Bad wheel hop...traction bars, deavers, or ? Please help!

[MTF]

@Jason Kerbs

I'll give you my honest opinion.
If it were my truck, I would go with the KHC torque arm!!!

KHC Off-Road Torque Arm - Krazy House Customs

I go there for all my aftermarket work.

 

[Jason Kerbs]

@Jason Kerbs

I'll give you my honest opinion.
If it were my truck, I would go with the KHC torque arm!!!

KHC Off-Road Torque Arm - Krazy House Customs

I go there for all my aftermarket work.

I wanted that initially but Gen 1 crew cab still in R&D

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[MTF]

Sorry, I have a scab, I would have let them use mine.
They just got done moving last year to a different town, I'm guessing things have been pushed back a few months.
Then add the China virus, I can see that happening.

 

[Jason Kerbs]

Is that Right! I was there last year they didn't mention that.
If they need a donor truck, they can use mine.
I've been contemplating on switching my HD Deavers to SD anyway.

I haven't called but that's what it shows when you try to order.

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[MTF]

Give them a call, a few of the mechanics have Gen 1 screws

 

[Jason Kerbs]

Thanks again for all your responses. Picked up some Deaver +3's and the SVC traction bars today. I'll be sure to give feedback on the setup and install.

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[BlueOvalF22]

That's an old video and I used that in my argument but the person insisted that it's an issue in turns.
Like I said before I'm just the messenger.

I've hit mine hard and hit some turns. Nothing like what block did air time wise..

I had just used Deavers I cleaned up and put new bushings and bolts on for a while. Then I did the bars.

Deavers were a huge improvement and so were the bars.

It's just two pivot points but the weld on forward mount puts one pivot where it does for a reason and the pivot point on the axle plate was placed where it was in relation to things for a reason as well.

If I had time I'd plot out the bars on springs in solid works and swing things up and down..

I'm sure SVC already did that just like with everything else they designed. Which is why they work.

 

[BlueOvalF22]

Thanks again for all your responses. Picked up some Deaver +3's and the SVC traction bars today. I'll be sure to give feedback on the setup and install.

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1. You will need to drop the tank to weld on the driver's side forward traction bar mount.

So drop the tank instead of cutting the leaf spring bolt per deavers instructions because the tank has gotta drop out and away to weld safely.

You need to pull your rear drive shaft so if the rear U-joints are known to be old or you don't know as a new ower... do u-joints.

Well I replaced both U-joints and ordered a third as a spare to go in the onboard spare parts catche.


2. Get new shackles. The SVC ones are the ones I have and they do have a wide range of rotation clearing the mounts at angles others don't.

3. Get air bumps for the rear..... If funds are tight call up SVC and just buy the strike plates so you don't need to drop the axle off the springs to put in the rest of it later.

4. Get the correct grade nyloc lock nuts to replace the nuts that came with the deaver u-bolts. They won't come loose like the ones they come with and they won't be as likely to seize as all metal lock nuts.

 

[zombiekiller]

I didn't say you have to, I said you may have to.
SVC certainly knows what there doing, no argument from me on that.

I just don't see where there is any pivoting points for the traction bars to allow the rear axle to move forwards and backwards when the springs cycle up and down.
If the traction bars don't allow that then they are pivoting the axle angle.
I guess it's not pivoting the axle angle enough to be a problem.

I can't find the thread were someone argued with me about the cheaper traction bars and off-roading. But someone did.
They claimed that they do bind in a turn in big whoops and when the truck is leaning in a turn and one spring is compressed and the other is drooped then the two traction bars are fighting each other and a few had to take them off.
Kind of makes sense to me, but I don't have them so I can't really say.
I'm just the messenger here, I wasn't there.

"whoever" debated with you on that is wrong.

I have lots and lots of miles on my bars.

I've broken them too. ( the lower mounts have been redesigned since.)

You don't want to have the axle move fore and aft. The arc from the front pivot point allows for the shackles to pivot/rotate just fine without any binding. They just don't work with dumb ideas like extended shackles. ( due to the aforementioned ark/pivot).

furthermore, SVC is being a bit reserved on the travel numbers. Mine work great. My truck cycles right around 21".

also- If you're jammin through big whoops, while turning, in a raptor, you're going to roll the truck. needing to remove the bars is the least of your worries.
Also, you actually WANT the rear of the truck to stay flat through a turn. The whole idea is to throttle steer. the outside rear tire will be slipping/spinning. If the outside tire hooks up, rolls a sidewall, or falls into a hole, the truck is going up onto two wheels at best and rolling at worst.

I've hit plenty of whoops and hammered my truck down Zoo road so hard that I blew up a 4.0 King. I have video someplace of my truck, with the blown shock, going through 3-4 foot whoops at 50 mph. If the bars caused binding, then my truck would not have been bouncing its ass like a chick in a music video.

 

[BlueOvalF22]

I think that the poster misquoted SVC.

Jeff probably told them that they work with their 18 inch shock bypass rack setup.

Which is more than 18-inch travel at the wheel.