Bigger sub in the back

[PandaBoi]

Hey y’all,

Just picked up my new 21 raptor with the B&O unleashed sounds system, I saw it has a sub behind the wide rear seats but was curious if anyone has done anything to add a bigger/more powerful sub. I am a bass head and love the extra richness an aftermarket sub can add and saw some guys modifying their stock f150s to add a sub but with the top tier B&O system I wonder what issues could arise by modifying it. I was thinking of using the existing wires to the sub/amp and adding in another or replacing the existing one.

Any thoughts or comments are welcome, it might be best to leave it due to the warranty void issue potential but I was just curious if anyone else has thought about it.

Cheers!

 

[2022 Ruth]

Lots of routes you can go. If you just want bass, get something like the audio control 800.1 and use the speaker wire going to that free air 6x9 in the back into the audio control amp then pick a sub you like. MTI makes great stuff for behind the rear seat or under the seat. Issue with pulling that sub is that its a free air unit that vents into a hole in the back of the CAB. A piece of dynamat would patch it no problem. SoundsGood stereo makes block off plates too if you want something more solid.

If you want to redo the entire system you are going to need something like the ZEN unit from NAV-TV.

Id do option 1 first and I bet you would be happy.

MTI and SoundsGood have great premade plates for mounting amps too. You could mount your 800.1 AND your B&O amp to it. Should be pretty simple. Biggest pain on these is running the power wire but there is a great spot in the driver side grommet. You can cut off the little nipping and slide a 4 gauge right through it. What I also suggest doing, and I usually do in the past, is find an old trashed sub out of a junked ford that has the matching mate for the sub plug so you dont have to cut it to splice into it for your input on your amp.

Good luck!

 

[Shane361]

I'm a bass head myself. Currently running the Gately Audio enclosure with four 8" Gately Relentless subs and Sundown Audio Salt-4 at .5. I've had to upgrade my alternator, do the big 3 as well as install 56ah Lithium to run that amp at .5. It's an underseat with seat lift enclosure one of the best you are going to find while maintaining your rear seat. However, I'm about to pull my rear seat for two 12" Sundown Audio Zv5's with a custom enclosure. I need more....but hopefully not truck damaging more.

Not cheap but great bass
https://www.gatelyaudio.com/collect...8-relentless-ford-crew-cab-with-seat-lift-kit (Requires around a 5k amp)

Cheaper and still really good bass
https://www.foxacoustics.com/collec...-150-supercrew-2-10-vented-2009-2020(Requires around a 1k amp) Ran 500rms Sundown Audio 10's in this enclosure.

Also as 2022 Ruth mentioned check out MTI and soundsgoodstereo for truck specific needs.

There are tons of people who make custom speaker boxes which is of course the best route to take.

 

[PandaBoi]

Thanks @2022 Ruth and @Shane361, I appreciate the advice! I'll look into both of those, I'm definitely going to have to go with a behind the seat option since I have the lock-box under the seat that I was planning to use so an under seat box unfortunately wont work .

However, finding an enclosure that fits behind the seats and getting a nice single ~10inch with ~200-300 RMS i think would be decently better than what B&O put in there. I saw this Kicker unit was available but wasnt sure about it. Looks like it would go where the jack is (passenger side) and would require dealer installation no matter what due to OBD programming *sigh*. Ideally i could find something that would fit behind the rear seats driver side and still maintain the B&O Amp and do as minimal modification as possible while staying revertible.

@2022 Ruth would there not be a problem re-amplifying the sub output on the B&O amp back there? I'd assume i would want to splice the speaker wire into the amp rather than the sub wire out of the amp. Or is the difference negligible since the frequecies are already low enough on the sub wire?

Thanks again y'all!

 

[2022 Ruth]

That kicker unit is a nice but wouldnt be any better than what you have. Also, it mounts to where your B&O amp is so that wouldnt work.

The MTI half length is great and hidden. A JL 10 TW3 would work great in that or even one of the L7Ts from kicker for a little less $$$. You have to cut the back wall carpet or just take it out if you dont want to cut it. You also have to relocate the cellular box, which is super simple with some 3M tape. Just move it up a couple inches. No biggie.

