Wash and clay.
First Detail - Adamized the Raptor
- Thread starter TheWolf
- Start date
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Wash and clay.
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TheWolf
Full Access Member
@Wilson try pre-soaking anything baked-on or caked-on (bird doo, bugs, mud) with Waterless Wash or with a dilution of Rinseless Wash (2oz RW to 8oz water) before you wash. I will spray it on, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and then see how much rinses off. If there is still some left, do another pre-soak, sit, rinse.
It is best to avoid scrubbing on the paint, as you will likely get scratches.
If pre-soaking, rinsing and washing doesn't get it off, they go with the clay bar like @The Macf suggested. Just make sure to use lots of Detail Spray as lube with the clay bar, so you don't scratch the paint.
It is best to avoid scrubbing on the paint, as you will likely get scratches.
If pre-soaking, rinsing and washing doesn't get it off, they go with the clay bar like @The Macf suggested. Just make sure to use lots of Detail Spray as lube with the clay bar, so you don't scratch the paint.
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TheWolf
Full Access Member
POLISHED AND SEALED
With the truck a little over a year old, it had never been polished and good washing technique was used, so the paint was still in good shape. However, there were some very minor scratches that could only be seen in just the right light at just the right angle. I figure some of these were likely from claying the paint twice last year, and some just from using the truck and getting it dirty. I debated about going another 6 months before correcting the paint, but was anxious to see how much more shine could be added by polishing. I also had one fingernail scratch (kids are trained not to touch the paint, still working on the wife), and one scuff mark from a cardboard box (my fault).
I did a test section on one area that was easy to see with some direct light, and found that Paint Finishing Polish by itself, for a one-step correction, was not going to be enough. I then used the Paint Correcting Polish and found that 3-5 passes took care of the very minor scratches.
Here’s a run-down of the process. You will see that I washed it three times, but I can wash fairly quick with my equipment setup, and I like to work with a clean surface when polishing (ie: not having clay residue on the paint that will clog up the pads).
I also think having super clean paint makes the Liquid Paint Sealant last longer, since it gets a good bond.
Detailing Process with paint correction (machine application):
The dual 4-inch heads on the Cyclo make it easy to get into tight spaces.
Since the plastics and rubber trim were sealed with Quick Sealant, there was no need to mask off all the trim. I did mask one door handle so I could polish out a fingernail scratch that was right next to the handle. The tape kept the polisher from hitting the plastic and removing the sealant.
When the polishing pads would start to dust, I sprayed them with a little Detail Spray. Even using this trick, there was still a lot of polishing dust, which is why I wash after polishing.
It is always a good idea to have extra pads available. They don’t usually fly off, but polishing one-handed while trying to take a picture seems to increase the chances a pad will end up on the ground. NEVER use anything that was on the ground.
Finished late, so I let the pads soak in All Purpose Cleaner overnight.
A reflection shot taken in the garage.
Final photos in the next post…
With the truck a little over a year old, it had never been polished and good washing technique was used, so the paint was still in good shape. However, there were some very minor scratches that could only be seen in just the right light at just the right angle. I figure some of these were likely from claying the paint twice last year, and some just from using the truck and getting it dirty. I debated about going another 6 months before correcting the paint, but was anxious to see how much more shine could be added by polishing. I also had one fingernail scratch (kids are trained not to touch the paint, still working on the wife), and one scuff mark from a cardboard box (my fault).
I did a test section on one area that was easy to see with some direct light, and found that Paint Finishing Polish by itself, for a one-step correction, was not going to be enough. I then used the Paint Correcting Polish and found that 3-5 passes took care of the very minor scratches.
Here’s a run-down of the process. You will see that I washed it three times, but I can wash fairly quick with my equipment setup, and I like to work with a clean surface when polishing (ie: not having clay residue on the paint that will clog up the pads).
I also think having super clean paint makes the Liquid Paint Sealant last longer, since it gets a good bond.
Detailing Process with paint correction (machine application):
- Washed vehicle with Car Wash Shampoo and All Purpose Cleaner using the foam cannon.
- Thorough rinse and then applied Detail Spray, did not dry.
- Clay Bar treatment with Detail Spray.
- Washed vehicle to remove residue from claying, using Car Wash Shampoo and All Purpose Cleaner in the foam cannon.
- Dried with Master Blaster and Great White Drying Towel (no Detail Spray)
- Quick Sealant on all plastic and rubber, making sure to level it out on the trim and the adjacent paint with a foam applicator.
- Quick Sealant on vinyl graphics, leveling it with a foam applicator.
- Paint Correcting Polish with Orange Foam Cutting Pad on the Cyclo, 3-5 passes and then removed residue with Double Soft Towel.
- Paint Finishing Polish with White Foam Finishing Pad on the Cyclo, 2-3 passes and then removed residue with Double Soft Towel.
