Ok between rain drops I got the axel bolts out. The spring perch is not Flat as I expected. Should it be Flat is the Question? This is a 2014 Roush I believe the previous owners did a lot of spinning the tires. The perch is really rounded letting the axel "rap" or roll forward and back. The pic is of a straight edge sitting on the perch. if is should be flat I am open to suggested fit. When the rain lets up I will try to get better pics.
Axel spring perch not Flat?
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
New recaros
FRF Addict
That’s correct, if it were flat, you would snap that spring right at the edge. They are spreading out the load.
@New recaros your response doesn't make any sense to me. The block between the housing perch and the spring is flat where it touches the spring.
There is Obviously a lot of movement in the past the holes in the perch are really wallowed out. there shouldn't be movement.
There is Obviously a lot of movement in the past the holes in the perch are really wallowed out. there shouldn't be movement.
New recaros
FRF Addict
I thought on all the roush and lifted trucks using springs to lift them, they removed the block and the leaf pack sat on there. I must be wrong if you have a block between
So this was my fix. I took 3/16 steel plate made 2 new pieces to weld on to the axel housing perch. Welded them all the way around. I had to fill the ends... This worked out good.
The holes were so badly worn.
I just got back from test drive. It drove nice and straight. The roads were still wet... so no launching (from 40 MPH) but feels way better. I think it is fixed. Thanks to all who responded to this and my other thread.
Now if I go with another set of springs I will have something flat to bolt them to.
The holes were so badly worn.
I just got back from test drive. It drove nice and straight. The roads were still wet... so no launching (from 40 MPH) but feels way better. I think it is fixed. Thanks to all who responded to this and my other thread.
Now if I go with another set of springs I will have something flat to bolt them to.
Attachments
I guess I will add to this thread. so it been a year since I did this fix. The problems didn't stop there. About a year to the day I picked up a new little vibration from the rear. coming back from the car wash... BANG... The rear drive shaft breaks. I buy a used one (stock) put it in small vibration still there. The owner said I should Put a new U joints in is so went to pull it back out to do the U joint. the pinion coupler is loose not bad loose but loose. So pulled the rear diff cover and find the pinion has gotten into the E locker.
I wasn't into the E Locker this time. There was no metal in the fluid. That had to mean that this happened before I got the truck.
So the truck got a new
E Locker $520
Pro instal kit $380 bering, bolts. seals, nut
crush bering delete $80
Re used the ring & pinion
custom 5 inch drive shaft $820
Deavers +2 Used $400
I hope this puts and end to this problem.
I wasn't into the E Locker this time. There was no metal in the fluid. That had to mean that this happened before I got the truck.
So the truck got a new
E Locker $520
Pro instal kit $380 bering, bolts. seals, nut
crush bering delete $80
Re used the ring & pinion
custom 5 inch drive shaft $820
Deavers +2 Used $400
I hope this puts and end to this problem.
Last edited:
Marlboroman
Active Member
Damn I wish I knew about the crush delete when I did mine. Seems like it’s the cause of all the problems. Maybe post the link for future use? Can’t hurt
Yes!!!!! They were in perfect shape. Aftermarket gears are not as good as the OG IMO. They tend to be more noisy and you would have a break in period. couldn't find a set of NEW factory.......(National back order)l I did get a set of motive just in case. but there still new in the box. If the old gear looked bad in any way they would have went in.
