their top of the line “signature series” full synthetic w/ all the additives

Also not seeing any measurable oil consumption between changes, using a JLT catch can getting like 1-2 tablespoons worth maybe every 5k miles

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

Watch the Amsoil videos with Gale Banks on Youtube lots of good info. They show whatever weight oil you put in shears down pretty fast to next weight down then the viscosity returns over time . Plus the 100% synthetic flashpoint is higher. I like the Motul gear oil and brake fluid so i decided on the 5w40 its made for small displacement higher HP engines. Being tuned , running the snot out of it , and Higher arizona heat , narrow rod bearings , was my decision . I ran 5w40 in tuned and modded 2014 Tremor for 35,000 miles never had a issue . If i was still all stock i would be running 5w30. Next oil change before summer will be 5w50.

28 min mark to end most interesting about 5w30. 37min mark graph talks about shear

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

I'm going to do a blackstone test i think next oil change 30,000 miles gen2 and 100,000 miles Gen 1.

 

[8250_RPM]

Has anyone relocated the oil filter? I’m seriously considering this as this is the part of the oil change process that is most frustrating. I spend way too much time trying to get it out.