Engine Breakin?

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Ruger

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Yes sir, indeed. Initial break-in oil is potentially the dirtiest motor oil of an engine's life unless it is badly neglected. Think about casting flash, break-in particulates, assembly lube... It is a very good idea to change the oil at the 1,000 mile mark. Think of it as a cheap investment in the future of the vehicle you bought with your hard earned paychecks.
 

D11gnccer

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Yes sir, indeed. Initial break-in oil is potentially the dirtiest motor oil of an engine's life unless it is badly neglected. Think about casting flash, break-in particulates, assembly lube... It is a very good idea to change the oil at the 1,000 mile mark. Think of it as a cheap investment in the future of the vehicle you bought with your hard earned paychecks.
Which is why Honda states that their factory fill must remain in use for proper engine break in until the oil life monitor indicates it is time for the first oil change?

Has anyone ran an analysis on a new Raptor to see if additives are added for break in?

I’ve serviced some generators that were switched to synthetic soon after being placed into use and their compression was lower and oil consumption higher than others that ran the factory fill for longer.
 
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Skyhigh18

Skyhigh18

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At 1300 miles
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RMB_Ryan

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I have 1200 miles on my 2018. When is it considered broken in? Most of its been highway and city driving. Dealer never really said anything about it or how to break it in.
We use a very specific break in procedure on our engines. The same can be followed on a new motor

We pull oil filter at 25 min/miles

250 change again

500-750 change again (we use breakin oil up to this point)

1500 change again to conventional race oil.

3500 we recommend you get Oil analysis and based on it we recommend you change to synthetic or one more conventional oil. After this letteeeer rip.

Why so often? This is a pretty standard performance engine breakin procedure, not oem engine breakin procedure. A bit much, yes. But we find wear metals really decline at 3000-3500 miles and rings fully seat. We like getting all the wear metals out as often as possible. Driving locked in gear using engine breaking to naturally slow you down allows the engine to see vacuum which is better for ring seal. Try to stay out of boost, but vary loads, try to not idle often.

Just my $.02
 
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Fastback89

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We use a very specific break in procedure on our engines. The same can be followed on a new motor

We pull oil filter at 25 min/miles

250 change again

500-750 change again (we use breakin oil up to this point)

1500 change again to conventional synthetic

3500 we recommend you get Oil analysis and based on it we recommend you change to synthetic or one more conventional oil. After this letteeeer rip.

Why so often? This is a pretty standard performance engine breakin procedure, not oem engine breakin procedure. A bit much, yes. But we find wear metals really decline at 3000-3500 miles and rings fully seat. We like getting all the wear metals out as often as possible. Driving locked in gear using engine breaking to naturally slow you down allows the engine to see vacuum which is better for ring seal. Try to stay out of boost, but vary loads, try to not idle often.

Just my $.02
This is really thorough, I like it. I've done similar oil and filter routine with bikes for years.
 

zemuron99

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Yes sir, indeed. Initial break-in oil is potentially the dirtiest motor oil of an engine's life unless it is badly neglected. Think about casting flash, break-in particulates, assembly lube... It is a very good idea to change the oil at the 1,000 mile mark. Think of it as a cheap investment in the future of the vehicle you bought with your hard earned paychecks.

This ^^^

My Blackstone analysis from the first change at about 1800 miles (after a filter change at roughly 500 miles) showed 94ppm copper (averages 23), 173 boron (averages 42), 38 ppm iron (averages 22), 111 silicon (averages 18), and 825 zinc (averages 763). All except the silicon were attributed to wear-in, and the silicon was felt to be due to silicone-based sealers used during assembly. The viscosity was also a bit low at 53.6 (normal 54-63). Interestingly, aluminum was only slightly elevated (8 ppm, average 5); lead, tin nickel and sodium were all at/below 'averages' from them.

At the second (most recent) change at 4220 miles (with M1 full syn 5W30), aluminum was down to 5, iron down to 23, copper down to 33, silicon down to 29, boron down to 70. Viscosity was good at 58, and the TBN analysis (additive package components) was still 3.4. They said I could try extending the interval to 6000 miles, which I'll do just to see what it looks like. It'll probably be in the next few weeks as I'm at ~5700 miles now. In my Tacoma (3.4 V6) I'll do between 5K and 7.5K depending on how hard I've flogged it, and at 185K miles it doesn't lose a measurable amount between changes, and the end of the exhaust is clean and dry, and the plugs show no oil fouling at all.
 
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