Electrical/No crank problem

[ScottRaptor]

Check voltage when truck is off, record the number
Keep the DMM hooked up, try to crank it, see if it drops, if so record it.

Post numbers here.

Ok, so I ran home to get some readings on the battery:
at a standstill it reads 12.2 volts then as soon as I turn the key to ignition is goes down to 1.7 and then settles at about 2.0 volts. It stays there until
I put the charger on it. Once the charger is connected it comes back up to 14 and then when I start it the voltage drops to 8.5, truck starts, and then eventually comes back up to 15

so....is the battery my issue?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Ok, so I ran home to get some readings on the battery:
at a standstill it reads 12.2 volts then as soon as I turn the key to ignition is goes down to 1.7 and then settles at about 2.0 volts. It stays there until
I put the charger on it. Once the charger is connected it comes back up to 14 and then when I start it the voltage drops to 8.5, truck starts, and then eventually comes back up to 15

so....is the battery my issue?

it has been....

but feel free to throw parts my way

 

[ScottRaptor]

it has been....

but feel free to throw parts my way

haha!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

the only way to properly test a battery is with a load test. they make load testers but also what you did is a load test. cranking the engine requires a lot of power. when your voltage dropped, it meant that there isnt enough power to start the truck. when you measured the voltage and it was at 12v it was because there isnt a heavy enough load on it to actually test the battery and gave you a false reading

 

[FordTechOne]

Ok, so I ran home to get some readings on the battery:
at a standstill it reads 12.2 volts then as soon as I turn the key to ignition is goes down to 1.7 and then settles at about 2.0 volts. It stays there until
I put the charger on it. Once the charger is connected it comes back up to 14 and then when I start it the voltage drops to 8.5, truck starts, and then eventually comes back up to 15

so....is the battery my issue?

That battery is dead and gone. Anything lower than about 9.5V when turning the key is bad.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

That battery is dead and gone. Anything lower than about 9.5V when turning the key is bad.

now if we can get one other memeber with a starting issue to change his battery.......

 

[MTF]

Don't settle for anything less, this is the best you can get. Plenty of threads and posts on this forum.
A little pricey but you get what you pay for. And made in the USA
And the only battery you'll find that does 950 cold cranking amps

ODX-AGM65 (65-PC1750T) ODYSSEY Extreme Series Battery | ODYSSEY® Battery

There are places where you can get it a little cheaper
Amazon.com: Odyssey Battery 65-PC1750T lead_acid_battery: Automotive

I believe some vendors on here can get a discount too.

 

[B E N]

Looks like your on the right track OP.

The top tier batteries from most manufacturers are an AGM. I don't buy into the odyssey trend, getting service on them is much more of a hassle than going to your local parts store and exchanging what you have. If you have an Odyssey supplier near by that's great, if you don't I wouldn't inconvenience yourself. Most towns have an o'reilly or advanced auto, makes servicing a lot easier.

 

[MTF]

Well that's the great thing about the Odessey battery, it doesn't need servicing.
In fact, not one complaint on this forum for years.

I went through 3 Batteries in the first 5 years of her life, the OEM lasted 6 months.
I have the Odessey for 6 years now still going strong!!!

 

[B E N]

That's like claiming a raptor never needs servicing.