Ford

As for splicing. If you are just wanting to get a signal for a sub, you would take your sub signal going to your existing B&O sub and feed it into the Audio Control 800.1. I mention Audio control as it gives you some additional tweaking to "accomodate" for any bass roll off that the B&O sub may have. The B&O system is mostly additional processing so the 800.1 helps try to balance that with what they call Accubass. The 800.1 also is designed for high level in (more so than a lot of amps), which is what you would be using.

 

[Shane361]

Thanks @2022 Ruth and @Shane361, I appreciate the advice! I'll look into both of those, I'm definitely going to have to go with a behind the seat option since I have the lock-box under the seat that I was planning to use so an under seat box unfortunately wont work .

However, finding an enclosure that fits behind the seats and getting a nice single ~10inch with ~200-300 RMS i think would be decently better than what B&O put in there. I saw this Kicker unit was available but wasnt sure about it. Looks like it would go where the jack is (passenger side) and would require dealer installation no matter what due to OBD programming *sigh*. Ideally i could find something that would fit behind the rear seats driver side and still maintain the B&O Amp and do as minimal modification as possible while staying revertible.

@2022 Ruth would there not be a problem re-amplifying the sub output on the B&O amp back there? I'd assume i would want to splice the speaker wire into the amp rather than the sub wire out of the amp. Or is the difference negligible since the frequecies are already low enough on the sub wire?

Thanks again y'all!

Sounds Good Stereo is suppose to be coming out with a behind the seat enclosure any day for two 6.5 subs. Seems they have put alot of time and research into it. Reach out to them and see the status if that is a route you might want to take.

 

[PandaBoi]

Awesome thanks y’all, ill definitely be taking a look at those! I plan to do it within the next month so I’ll let y’all know what I decide and make a post regarding the results. Sad that I couldn’t have just gotten the raptor without B&O and spent all the money saved on a custom system but at least the audio is still semi-decent.

 

[hpschrank]

For those that have the BO Unleashed system….does anyone hear anything coming out of the speakers in the head rests? I’ve put my up to them and hear absolutely nothing? Do I need to have my hearing checked? Lol!

 

[JeepSRT8]

For those that have the BO Unleashed system….does anyone hear anything coming out of the speakers in the head rests? I’ve put my up to them and hear absolutely nothing? Do I need to have my hearing checked? Lol!

I have been thinking the same thing. I tried playing with all the options, fade, stereo, surround and it seems I get nothing. Interested in what you find out.

 

[goblues38]

Lots of routes you can go. If you just want bass, get something like the audio control 800.1 and use the speaker wire going to that free air 6x9 in the back into the audio control amp then pick a sub you like. MTI makes great stuff for behind the rear seat or under the seat. Issue with pulling that sub is that its a free air unit that vents into a hole in the back of the CAB. A piece of dynamat would patch it no problem. SoundsGood stereo makes block off plates too if you want something more solid.

...

Id do option 1 first and I bet you would be happy.

MTI and SoundsGood have great premade plates for mounting amps too. You could mount your 800.1 AND your B&O amp to it. Should be pretty simple. Biggest pain on these is running the power wire but there is a great spot in the driver side grommet. You can cut off the little nipping and slide a 4 gauge right through it. What I also suggest doing, and I usually do in the past, is find an old trashed sub out of a junked ford that has the matching mate for the sub plug so you dont have to cut it to splice into it for your input on your amp.

Good luck!

THIS is horrible advice, and a complete waste of money.

The entire problem with the B&O systems is the crappy bass management applied inside the B&O amp. So grabbing a full signal off the rear doors is a horrible strategy. The B&O systems quickly starts to roll off the low frequencies to protect the factory speakers. Because the amp has such low power, it tears speakers up with any distortion. So the more you turn up the volume, the less bass makes it to the amp and speakers.....you could add 2 - 15's and 1,000 watts and it would still sound like crap because the B&O is cutting low frequencies.


Unfortunately....the B&O systems is not upgradeable in any way possible. You are just wasting your money.

If you have a B&O and you want it to sound better....you have to replace it all. $3,300 minimum starting point if you have to pay some one to do it.......If you know what you are doing....and no offense......if you have to ask on a board like this you most likely do not......you can do it for about $2,300.

Plenty of threads on this in the audio section.