Deavers didn't fix my axle hop. Just broke 2nd drive shaft:(

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With that attitude you probably won't last very long here. Especially if you fail to realize how much knowledge and experience is here, Boss Hoss has had several Oil Burners with much more power than you have. If you chat with him he might be able to help you with some of the things he had to replace as well.

If he knew the answer he had plenty of chances to share. Why would I pm him? If he's got the answer, I think he should post it for all to see. As for oil burners, I just got rid of an f250 pushing over 900 hp. I sold it so I could try something different. My diesel would burn rubber from here to Dubai without any issues. Obviously my springs were a lot stiffer. I am new to this raptor thing. That's why I asked you guys for answers. I did not ask for you to criticize my driving.
I did not power brake the truck. I wasn't trying to drag race. I simply floored the truck off the start and it broke. I'm not whining or complaint about it, I'm simply looking for answers. The guys who responded to this thread with solutions are my heroes and I will probably be investing a lot of money experimenting with their ideas. The guys that responded to this thread by telling me to ease off the gas simply don't get it.

---------- Post added at 10:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

So your trying to make an offroad Pre-Runner an asphalt race truck why?
It's not a pre runner. It's a raptor. When I go full throttle in the desert (which I do), I have a full roll cage and a 6 point harness. The raptor is for retrieving my buggy after I break it. Where in this forum did I say I was drag racing?
 

Maxx2893

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Well here is my input. You won't be able to put that much power to the ground and keep the Raptor what it is in my opinion. They somewhat contradict themselves. You need soft springs for offroading but stiff springs to keep the wheel hop/axle wrap to a minimum. Unless you can find a way to swap springs extremely quickly and easily the only option I see if to 4-link you truck IMHO, however I do not claim to be anywhere near an expert in this department.
 

Nv Guy

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What you need is to install a two link. Those of us in off road racing have been using it on Deavers and Nationals for years. Not only will you stop the wheel hop completely but the truck will have a much better forward bite and it improves the handling as well. The two link cycles with the suspension and you don't lose any travel at all. I have this type of set up on my Bronco prerunner and the difference with and without is night and day.

Here is a link to an example of what I am talking about.

18" Rear Wheel Travel

This is exactly what needs to be done, because it removes the springs from having to control axle torque. The two link will provide the torque control by tying the axle to the frame of the truck. All the springs will have to do is hold the truck up. For this to work it is very critical that (as previously mentioned) the arc of the links have to match the arc of the springs. There are some other factors to this, but for here and now, this is step one in your solution. Step two is to understand that your tires are a factor here, but that is another subject for another thread.
 

treypal

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Awesome! I'm glad to see this thread is back on track. I'd love to know how much it would cost to do a 4 link setup. Anybody know?

Its one of those of you have to ask the cost deals...

Any good desert fab shop out west can convert your truck to 4 link. I've seen some where you keep most of your bed too.

If you are 4 Linking the front suspension will not be able to keep up, and you really need a roll cage. Plus, no more towing capacity.
 
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I use the truck to tow my boat and my buggy, so I guess the 4 link is out of the question. I spoke to the guy that works on my buggy about the 2 link setup. He thinks that I should try a custom spring pack from deaver before adding ladder bars. The stiffer springs will help out when I tow, so I'm leaning in that direction.
 
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A friend made a great suggestion today so I thought I would share. He said that I could do traction bars but make it so that they could easily be removed for when I go offroad. Since the truck spends 90% of the time on the stret, this makes a lot of sense. I couldbnrun the barscwhen I'm on the street to protect the truck from breaking. Then simply remove them when I go offroad since I probably won't be getting wheel hop on the dirt. I thought that was some great outside the box thinking. He's not a professional at this and nor am I. I wanted to see what you guys thought about this. Is there a problem that I'm overlooking? Will the bars be too hard to take off and put back on?
 

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