Do B&O supercabs have Subwoofer
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What if I said I can make my rear view mirror shake? The Aux Sub addition does let the factory sub go untamed. I think there’s more midbass coming from the doors too, but I don’t have enough seat time to truly call this one.
I wasn’t expecting the world with the change as a factory 8” sub and a 100 watt amp can only do so much. But as you turn the volume up I notice the sub keeps following now and doesn’t fade away like before and you end up losing most of your bass at higher volume levels. There just might be more bass even at lower levels as well. I will have to listen more. But there is some enhanced punch like a sub should provide and that’s really nice. I think I can live with this, at least for a while.
I wasn’t expecting the world with the change as a factory 8” sub and a 100 watt amp can only do so much. But as you turn the volume up I notice the sub keeps following now and doesn’t fade away like before and you end up losing most of your bass at higher volume levels. There just might be more bass even at lower levels as well. I will have to listen more. But there is some enhanced punch like a sub should provide and that’s really nice. I think I can live with this, at least for a while.
Since the bottom end is stronger now, it only made the mids and highs show there weakness.
Most folks have had good luck just and only upgrading there drivers? Not looking to stuff separates in there, but high quality same sized components. Don’t need it screaming, as quality of sound is more important to me these days.
Most folks have had good luck just and only upgrading there drivers? Not looking to stuff separates in there, but high quality same sized components. Don’t need it screaming, as quality of sound is more important to me these days.
DrewFish11
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Thank you for the quick report back. Sounds like a worth while upgrade to squeeze a little extra out of the stock system. I’ll give it a shot when I get some time. Thanks!
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Don't bother replacing JUST the factory door speakers...they are not the problem.
The lack of power is the problem. When i was doing my system, I actually replaced the doors last (over a 3 day period) because i was waiting for the adapters to do the mounts.
So, for a day, i ran my two 10 inch subs and the factory door speakers off the JL 600 watt amp, and it cranked. the factory speakers did not sound that bad at all. It told me the amp in the factory system is the road block more then anything else.
You can never have to much power.......too little power is worse then too much.
The lack of power is the problem. When i was doing my system, I actually replaced the doors last (over a 3 day period) because i was waiting for the adapters to do the mounts.
So, for a day, i ran my two 10 inch subs and the factory door speakers off the JL 600 watt amp, and it cranked. the factory speakers did not sound that bad at all. It told me the amp in the factory system is the road block more then anything else.
You can never have to much power.......too little power is worse then too much.
lawdog
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I'd agree with this except for the midbass drivers in the front. Every speaker generally sound better with more power, but these units are paper crap with a magnet that would pick up a set of keys. For a lower-cost upgrade, doing the front speakers is still the simplest upgrade/best bang for the buck, IMO. The 2ohm JBLs I put in are easily driven by the stock amp to higher volumes than the stock units. Now, no doubt they'd sound better with a better amp, but that's $1,500 upgrade at a minimum.
I imagine the pillar and dash speakers produce most of the highs. The doors midrange? Did you already change these speakers up front out when you ran the stockers in the doors? To me it just sounds like the speakers are a bit muddy and not sharp at all. True a really bad amp can be just that.
Is the amp for the doors and fronts next to the sub amp or is it actually just a single amp system? Haven’t dissected anything yet.
Is the amp for the doors and fronts next to the sub amp or is it actually just a single amp system? Haven’t dissected anything yet.
Are we taking the front pillar speakers? What about the center? Sounds like a cheap upgrade to do for now. I just need it brighter and the mid range cleared up some. Extra volume is good too.
So dumb question.
The can plug at the factory amp has all the speaker wires
Say a Velocity Blue 802a owner wanted to do the zen and upgrade all the speakers and put an aftermarket amp in. Could said owner just tie into those wires or do you have to run new wires?
Wouldn’t be pushing much for than 45-60watts to the new speakers. Sub would be upgraded as well with new wiring since it’s right there.
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The can plug at the factory amp has all the speaker wires
Say a Velocity Blue 802a owner wanted to do the zen and upgrade all the speakers and put an aftermarket amp in. Could said owner just tie into those wires or do you have to run new wires?
Wouldn’t be pushing much for than 45-60watts to the new speakers. Sub would be upgraded as well with new wiring since it’s right there.
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Chris Mies
Full Access Member
You'll have to run new wires to the tweeters in the A-pillars because those are fed directly from the head unit. Piece of cake, even for someone as dumb as me. The rest of the wires can be reused. I used the empty pins on the adapter cable connector and wiring diagram that came with the Nav to tap those wires and it was very clean. No cutting or spicing the factory harness.
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