Electrical/No crank problem

[BenBB]

Not sure, found this:
https://f01.justanswer.com/apjp02/fe6fc89f-9516-45e8-b7d0-f263521e1fe2_1.pdf
LH Steering wheel switch??

 

[ScottRaptor]

I've replaced the LH switch and the clock spring and still have that particular issue. More alarming to me is the overall starter system fault which, unless I jump start each time, completely disables the truck. Do all these various DTC's mean I'm looking at a BCM and/or PCM replacement? I would assume that's not a garage job as it probably requires some programming once the new module is installed (if that's what I need to fix this).

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

if you can jump it, it pointing to your battery

 

[ScottRaptor]

if you can jump it, it pointing to your battery

Thanks for the reply! Would the battery be an issue if it's reading around 14.5 volts when running? According to the sticker on the battery it's only a year and a half old (bought the truck a month ago). Would a bad battery cause the starter system fault and all the other codes I posted in my previous post last night?

 

[BenBB]

if you can jump it, it pointing to your battery

Exactly what I was thinking. Or else that's the best theft deterrent ever. I got that "Starting System Fault" a couple times right before my battery died completely. A year-old battery can still fail, and that's a way cheaper option than BCM/PCM, I think it's worth trying even if it's just swapping a battery from something else. The more electronics they have the more sensitive they get to low voltage...

 

[MTF]

^I agree.

What is the voltage of the battery when truck is off, anything below 12.7 is going to create problems.
And have you removed the battery terminal cables and cleaned everything up?
At least you will do a battery reset while checking.
I also see you have some light mods, maybe try turning off "AUTO LIGHTS",

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Thanks for the reply! Would the battery be an issue if it's reading around 14.5 volts when running? According to the sticker on the battery it's only a year and a half old (bought the truck a month ago). Would a bad battery cause the starter system fault and all the other codes I posted in my previous post last night?

the battery voltage when running is due to the alternator. it powers the system and charges the battery. low voltage during crank will throw all kinds of codes, but the mere fact you are using a jumper, says its the battery. my oem battery in my truck didnt make it 3 months from brand new. batteries will go bad. just like any other electronic, it can sometimes be a crap shoot and you get unlucky and get the bad one

 

[B E N]

Check voltage when truck is off, record the number
Keep the DMM hooked up, try to crank it, see if it drops, if so record it.

Post numbers here.

 

[ScottRaptor]

Thanks all! I'll do the above mentioned and report back.

 

[FordTechOne]

I've replaced the LH switch and the clock spring and still have that particular issue. More alarming to me is the overall starter system fault which, unless I jump start each time, completely disables the truck. Do all these various DTC's mean I'm looking at a BCM and/or PCM replacement? I would assume that's not a garage job as it probably requires some programming once the new module is installed (if that's what I need to fix this).

Nope, the DTCs indicate that the ignition key isn’t being recognized. However, as the others said, if it starts when you jump it, that indicates that a battery or battery cable issue is inducing the concern. When voltage drops below threshold, modules can set erroneous DTCs and may even power down.

Start by having the battery tested. If it passes, you’re most likely looking at a corroded, damaged, or loose battery cable or ground connection. The issue can be isolated by performing a voltage drop test.