GEN 2 Ebov tick....tick,tick

[JustRaptor1]

Has Anyone figured out a solution for this yet?

 

[Clockton]

My stock blow off valve began to tick. I replaced the valve and it went away.

 

[highway420]

Has Anyone figured out a solution for this yet?

No, this is why most have either returned the BOV or stayed away from it. I returned mine, kept the plug and put the factory one back in. it still vents to atmosphere and sounds very similar to turbo smarts, just not as loud. Just better all the way around, under load, the TB's BOV didn't like staying in between and had stuttering problems that led to limp mode.. sudden torque loss too many times in given time.

 

[digscruze]

Highway,

what did you end up doing? I saw you posted on many threads and I’m expediting the same issues as you. The dreaded sprinkler noise and the occasional shuddering, however I bought the truck with this mod so I’m not sure how to proceed in replacing the TS.

Any info or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

No, this is why most have either returned the BOV or stayed away from it. I returned mine, kept the plug and put the factory one back in. it still vents to atmosphere and sounds very similar to turbo smarts, just not as loud. Just better all the way around, under load, the TB's BOV didn't like staying in between and had stuttering problems that led to limp mode.. sudden torque loss too many times in given time.

 

[highway420]

Highway,

what did you end up doing? I saw you posted on many threads and I’m expediting the same issues as you. The dreaded sprinkler noise and the occasional shuddering, however I bought the truck with this mod so I’m not sure how to proceed in replacing the TS.

Any info or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

One way to fix I saw was to get a throttle body spacer and tap in there and put the factory 'vacuum' hose back on the manifold like it was w/o the BOV.

What I specifically did, was what I just posted. Kept the plug in the hose that goes back to intake, put the factory valve back in, connected it back to the electronic connection. Just look up the 4$ vent to atmos for raptors. Pretend you never had the TS bov, and just took off the stock hose that puts in back to intake, plugged it, and now the factory bov vents to atmosphere. But you would have to source the original BOV AND the hose.. I kept my hose and used industrial shrink wrap and put it back to factory connections on top.

 

[digscruze]

One way to fix I saw was to get a throttle body spacer and tap in there and put the factory 'vacuum' hose back on the manifold like it was w/o the BOV.

What I specifically did, was what I just posted. Kept the plug in the hose that goes back to intake, put the factory valve back in, connected it back to the electronic connection. Just look up the 4$ vent to atmos for raptors. Pretend you never had the TS bov, and just took off the stock hose that puts in back to intake, plugged it, and now the factory bov vents to atmosphere. But you would have to source the original BOV AND the hose.. I kept my hose and used industrial shrink wrap and put it back to factory connections on top.

Thanks for clarifying, I bought my truck w/ the part but the noise has been driving me crazy for the past year. I thought it was a puller or serpentine belt, even took it to the dealer various times to fix but even they couldn't pinpoint the issue. Im glad I stumbled upon this thread and subsequently, the others which mention the common issue w/ these valves.

It seems like TS really made a sh***y product and didn't put much thought or care into the design or customer concerns aspect. Im also experiencing shudder issues like you mentioned and overall i cant stand the noise

I bought the OEM parts and decided to go with VTA BOV from Go Fast Bits. It reuses part of the factory solenoid but also includes parts that replace the original internals which are weak. There's a lot of info on their site and I also reached out to one of their engineers who explained how the product was designed meticulously for the truck, even using a custom bracket for the stock tube and considering the use of a double o-ring for a tight seal.
I brought up the TS EM Bov (electronic version) and he mentioned that GFB have specific patents that they can't infringe on and their valve mends the electronic aspect of the device w/ the mechanical component of a BOV. So when operating it closes quicker because of the mechanical actuation but also opens when determined by the ECU.

https://gfb.com.au/products/blow-of...ta/vta-t9464-ford-f150-ecoboost-applications/

https://gfb.com.au/download/t9464_instructions/?wpdmdl=12732&refresh=5ff89f6d2c6651610129261
(Install instructions)

According tot their site: "this works by re-purposing the factory solenoid to control the pressure behind the piston rather than the piston itself. This allows the solenoid stroke to be much shorter, speeding up the response time and increasing the actuation force. More importantly, it allows the piston to open and close progressively in response to the amount of boost pressure present, which smooths boost transitions and reduces the lag caused by the factory diverter valve."


Not sure if you're interested in going down that road again but it definitely looks like a solid product. I'll be posting a new thread after the install to share the details. Regardless, i feel that any other solution is better than other the BOV + sprinkler noises I got going on right now.

 

[highway420]

Thanks for clarifying, I bought my truck w/ the part but the noise has been driving me crazy for the past year. I thought it was a puller or serpentine belt, even took it to the dealer various times to fix but even they couldn't pinpoint the issue. Im glad I stumbled upon this thread and subsequently, the others which mention the common issue w/ these valves.

It seems like TS really made a sh***y product and didn't put much thought or care into the design or customer concerns aspect. Im also experiencing shudder issues like you mentioned and overall i cant stand the noise

I bought the OEM parts and decided to go with VTA BOV from Go Fast Bits. It reuses part of the factory solenoid but also includes parts that replace the original internals which are weak. There's a lot of info on their site and I also reached out to one of their engineers who explained how the product was designed meticulously for the truck, even using a custom bracket for the stock tube and considering the use of a double o-ring for a tight seal.
I brought up the TS EM Bov (electronic version) and he mentioned that GFB have specific patents that they can't infringe on and their valve mends the electronic aspect of the device w/ the mechanical component of a BOV. So when operating it closes quicker because of the mechanical actuation but also opens when determined by the ECU.

https://gfb.com.au/products/blow-of...ta/vta-t9464-ford-f150-ecoboost-applications/

https://gfb.com.au/download/t9464_instructions/?wpdmdl=12732&refresh=5ff89f6d2c6651610129261
(Install instructions)

According tot their site: "this works by re-purposing the factory solenoid to control the pressure behind the piston rather than the piston itself. This allows the solenoid stroke to be much shorter, speeding up the response time and increasing the actuation force. More importantly, it allows the piston to open and close progressively in response to the amount of boost pressure present, which smooths boost transitions and reduces the lag caused by the factory diverter valve."


