Brenthel long travel install

[ntm]

this update is useless without pics

Too late for that !
I've traded the raptor bed to a buddy and am cutting a f150 limited's bed.
I may have to remove the inner wheel wells too and make some new sheet metal inner wells.
Bumped out one side of the axle while the other side was drooped a little past ride height, the bed was lifted about three inches.
I'm going to order up some McNeil bedsides tomorrow. $550 for the bed sides, $400 for shipping

 

[Darthyota]

does that bedside match your front glass? ouch whats cheaper shipping or a border run? have you looked into self clearing and shipping freight?

 

[1ntheoc]

Do you know what those thingy's coming off the brake calipers are? They look like some sort of proportioning valve or something? I mostly was wondering if you had to bring the link brackets inwards to keep them from hitting the air shocks?

I have the same kit but bought it as a WIY kit and I'm probably about 2 months from install, but I noticed those little things and wondered if they were gonna be in the way.

 

[ntm]

does that bedside match your front glass? ouch whats cheaper shipping or a border run? have you looked into self clearing and shipping freight?

Just shipping is cheaper.

Do you know what those thingy's coming off the brake calipers are? They look like some sort of proportioning valve or something? I mostly was wondering if you had to bring the link brackets inwards to keep them from hitting the air shocks?

I have the same kit but bought it as a WIY kit and I'm probably about 2 months from install, but I noticed those little things and wondered if they were gonna be in the way.

Those are just vibration dampers to eliminate nvh from the rear brake assembly.
That's about as far out as you can put the axle brackets before you're binding the poly bushings at the frame. No advantage to going wider, I've got them right up against the brake caliper on the drivers side/panhard mount. Actually made a slightly shorter caliper guide pin and bolt so that I could push them out as far as possible. The nvh dampers aren't a factor.

I think I'm going to try to sneak a set of bumps right on the outside of the frame. If there's not quite enough clearance, they'll get mounted right in the frame itself.
I'm kind of keeping track of stuff I'm buying for use I terms of limit strap lengths, brake line lengths, bolt sizes etc.

 

[circafwsk8r]

Do you know what those thingy's coming off the brake calipers are? They look like some sort of proportioning valve or something? I mostly was wondering if you had to bring the link brackets inwards to keep them from hitting the air shocks?

I have the same kit but bought it as a WIY kit and I'm probably about 2 months from install, but I noticed those little things and wondered if they were gonna be in the way.

You could replace it w an m8 bolt or whatever it is......I think that's mostly for advance track which none of u guys should have active on an off road truck.....my truck was then born a "real truck" without it

 

[ntm]

You could replace it w an m8 bolt or whatever it is......I think that's mostly for advance track which none of u guys should have active on an off road truck.....my truck was then born a "real truck" without it

It's not in the way, and as I mentioned, it's just a noise damper. Not even worth thinking about further.
The real limiting factor is the caliper guide bolts on the drivers side, you need enough room to remove them. I shortened one slightly to allow the bracket to be pushed outboard on the axle as far as possible to try to make room for bumps between the frame and the link bracket. Upon further review, I don't think it was worth the trouble. I'm going to probably just bang holes through the frame where the factory bumps were and weld a pair of 2" x 2.5" stroke bumps in. It'll provide a better path for the forces applied to the bumps, and I'm going to use some camburg tubing clamps to tie the frame and bed cage in right above the bumps. That'll allow the bed cage to soak up some of the bump force and distribute it, while still allowing the bed cage to be removeable.
Geoff says most guys just use the factory poly bumps, as the bypass soaks up most of the bottoming forces. But you know how it is, in for a penny, in for a pound.

 

[circafwsk8r]

That's what I'm running w my leafs....2.5x2.5 king bumps around 60psi has been working for me.....120" wheel base tho......i would imagine ur beast of a truck may need more

 

[ntm]

That's what I'm running w my leafs....2.5x2.5 king bumps around 60psi has been working for me.....120" wheel base tho......i would imagine ur beast of a truck may need more

I've been running 120psi on the 2.5" bumps that were in it.

Incidently, anyone running something like rpg's bump kit should pull it off once a year and refinish the frame. I had some pretty good rust pitting and wear starting in there after only having it on for two years.

 

[circafwsk8r]

Wow......that is bumps that come in a kit from a vender?......mine are generic and something I fabbed myself..... Mine are hydro also if urs were air that would make sense........ Raptor is 20" longer wheelbase and 1000lbs heavier.......I started at 100psi and it was like hitting bare frame. Lol

 

[ntm]

Wow......that is bumps that come in a kit from a vender?......mine are generic and something I fabbed myself..... Mine are hydro also if urs were air that would make sense........ Raptor is 20" longer wheelbase and 1000lbs heavier.......I started at 100psi and it was like hitting bare frame. Lol

Almost no difference in weight at all on the back end of the raptor vs a normal f150. The weight differences are simply the larger motor, heavier shocks, larger tires, and a little more meat in the rear axle.
A raptor is just an f150 with some offroad stuff bolted to it ! And hence, when you bolt a bunch of offroad stuff to an f150, it weighs the same.
Most bumps are the same as a shock. Oil, valving, and nitrogen.