Famous blend door actuator issue

[dhanni848]

So replaced my passenger side (upper) blend door actuator since I had the famous clicking/knocking, and mine actually was constant and never stopped. After I replaced it I still get a few clicks once I start the truck and then it stops. AC and heat work how it should and have both. Any ideas of what else it could be causing these clicks now? I did the fuse pull calibration multiple times.

Also, the lower does not click but I cannot switch from defrost and floor to front vents, it stays on vents. I removed the lower one and can manually push the door up and down. Assuming the lower needs replaced too!? Would this cause the upper to click at all?

Thanks in advance! About to lose my mind over this.

 

[dhanni848]

No one

 

[EricM]

The clicking is just the broken plastic shaft halves grinding past each other as the motor turns, right?

One has been replaced, the other is not functioning correctly? In that case, I'd guess that, yes, the remaining clicking noise has to be the lower one now.

I've been lucky so far. I've owned Fords for 30+ years now and I've never had a heater core or and type of actuator in the dash go bad in the 10+ Ford vehicles I've owned. Waiting for the dreaded re-circulation door failure in the Raptor though. Dash has to come out to fix that. Most guys just zip tie it open and no longer have re-circ.

 

[dhanni848]

I replaced the first one with a amazon special, and then it persisted and got worse so replaced with a factory one again. I took the 2nd one out and actually took it apart to see what was going on and 1 of the gears was shredded down. At that point if it went in it clicked constantly, put the new one in and it clicks when i start the truck or turn the AC on then stops after a few clicks. Could it be that the slot the new one goes in has a problem?

I have taken the lower one out and it never clicks at all.

Sounds like you are a very lucky one.

 

[HORN HIGH ACES]

The clicking is just the broken plastic shaft halves grinding past each other as the motor turns, right?

One has been replaced, the other is not functioning correctly? In that case, I'd guess that, yes, the remaining clicking noise has to be the lower one now.

I've been lucky so far. I've owned Fords for 30+ years now and I've never had a heater core or and type of actuator in the dash go bad in the 10+ Ford vehicles I've owned. Waiting for the dreaded re-circulation door failure in the Raptor though. Dash has to come out to fix that. Most guys just zip tie it open and no longer have re-circ.

I had the re-circ issue happen last year, but didnt have to do anything other than extract the piece that broke off and fell into the air blower fan. What are people zip tying?

 

[dhanni848]

I had the re-circ issue happen last year, but didnt have to do anything other than extract the piece that broke off and fell into the air blower fan. What are people zip tying?

I am to the point I don’t have a clue what my issue is. Possibly the gear in the plenum has lost its home spot and tries to go too far, pops a few times, and doesn’t do it again until the truck is off and started again. If I do temp above 82 I hear it strain but no pops. Temp goes up and down as it should.

 

[EricM]

I had the re-circ issue happen last year, but didnt have to do anything other than extract the piece that broke off and fell into the air blower fan. What are people zip tying?

Not 100% sure since I've not had the failure, but I believe the recirc door is in the closed position when it fails, so they zip tie it open to get fresh air.

 

[ogdobber]

OP I've been dealing with this on my 2011. Every start up i get the clicking until inevitably it leads to a failure, and have to replace. Im stuck on cold ac right now so i unplugged the actuators and have the summer to figure it out.
What i think is happening, is every startup it is doing a calibration (like when you pull the fuse) and it hits the endmark and clicks, which is fine for a one-time calibration, but strips the gears after, i dont know, 100 cycles?
The question is why it is losing power? Obviously i have checked the fuses. And even replaced the bcm (inside fuse box.)
I think there may be a memory module under the seat?? Idk
Also note, my radio as well is suffering the "memory" power loss


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[dhanni848]

OP I've been dealing with this on my 2011. Every start up i get the clicking until inevitably it leads to a failure, and have to replace. Im stuck on cold ac right now so i unplugged the actuators and have the summer to figure it out.
What i think is happening, is every startup it is doing a calibration (like when you pull the fuse) and it hits the endmark and clicks, which is fine for a one-time calibration, but strips the gears after, i dont know, 100 cycles?
The question is why it is losing power? Obviously i have checked the fuses. And even replaced the bcm (inside fuse box.)
I think there may be a memory module under the seat?? Idk
Also note, my radio as well is suffering the "memory" power loss


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If you do the fuse removal reset does yours actually calibrate when you put it back in? Mine makes no moves or sounds when I try it. I tried unplugging the battery for 30 minutes as well and nothing.

 

[ogdobber]

If you do the fuse removal reset does yours actually calibrate when you put it back in? Mine makes no moves or sounds when I try it. I tried unplugging the battery for 30 minutes as well and nothing.

I think there is a special order/process. I don't remember... Like key off then pull fuse or vice versa.
Can also be done with forscan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro