The SVT front face is an option. Yes mine has it. Looks very "factory"
It's $400 for the dual kit.
If you only want one gauge its $239
DIY Shady Tree Whipple Install Thread
- Thread starter rbarn
- Start date
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The SVT front face is an option. Yes mine has it. Looks very "factory"
It's $400 for the dual kit.
If you only want one gauge its $239
Bit of a slow down with life getting in the way. bla bla bla
Got the bits of aluminum welding I needed done this week. I also picked up the SCT flash tuner with the boosted tune loaded in it from my performance shop. They recommended not "getting on it" until I brought in for the final dyno tune and testing. Thats not until week after next so I may hold off on installing the blower itself until next weekend.
Will get the intercooler mounted tonight and post some more pics
Water pump and reservoir upgrades mounted up nice to the stock whipple bracket system.
Got the bits of aluminum welding I needed done this week. I also picked up the SCT flash tuner with the boosted tune loaded in it from my performance shop. They recommended not "getting on it" until I brought in for the final dyno tune and testing. Thats not until week after next so I may hold off on installing the blower itself until next weekend.
Will get the intercooler mounted tonight and post some more pics
Water pump and reservoir upgrades mounted up nice to the stock whipple bracket system.
Bluoval1118
Full Access Member
Still waiting......
Got the engine tore down last night. Should have the blower on today.
Some tips on removing the intake manifold.
1. If there is any way you have access to a car lift, this job would be infinitely easier with the body lifted off the truck. It's a bear to work towards the back and requires sitting on the radiator core support with one leg in front of the radiator and one behind. Not fun.
2. Whipple instructions have you removing T-stat housing after intake manifold is removed. It is much easier to get the manifold lifted up and off the engine with the T-stat housing out of the way though. From other post I do not plan on installing the 160* T-stat that comes with the kit. (and would not have anyway, 160 is way too low, 170-180 Reische Performance T-stat is only thing I would use)
3. The fuel rail quick connect is a bear and not easily figured out.
Start by prying the two small tabs holding the clip together apart in the direction of the red arrows. Then using two flat head jewelers screw drivers push on the small tabs on either side in the direction of the green arrows to push the locking ring out of the quick connect collar. you will then need to gently but firmly pry up on quick connect collar and it will pop off with a small click. I dont think you can do this by hand. A body panel pry bar with its wide slotted head worked perfect. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS CLIP - DO NOT BREAK IT.
Some tips on removing the intake manifold.
1. If there is any way you have access to a car lift, this job would be infinitely easier with the body lifted off the truck. It's a bear to work towards the back and requires sitting on the radiator core support with one leg in front of the radiator and one behind. Not fun.
2. Whipple instructions have you removing T-stat housing after intake manifold is removed. It is much easier to get the manifold lifted up and off the engine with the T-stat housing out of the way though. From other post I do not plan on installing the 160* T-stat that comes with the kit. (and would not have anyway, 160 is way too low, 170-180 Reische Performance T-stat is only thing I would use)
3. The fuel rail quick connect is a bear and not easily figured out.
Start by prying the two small tabs holding the clip together apart in the direction of the red arrows. Then using two flat head jewelers screw drivers push on the small tabs on either side in the direction of the green arrows to push the locking ring out of the quick connect collar. you will then need to gently but firmly pry up on quick connect collar and it will pop off with a small click. I dont think you can do this by hand. A body panel pry bar with its wide slotted head worked perfect. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS CLIP - DO NOT BREAK IT.
Last edited:
Bluoval1118
Full Access Member
Usually the fuel rails come off very easily. I have messed with those connectors a million times on Shelby's and once on my raptor. Maybe yours was just being stubborn
Nope. no need. especially for the cost, noise and install headaches vs. power gains.
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