GCATX
King Dingaling
I saw the Ford TSB for removing and capping vacuum lines, but it says "except raptor." Anyone know the reasoning behind this? It's chattering pretty bad. Just want to stop it until I have time to find the vacuum leak.
Disconnecting IWE hoses on a 2010?
- Thread starter GCATX
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
GCATX
King Dingaling
My best guess is it’s fuel economy related; I don’t see how it would cause any damage. Alternatively, you could just leave it in 4A.
OP
OP
GCATX
King Dingaling
Thanks. No 4a on the 2010 though.
Sorry I missed the 2010 part…the vacuum cap off TSB only applies to 4A transfer cases. The TSB that applies to Gen 1’s is a vacuum hose repair kit, there is no indication that non-4A transfer cases can have the vacuum line capped off. However, with the IWE delete kits that are sold, I haven’t heard of it being an issue.
OP
OP
GCATX
King Dingaling
Gotcha. I missed the TOD part, wasn't sure what that meant. lol. My vacuum pump crapped out. Gonna pick up a new one.
OP
OP
GCATX
King Dingaling
Update, disco'd the vacuum lines and it still intermittently makes chattering sound but noise goes away in 4h. Jacked the front pass tire off ground, spin tire, axle shaft does not spin. My understanding is that the shaft should spin with the tire if no vacuum present? Bad hub actuator?
My kid drives this truck so no telling how long this has gone on. lol
My kid drives this truck so no telling how long this has gone on. lol
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
following, did you check the axle nut for tightness?
OP
OP
GCATX
King Dingaling
Nut was still there. Seems okay.
I am assuming the actuator is trashed since the shaft doesn't spin with the tire. Will pull it apart, hopefully the shaft is okay.
Dane
FRF Addict
Man, I've fought this battle so many times. I think you are on the right track. You are down to a faulty IWE (yes, it should engage the axle with no vacuum present) or a loose axle nut.
It's possible it could jack up the teeth on the axle depending on how bad it is and how long it has been happening. Axle replacement isn't too bad if you need to do that - it's not much more work than the IWE replacement. Replace the axle seal at the same time if you do (that part is a bit of a pain). I would recommend OEM. I and others have tried out the cheap ones (I forget what they are called) and they like to leak past the seal.
You can also consider replacing the wheel bearings since you are right there, and they are wearable. Super easy. Tip - hang on to your old ones, I had a wheel sensor go bad and was able to pirate the old wheel sensor to fix it. Stupid things are expensive if you try to buy them.
Lasty, it's a good time to consider shocks and brakes, again because you have already torn into the same stuff.
It's possible it could jack up the teeth on the axle depending on how bad it is and how long it has been happening. Axle replacement isn't too bad if you need to do that - it's not much more work than the IWE replacement. Replace the axle seal at the same time if you do (that part is a bit of a pain). I would recommend OEM. I and others have tried out the cheap ones (I forget what they are called) and they like to leak past the seal.
You can also consider replacing the wheel bearings since you are right there, and they are wearable. Super easy. Tip - hang on to your old ones, I had a wheel sensor go bad and was able to pirate the old wheel sensor to fix it. Stupid things are expensive if you try to buy them.
Lasty, it's a good time to consider shocks and brakes, again because you have already torn into the same stuff.
