Ford engineers have sick sense of humor. Oil change

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itsrichierich

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That’s real sexy!

I think the Fumoto is an easier solution for the DIY weekend warrior. I slip a length of hose over the nipple and open the valve. IMO the ball valve has more integrity than the spring loaded valve.

I noticed the weep of oil around the valve on that Raptor.

View attachment 386032
We were able to pass BMW's crash test with our drain plug since it's the same size as an OEM plug without the sealing cap. The sealing cap adds another 3mm. It was seeping in that shot because I opened and closed it a few times. But if you noticed the initial shot, it was clean.

We have a DIYer friendly version here:

I am working with Subaru North America on getting this implemented into their program since they are trying to roll out a nation wide "Mobile Service". If this goes through, I should be able to afford a Raptor R :p
 
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1BAD454SSv2

1BAD454SSv2

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just now came across this, live in FL so have temps close to yours, my oil generally goes between 190-205, and my oil pressure generally idles around 22psi once warmed up.
Factory motorcraft oil and amsoil same-ish result. Wonder why theres a diff
Hot idle should bump it up to 29ish . I'm usually at 31 32 hot idle then drops to 23 24 steady driving. Cold idle will be 23psi till oil temp gets to 165 deg. You should see it pop up every time you come to a stop when oil is hot. Then of course 70 plus psi under load. I plan on going to 5 w50 motul in summer time.
 

SCAR911

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I have the F107SX but I’m switching to the F137N. The latter has a longer nipple to attach a hose.

No drain pan - the oil goes right into an empty container for recycling.
Looks like they have nothing for a 2017. Wonder why
 

Space Ghost

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Hot idle should bump it up to 29ish . I'm usually at 31 32 hot idle then drops to 23 24 steady driving. Cold idle will be 23psi till oil temp gets to 165 deg. You should see it pop up every time you come to a stop when oil is hot. Then of course 70 plus psi under load. I plan on going to 5 w50 motul in summer time.
Its almost the opposite on my end, steady driving and warm idle have the same oil pressure, my cold idle is 30. Same psi under load. 5w50 isnt too thick for the engine, only asking cause ive been debating swapping to 0w40 myself.
 
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1BAD454SSv2

1BAD454SSv2

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Its almost the opposite on my end, steady driving and warm idle have the same oil pressure, my cold idle is 30. Same psi under load. 5w50 isnt too thick for the engine, only asking cause ive been debating swapping to 0w40 myself.
What year is your truck? Mine is a 19 I know its in the programing for the oil pressure to bump up at hot idle then drop when moving. Then go full pressure under load. So far truck is liking 5w40 ,7000 miles now since changing. Going 5w50 for arizona heat and being tuned. Roush recommends 5w50 for their tuned ecoboost and the Ford GT supercar recommends 5 w50 and it uses same exact cam phasers and vvt solenoids as us.
 

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TOBTEK

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Changed the oil 4 times on my truck and have always used the same clips without stripping either the bolts or clips (hand start first, then use a clicker wrench or impact). Not sure what you mean by non-reusable.

Total 1st timer error. Was the wrong access panel. Ez job when ya look in the right hole….. lol.
 
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1BAD454SSv2

1BAD454SSv2

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Pictures I took this morning hot idle in drive 31psi , 32-33 in N or P . Driving steady 22 -23psi and under a little boost 71psi+ depending on rpm . Ambient temperature today is 50 deg . I don't get into any boost until oil is 180deg . 150 if traffic is being stupid. I usually don't go full throttle till i see oil pressure swing up to full pressure then game on. I roll into wot rather than just slamming the hammer down
 

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Badgertits

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Fumoto valve works the balls- I left like 8” or so of plastic tubing attached to the drainage nipple & you can reach the valve w/ a good solid long flat head screwdriver to open/close oil change easy peasy
 
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