First Gen 1 Issue I’ve had..

[KODIAK]

The saga continues. After the dealership visit I was talking about, the lead frame and valve body was replaced on transmission. The shifting issues seemed to go away after this, but truck still had a rough idle at times and periodically fall on its face on accelerating after traffic light. I ended up replacing my Optima Battery and MAF sensor. I continued to have running issues, but transmission seems to be okay. Then a few weeks later truck fell on its face again and went into limp mode only allowing me to go 3mph. I was able to pull a couple codes off my scanner and it showed a bad actuator in throttle body. Towed it to dealership. Took them a week to find a replacement. Keep in mind a nice BBK throttle body with a larger mm would cost me about $500. Ford charged me $1300 for part with installation, not happy since I could do this on my garage in 15 minutes for free! Truck has ran better for a few weeks until 2 days ago. I got on the gas pretty good to pass a little Honda and the truck couldn’t decide which gear to go into and flopped. At the next traffic light sitting there the truck just died. Put into park, took key out and restarted fine.
Things to consider next-
Compression
SPARK plugs
fuel injectors
Alternator
Truck drove okay today, but I never know when the gremlin will present itself next...

How’s that for an update...

EEeeeeeeesh that blows.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

O2 sensor gone bad? WHen it falls flat on its face, does the check engine light come on and sometimes flash? DO you have stock exhaust?

 

[Marspool]

O2 sensor gone bad? WHen it falls flat on its face, does the check engine light come on and sometimes flash? DO you have stock exhaust?

Magnaflow exhaust.
Only got wrench on screen one time to pull codes, other than that no check engine light.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Magnaflow exhaust.
Only got wrench on screen one time to pull codes, other than that no check engine light.

Sounds like loose wiring somewhere? Have you checked all the obvious places for gen 1's : wiring along the frame, transmission bulkhead, battery connections and the main harness into the firewall? I would double check all of those, since there's no check engine light or codes. There might also be a shifter problem reported a couple years ago as well.

 

[GWBush]

Shooting in the dark here but seems the computer is effed up. He’s replaced or repaired damn near everything else. Seems the brain has been damaged in some way.

My other older cars have had similar issues and not sure how the Gen 1 Raptor behaves but the gremlins sure seem to be electronic in nature on this one.

Keep us posted OP. Thoughts and prayers.

 

[Marspool]

It sure is strange. Again ran fine all day yesterday until stopped at a light and it died on my again.........,
Restarted fine and drove home.
Sure would be nice if I could determine if computer was issue myself, I’m pretty much done giving money to the dealership.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

It sure is strange. Again ran fine all day yesterday until stopped at a light and it died on my again.........,
Restarted fine and drove home.
Sure would be nice if I could determine if computer was issue myself, I’m pretty much done giving money to the dealership.

I can't remember, have you replaced that canister purge valve yet, $30 part that takes 15 minutes to replace. I had mine done a few years ago, but my symptoms were a bit different, wouldn't start after filling up with fuel right away. I remember long time ago a couple members mentioning their raptor dying at a stop light and then starting up again, them saying this was the cause, but, Idk. If you haven't done it, may as well do it, regardless. Mine would throw a code for cats plugged, but it was from raw fuel being dumped in, never replaced the cats and that was at least 5 plus years ago.

 

[JimC427]

Check all of your grounds, I have seen Ford's that have the main ground on top of paint and they do not like that. Also if you can get your hands on a scan tool check the quality of fire from the coils. bad or corroded coils cause more problems the warmer they get. runs decent when first started then performance declines as the temp rises.

 

[Marspool]

Check all of your grounds, I have seen Ford's that have the main ground on top of paint and they do not like that. Also if you can get your hands on a scan tool check the quality of fire from the coils. bad or corroded coils cause more problems the warmer they get. runs decent when first started then performance declines as the temp rises.

I have a scanner.
Checking coils next...

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

this is just a guess here since in out of my zone here. but when i blew my motor back in 18, the internal seperator in my radiator broke causing trans fluid to mix with radiator fluid. giving me all kinds of problems. could be worth checking fluids. and what about the torque converter? does it play a role in any of this? im spouting ideas here and no real solid stuff, just basing off experience with my screw ups and having to fix them