Axle Wrap/Transfer case hitting cab

[Bulletnjm]

Are there any marks or dents you can see? Can you post up some pictures from under the truck around the transfer case?

 

[Deleted member 12951]

Mount a gopro to see for yourself

 

[Deco12]

No visible marks you cannot really see very well, Here are pics of the mount etc,


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I cant really get pics of the top of the transfer case there is hardly any room. The other guy who was in that youtube video I posted said the dealer put a rubber block on top the transfer case to see and the banging under the console went away but im sure he still had the wheel hop

 

[Deco12]

Here a few pics I just took, I felt the under side of the body cannot feel any dents or see any scratches heres a few pics, one thing I noticed though is that my driveshaft shows alot more of the shaft vs my work truck which is a 2013 f150 crew cab 4wd 5.5ft bed, not sure if that means I need a spacer or not.

here are more pics

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and the other trucks shaft where it goes into transfer case


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[ProjecT 9]

One Up Offroad traction bars. Like the ones I have on my truck. You can have them built with the 4" block included. Mine are for stock height just to help when I pull my boat but they allow for complete articulation. No loss in travel etc. I've had a OUO 525 series suspension on my last super duty. Highest quality you can imagine.

Couple videos showing axle wrap before and after traction bars.

http://youtu.be/k3h9QWrKN80

http://youtu.be/S86cnTd9XMk

 

[WRCRaptor]

Ill contact pauls, I was hoping to stay away from traction bars,

So yall think that the banging under neath the truck is just from alot of axle wrap/wheel hop causing the tcase to twist and hit the floorboard?

Well I think it could be if all the mounts for the rest of the driveline are good. The only thing that may make a difference is that you have changed a lot of the angles by lifting, on my Bronco I also had new front and rear driveshafts made after installing traction bars with better u joints and some type of double joint thing on the front shaft. But that was 20 years ago and I don't remember yesterday so well some times!!

By the way Paul's HP did lots of work for me on a Mustang or 2 they are great!

 

[cups]

Well I usually say dumb things but here ya go:
I seem to remember someone mentioning the angle the rear diff has with the driveshaft. I forget the fix to correct the angle.

And FWIW, I had very bad hop on the stock spring. Any speed bump would set it off unless I slowed to slow. I have added the National +2 HD springs. Have not had any hop on or off road since. My springs were part of RPG stage 3 kit that contains a frame support, hyd bump stop and the springs. I still run the stock Fox 2.5 shocks.
I've not had any issues with the National springs.

 

[PropDr]

The Raptor uses blocks between the rear springs and the axel; removing this blocks reduces wheel hop but will not eliminate it.
With your 4" blocks wheel hop is guaranteed.
Traction bars will eliminate it.
I believe that SVC has bars that can be installed without welding on the axel.

 

[Deco12]

Well I usually say dumb things but here ya go:
I seem to remember someone mentioning the angle the rear diff has with the driveshaft. I forget the fix to correct the angle.

And FWIW, I had very bad hop on the stock spring. Any speed bump would set it off unless I slowed to slow. I have added the National +2 HD springs. Have not had any hop on or off road since. My springs were part of RPG stage 3 kit that contains a frame support, hyd bump stop and the springs. I still run the stock Fox 2.5 shocks.
I've not had any issues with the National springs.

how do you like the national springs?

I am thinking of just trying springs, I like the idea of a leaf pack in the first place over blocks.

I appreciate everyones responses and help, I think I will try to stop by the offroad shop and let them look also. Ill keep it updated

Thanks again

 

[cups]

I've had no issues with the National springs and no wheel hop.