- Hand polished the gloss vinyl graphics with Clear Polish and a Double Soft Towel.
- Washed vehicle to remove dust from polishing, using Car Wash Shampoo in the foam cannon.
- Dried with Master Blaster and Great White Drying Towel (no Detail Spray).
- Wiped-down paint with 50% Isopropyl Alcohol and Double Soft Towels, being careful not to wipe the Quick Sealant off the plastics and rubber trim.
- Liquid Paint Sealant with Black Machine Sealant Pad on the Cylco, using a mini foam applicator to apply by hand next to trim, removed with Double Soft Towels. Applied by hand to painted portions of bumpers and lights.
- Glass Cleaner with Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towel.
- Glass Sealant with Mini Applicator and Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towel.
- Quick Sealant on the wheels, using a Microfiber Utility towel to level it out.
- Applied Tire Shine by spray and then spread it with the Hex Grip Tire Applicator.
The dual 4-inch heads on the Cyclo make it easy to get into tight spaces.
Since the plastics and rubber trim were sealed with Quick Sealant, there was no need to mask off all the trim. I did mask one door handle so I could polish out a fingernail scratch that was right next to the handle. The tape kept the polisher from hitting the plastic and removing the sealant.
When the polishing pads would start to dust, I sprayed them with a little Detail Spray. Even using this trick, there was still a lot of polishing dust, which is why I wash after polishing.
It is always a good idea to have extra pads available. They don’t usually fly off, but polishing one-handed while trying to take a picture seems to increase the chances a pad will end up on the ground. NEVER use anything that was on the ground.
Finished late, so I let the pads soak in All Purpose Cleaner overnight.
A reflection shot taken in the garage.
Final photos in the next post…
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TheWolf
Full Access Member
As you can see, correcting the paint does add more shine. Polishing removes scratches you can see, but the polishing is also removing imperfections you can’t see with the naked eye. These imperfections in the clear coat affect the clarity of the reflected light, and removing them is how you get even shinier!
The Liquid Paint Sealant provides plenty of gloss by itself, and I think it will be even shinier once I top it with the H20 Guard & Gloss.
The Liquid Paint Sealant provides plenty of gloss by itself, and I think it will be even shinier once I top it with the H20 Guard & Gloss.
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Ironhorse07
FRF Addict
When you say "Washed vehicle with Car Wash Shampoo and All Purpose Cleaner", could you expand on that please?
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TheWolf
Full Access Member
Yes, add 2-3oz of All Purpose Cleaner to the wash bucket or into the foam cannon, along with 3oz of Car Wash Shampoo. The All Purpose Cleaner lowers the pH of the mixture (Car Wash Shampoo is neutral pH), which helps strip off any existing sealant and/or wax.
All Purpose Cleaner by itself (sprayed full strength out of the bottle) should never be allowed to dry on the paint. Mixing it in with the Car Wash Shampoo makes it easy to use.
http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/danwolf73/media/IMG_6052c_zps8kxwpnxr.jpg.html
---------- Post added at 06:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:21 PM ----------
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cbcgeneral
FRF Addict
Yes, add 2-3oz of All Purpose Cleaner to the wash bucket or into the foam cannon, along with 3oz of Car Wash Shampoo. The All Purpose Cleaner lowers the pH of the mixture (Car Wash Shampoo is neutral pH), which helps strip off any existing sealant and/or wax.
All Purpose Cleaner by itself (sprayed full strength out of the bottle) should never be allowed to dry on the paint. Mixing it in with the Car Wash Shampoo makes it easy to use.
http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/danwolf73/media/IMG_6052c_zps8kxwpnxr.jpg.html
---------- Post added at 06:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:21 PM ----------
Your truck looks amazing as usual. I'm going to buy the house next to you just for the neighborly truck washing help you would hopefully offer after seeing me struggle washing my truck. Lol. You'd probably wind up putting a 10' fence around your property to keep me from driving you crazy.
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TheWolf
Full Access Member
Your truck looks amazing as usual. I'm going to buy the house next to you just for the neighborly truck washing help you would hopefully offer after seeing me struggle washing my truck. Lol. You'd probably wind up putting a 10' fence around your property to keep me from driving you crazy.
Hahaha! I am sure you don't struggle like my current neighbor. Washes in the full sun, uses a brush on a pole, then drives around the block instead of drying.
cbcgeneral
FRF Addict
Oh no I'm not that handicapped. I learned not to use a brush on any vehicle when I was a teenager. Lol. And most of my vehicles are black so I know better than not to dry them. Waterspots on a black vehicle are the worst. It looks better to just not wash it than have spots everywhere. Then people only think you're lazy instead of stupid. Lol.
Wilson
FRF Addict
Lol some good laughs this morning. The paint selent with detale spray puts a nice deep awesomeness at least on my blue
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