GEN 1 Driveshaft slip yoke clunk fix

[ogdobber]

I searched and i couldn't find a thread on this so i created this.

TLDR get a new slip yoke[emoji13].



The symtoms can vary from just a squeak when accelerating (or stopping) to a very distinct clunk. Video showing clunk below







This is the result of a lack of lubrication causing excessive tolerances on the slip yoke splines



The only solution is to replace the yoke. I recommend adding a zerk fitting and grease every oil change. If you don't do a grease zerk then you will have to remove the driveshaft to grease (which is a pain) and it needs to be lubricated regularly.

Just greasing the "clunk" is a temp fix and will come back (sooner than later)





Additional note.

When lubing via the zerk, just a couple pumps of the gun. If you pack it full, most will find its way into the transfer case



5000 miles ago i packed the yoke with lucas sticky red and after a hard offroad session in baja the "squeak" was back. Taking off the driveshaft shows it is nearly dry. So greasing is just a temp fix, if you have a clunk/squeak replace the yoke















I installed a 6mm x1 zerk. The drill needed is a 13/64











New yoke



High quality zerk









ford teflon XG-8 PTFE grease is the ONLY grease to use



Here is the part number for a tub that can be packed into a grease gun (haven't been able to find a tube as of yet)















This is the part number for a 11-13 screw slip yoke. Not sure if will fit a 10 or 14, it can be found at tasca. They will ask for vin to make sure it fits.



#BL3Z-4841-F



Grease



D2AZ19590A is superseded by xg8a can be found on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNVK5SM/?tag=fordraptorforum-20







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[mmaterni]

I searched and i couldn't find a thread on this so i created this. I will try to cover all the solutions.
The symtoms can vary from just a squeak when accelerating (or stopping) to a very distinct clunk. Video showing clunk below

This is the result of a lack of lubrication and possibly not tight enough tolerances on the slip yoke splines
The number one thing to do is add a zerk fitting and grease every oil change. If you don't do a grease zerk then you will have to romove the driveshaft to grease (which is a pain) and it needs to be lubricated regularly.
5000 miles ago i packed the yoke with lucas sticky red and after a hard offroad session is baja the "squeak" was back. Taking off the driveshaft shows it is nearly dry.



I installed a 6mm x1 zerk. The drill needed is a 13/64



After extensive reading the ford teflon XG-8 PTFE grease lasts a little longer but not forever
Here is the part number for a tub that can be packed into a grease gun (haven't been able to find a tube as of yet)



This is the part number for a 11-13 screw slip yoke. Not sure if will fit a 10 or 14
#BL3Z-4841-F


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This topic has been covered extensively in this thread.
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/showthread.php?t=1482
Many have had positive results using Amsoil grease and some have installed grease points with still no relief. Others have never experienced the issue. Check out the thread for an in depth discussion and I hope your fix works for you. Looks like you did a good install but my concern would be the grease being unable to get into the splints during cycling of the suspension and the grease point being located more toward the rear of the shaft opposite the splints. Either way though I hope it works for you and any improvement is a step in the right direction.


Famous last words, "if you hit it faster it will smooth out some!"

 

[debate]

The squeaks might be from the leaf springs?

 

[ogdobber]

This topic has been covered extensively in this thread.
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/showthread.php?t=1482
Many have had positive results using Amsoil grease and some have installed grease points with still no relief. Others have never experienced the issue. Check out the thread for an in depth discussion and I hope your fix works for you. Looks like you did a good install but my concern would be the grease being unable to get into the splints during cycling of the suspension and the grease point being located more toward the rear of the shaft opposite the splints. Either way though I hope it works for you and any improvement is a step in the right direction.


Famous last words, "if you hit it faster it will smooth out some!"

Well i did search...even have read that thread! Haha. (The search function sucks in forums) Here's the thing. No matter what grease is used it will eventually have to be regreased and it is a pain in the ass to pull the driveshaft to do it. The only reason Ford doesn't put a zerk in from factory is the epa no longer allows it. (Think thousands of trucks with faulty zerks flinging grease)
Anyways this is the fix. If you got a new yoke with tighter splines it still will need to be greased (and greased again and again)
The zerk needs to be towards the back so when the suspension cycles the rubber seal/boot doesn't crash into it.
There is probably a couple inch void in between the output shaft and the bottom out of the yoke. So when you grease it for the first time it will take quite a bit of grease to fill that void, then you will feel the "pressure" when it is full...then a few more pumps will (squeeze) the grease into the splines. And as time goes on, and as the suspension cycles it continues to squeeze.
Before i put the zerk in, i packed the yoke with (lucas) grease and was dead quiet until a very heavy rock crawling and off roading session.
So with better grease (ford teflon) i am hoping to get more than 5000 miles and of course i will easily re grease on my oil changes
Still, since i bought my truck used, and the yoke was likely never greased, there may be wear and thus chews through grease quicker than it should.
So we will see. But definitely on the new one, if installed, will also get a grease zerk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 PM ----------

The squeaks might be from the leaf springs?