Not sure if you're interested in going down that road again but it definitely looks like a solid product. I'll be posting a new thread after the install to share the details. Regardless, i feel that any other solution is better than other the BOV + sprinkler noises I got going on right now.

Wow. thank you very much for sharing this info! and glad this thread had some insight. I will investigate this one. As I do have a tune so boost is little more than stock a lot of the time and would be good to have a more "advanced" valve on it.

 

[digscruze]

Wow. thank you very much for sharing this info! and glad this thread had some insight. I will investigate this one. As I do have a tune so boost is little more than stock a lot of the time and would be good to have a more "advanced" valve on it.

Same, glad we found each other lol! You have no idea how bad that ticking noise was driving me crazy.
I also running a tune (MPT) + aftermarket IC so I feel that this is better than the stock solution while affording some of the advantages of a mechanical valve.

I wasn't too sure about pulling the plug until I reached out and spoke to their engineer. Who provided me with some solid answers. The fact that they provide detailed knowledge and have other solid products really sold me on their company. Feel free to reach out to them if you have any questions.

These were some of the ones i asked and their response from one of their engineers.

---------------------------------------------------------------
I asked about the TS EM BOV and how their product compares to the TS one

1. I’m not 100% across how the EM series of valves works. I’ve had a bit of a look at it but it’s hard to tell how it will work in use without seeing it on the car. I do know that a lot of the design must have been targeted at getting around the patent we have on the DV+ and VTA valves. This may have meant that they weren’t able to get the design they actually wanted. This is all just speculation though.

The VTA works in a similar way to the factory valve but with one major change. The factory valve uses a diaphragm/piston design with holes through the middle. This means that the boost pressure pushes the valve closed. The solenoid then magnetically pulls the valve open and allows the air to vent out the side. This is a nice tidy design because it’s pressure balanced and the valve will always stay closed. The only issues are that the valve is directly controlled by the solenoid. The closing of the valve is only related to the ECU control, not how much pressure the valve needs to vent, AND the valve being quite large slows the valves operation.


The VTA uses a pilot actuation system, where instead of the piston being pulled open by the solenoid, a much smaller plunger is used. When the plunger opens it vents the pressure behind the piston, and the piston slams open. The plunger can be much smaller and lighter than the piston so it opens very quickly. Additionally the valve itself can now begin to close before the ECU tells it to. Once the pressure drops to a certain level, the secondary spring behind the piston will begin to close it, regardless of what the solenoid is doing.


Closing the valve earlier retains some boost pressure in the intercooler and improves throttle response when coming off and on the throttle.

How the ECU works and if the ECU operation for the BOV can be manipulated w/ a tune:

2. The ECU will trigger the valve to open any time the actual throttle closes faster than that rate. With modern fly by wire systems, the actual throttle isn’t necessarily doing what the pedal tells it to. I suppose it may be possible to change the values that the ECU determines should open the valve. That’s probably a conversation you’d need to have with your tuner though. Using any kind of electronic control will have the same result, it’s all triggered by the ECU. The only way you could remove this ECU control would be to use a traditional pneumatically actuated valve and remove the solenoid completely.

Advantage of using an electric vs mechanical BOV on our trucks:

3. Traditional valves do definitely still have that place, however on cars that were designed to use electronic control it does tend to be a better idea to retain that control. Firstly, electronically controlled valves tend to open much quicker than traditional valves. Another overlooked factor is that the ECU is programmed to operate the valve based on a whole bunch of different sensors. A traditional valve is only related to manifold vacuum, so depending how it’s set up, there may be situations where it doesn’t open and you get a bit of flutter OR it may open for too long and ruin throttle response. These are all pretty subtle advantages but to me the main thing is that the conventional BOV kits require tapping into manifold vacuum, tricking the ECU into thinking the solenoid is working and just tend to be a lot more fiddly with all these adaptors and plugs.

Aftermarket compatibility

4. The VTA will work on any aftermarket intercooler that uses the factory style fitting. We actually became aware of potential issues like that during the design phase. We saw some concern from workshops with aftermarket valves and even the stock valve not pulling up tight and potentially leaking. This led us to re-design the inlet to include a second O-ring that seals on the taper as well as one that sits in the bore. These two contact points keep the valve nice and tight.

 

[verticallyblessed]

I just added the TS supersonic vacuum BOV a few weeks ago and I do notice the little chirping. This specific BOV was suggested to me by MPT for higher boost. When I did a 1/4 mi run I got an evap malfunction code thrown. I think I'm going to try replacing the rubber vacuum hose with something sturdier. I went from 4.6 to 4.2 sec 0-60mph which is substantial so I really can't say it isn't doing what its supposed to.

 

[zombiekiller]

Has Anyone figured out a solution for this yet?

yes. It was discussed a bunch.

The hose that TS provided with the kit is too flexible. It will collapse a little bit, which means the vacuum strength will quickly fluctuate based on check valves and it causes the intermittent "sprinkler" sound.

You can't tee off of that line without throwing the system out of spec.

A throttle body spacer with its own boost reference point is required.

You leave the factory line alone and connect the reference hose off of the throttle body spacer to the mechanical BOV.

no more sprinkler sound and more reliable vacuum strength for the brakes and the IWEs.