Deavers didn't fix my axle hop. Just broke 2nd drive shaft:(

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MTF

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Most of the problem is from wheel hop that is the main reason.
And yes anytime you increase power it affects everything down the line.
 

Al Bastaki

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Interesting thread
I would never recommend adding a turbo or a supercharger, or even an after market air filter.. Be it dry or oil... Especially if you intend going offroading. In our region, we get a lot of sand, and sandy weather is not good for the engine.

Keep your engine stock, it beats any engine out there, including rubicons with swapped hemis in torque output. The raptor has a nice transmission on it that withstands its power and adapts proper torque outputs at better rpm ranges and speeds.

Forcing induction, forces excessive amount of air to be blown in the engine, if you are offroading and you get in a sandstorm, and you got an air filter, you might as well get a recovery truck ready, headed straight to bore your cylinders... Turbos.. Even worse. The lag is a slow crank breaker, and the air filter.. Even if boxed will still get sand in your system.

Naturally aspirated American v8's... Are awesome. Most of our nissans are swapping theirs with ls3's and ls6-7, and they are mean beasts.
 

tcm glx

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What you need is to install a two link. Those of us in off road racing have been using it on Deavers and Nationals for years. Not only will you stop the wheel hop completely but the truck will have a much better forward bite and it improves the handling as well. The two link cycles with the suspension and you don't lose any travel at all. I have this type of set up on my Bronco prerunner and the difference with and without is night and day.

Here is a link to an example of what I am talking about.

18" Rear Wheel Travel

That AutoFab setup is what I plan on using on my old 92 F150 :waytogo:


Bringing a thread back from the dead....anyone running the Autofab twomlink for the Raptor?


Raptor 2 Link Kit
 

Canuck714

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Awesome! I'm glad to see this thread is back on track. I'd love to know how much it would cost to do a 4 link setup. Anybody know?

Not sure where you are, but if you are close to Dallas, look up The Rust Lab. Kyle can back half the truck and 4 link it, or maybe find a solution for you.
He builds some really bad ass creations, from desert trucks to in the weeds track cars.
https://therustlab.com/

The Auto Fab 2 - link is a great solution for eliminating the wheel hop. not sure about how it effects travel, but worth looking into. Its $700 and cheaper than a drive shaft.
The weight of the 35 inch Toyo MT and the soft springs is a problem. They bite, but don't hook, which leads to a bite/unload/bite/unload scenario...

I had that combo and switched to a 37 inch BFG. Its lighter and eliminated the majority of the wheel hop (in the dirt) I don't hammer it from a dig on the pavement, as I'm 600+ HP as well, and don't feel like breaking shit.
Its a 6500 pound truck on 37's... shit will break with that much power.

Your Camaro survives the beating with the same power simply because its turning a way lighter wheel/tire, has 1/3 the suspension and is half the weight of the raptor
 

HAP

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Rogue Racing traction bars. The same ones used on the Shelby Raptors. No travel limits. High quality parts.
End...

R,
HAP
 

mcasseba

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I was running same HP and TQ with never a problem using Denver Springs. Think you need to loose the 37's.
 

Rogue Racing

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Rogue Racing developed a fix for wheel hop when we partnered with Shelby American on the Baja 700 Raptor. Our Track Bar system prevents axle wrap, the root cause of wheel hop, and doesn't limit wheel travel. Our robust track bars won't bend or break during off road use, like some products intended for drag racing will. Our track bar system uses FK rod ends and is 100% made in the USA!


I have a supercharged 6.2 with headers and a Hennessy tune. I'm running the +2 deavers with 37" nitro mud tires. I broke the stock drive shaft so I replaced it with a Custom carbon fiber drive shaft from pstds. Just broke that one last night. I'll be calling outlaw first thing in the morning to see if they can come up with a solution for me. I would really like to pin the throttle off the start without breaking the truck. What good is 600hp when you can't use it? I thought I should post on here to see if anyone on here had any ideas on how permanently get rid of the wheel hop. Traction bars are the obvious fix but I'm really not interested in losing travel. There has got to be a better way to keep that damn rear end from twisting.
 

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