If you click on that link that mmaterni posted and look at the last reply its mine from a couple months ago... Searching a solution for a squeak (chrip) was driving me nuts. Thought for sure it was leaf springs however 100% it is the yoke drying out. I just again had the squeak...did the fix above (installed zerk and greased) and now its dead quiet and smooth


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[mmaterni]

I just ordered this grease per the recommendation of Chris at Freedom. I'll install and see how it goes. If it doesn't work I may be pursuing this instead. What you explain makes sense regarding positioning and everything. Do you think that the fitting will be safe from contact with the seal even at full compression such as when jumping/landing?

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ..._medium=OrderConfirm&utm_campaign=ProdSummary

Famous last words, "if you hit it faster it will smooth out some!"

 

[ogdobber]

I just ordered this grease per the recommendation of Chris at Freedom. I'll install and see how it goes. If it doesn't work I may be pursuing this instead. What you explain makes sense regarding positioning and everything. Do you think that the fitting will be safe from contact with the seal even at full compression such as when jumping/landing?

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ..._medium=OrderConfirm&utm_campaign=ProdSummary

Famous last words, "if you hit it faster it will smooth out some!"

Where i put the zerk If you look at the normal wear its not even close and the maximum stroke is still 1/4 inch away, however i could have probably put it a bit further away...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[ogdobber]

Well i put a new slip yoke in. This time i used a "high quality" zerk as the china one leaked. Shocker right?
Anyways as i stated before, i had excess play in the splines do to lack of lubrication over my truck 72k (when i got it) so starting fresh is the way to go
I highly recommend you install the zerk unless you are going to pull the driveshaft every oil change to lube...
Regular lubing will insure that it won't wear out






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[MTF]

Adding grease is a quick and short lived fix, plus you may not know this but what ever you put in the yoke will just run out into the transfer case fluid and thus contaminating it.
A little grease for time to time is not going to kill the transfer case fluid but if just pump a shit load grease in that zerk your going to have a change out the Transfer case fluid a lot more.
Transfer case problems are costly!!!

Side Note: Transfer case, change the fluid !!!!!! I couldn't believe how burnt the fluid was at 20,000 miles.
AND make sure it's topped off, this will aid in getting oil up into yoke!

A new yoke is all that's needed with a small amount of grease, if the nickel plate coating wears down to much it will bind.
The nickel is purposely added to sacrifice itself. I've gone through two yokes and it is getting time for a new one.
The TSB is about Fords fix for poorly nickeled yokes, though they don't say that exactly.

I've even tried a chromoly yoke, but it was binding like crazy no matter what grease we tried.
The splines were just to tight, there needs to be play in there. Found out later that all the Auto manufactures making 4x4s found that out many years ago.

I was getting about a one and half to two months out of the Ford grease and about the same for all the other grease I've tried. 560 rwhp will do that. LOL
The only grease that has held up for 6 to 8 months is Duponts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UTX0KK/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
Research this product, I use it on everything that needs grease even my cranes.

I will try the http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ..._medium=OrderConfirm&utm_campaign=ProdSummary on my next purchase.

But keep use informed, I am interested in hearing back from you in about a year or two.
I will still have my Raptor for many more years.
My 7 year Extended Warranty is up in August and I will be purchasing another 6 year premium plan.

 

[schmeal]

The only reason Ford doesn't put a zerk in from factory is the epa no longer allows it. (Think thousands of trucks with faulty zerks flinging grease)

This is so stupid. I've had a lot of beaters in my days and never have I seen a faulty zerk fling grease. They either work or get plugged. Our tax dollars hard at work I suppose.

 

[ogdobber]

This is so stupid. I've had a lot of beaters in my days and never have I seen a faulty zerk fling grease. They either work or get plugged. Our tax dollars hard at work I suppose.

Actually china has successfully made a zerk that flings grease. Lol. When I put my new slip yoke on I just used the (china) zerk that I had on the old one. Pumped the yoke full of grease to the point where the yoke slightly moved away from the transfer case, so there was a bit of pressure, but not much. When I pulled away the gun and wiped off the excess, the zerk was slowly spewing grease out the tip.
So I found my new made in USA stainless zerk and all is good

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:33 PM ----------

Adding grease is a quick and short lived fix, plus you may not know this but what ever you put in the yoke will just run out into the transfer case fluid and thus contaminating it.
A little grease for time to time is not going to kill the transfer case fluid but if just pump a shit load grease in that zerk your going to have a change out the Transfer case fluid a lot more.
Transfer case problems are costly!!!

Side Note: Transfer case, change the fluid !!!!!! I couldn't believe how burnt the fluid was at 20,000 miles.
AND make sure it's topped off, this will aid in getting oil up into yoke!

the seal on the back of the transfer case would take a lot of pressure in either direction for fluid to get past it...the grease isn't going in and the transfer fluid isn't leaking out to "oil the yoke". If it is, you have a bad seal and it need to be replaced.

A new yoke is all that's needed with a small amount of grease, if the nickel plate coating wears down to much it will bind.
The nickel is purposely added to sacrifice itself. I've gone through two yokes and it is getting time for a new one.
The TSB is about Fords fix for poorly nickeled yokes, though they don't say that exactly.

True the nickel is supposed to sacrifice itself, way easy to change the yoke vs the output shaft. however, a small amount a grease will soon turn to none and the wearing will start. metal on metal will always wear, softest will go first. That is why keeping it properly greased is essential and the only way to do that is pull the driveshaft (hassle) or put a zerk and grease EVERY oil change.

I will keep you posted, i am 100% confident in this fix