Automatic Tailgate lock

[Doubleeaz]

I plan to pull off the door panel tomorrow morning and find out what wires are going to the door solenoid and also what voltages cause what action to happen on those wires.

 

[Doubleeaz]

I pulled the door panel off the driver's door and found the wires to the door solenoid. It has four wires going into the wiring harness but I can see inside the door to tell exactly where they are going. The colors on the wires match what my Ford wiring diagrams say.

Black w/violet stripe => Ground
Green w/violet stripe => door ajar
Gray w/brown stripe => all doors unlock
Lt Blue w/green stripe => driver's door lock

I used a tester and when I press the door lock button, the driver's door lock wire (LTBLU/GRN) goes to 12V and the unlock signal floats. When I press the driver's door unlock button, the unlock wire (GRY/BRN) goes to 12V and the other floats.

So what happens is that when you want to lock the door, 12V is applied to one of the wires on the solenoid. When you want to unlock the door, you apply 12V to the other wire on the solenoid. This unfortunately will not work directly with the wires from the pop-n-lock solenoid.

To open the pop-n-lock solenoid you apply 12V to one wire (A) and ground to the other wire (B). To close the pop-n-lock solenoid, you apply voltage in the opposite direction, ie, 12V to B and ground to A. The wires from the Ford door locks can not be connected directly to the pop-n-lock.

I checked the current on the pop-n-lock and it draws about 1.7 amps steady state and probably surges above that. What needs to be created is a circuit that when the GRY/BRN wire goes to 12V (lock), 12V and ground are applied to the pop-n-lock to lock the tailgate. If 12V is applied to the LTBLU/GRN wire, then the pop-n-lock unlocks the tailgate. One thing to be careful is that this circuits needs to make sure that if 12V is applied to both GRY/BRN and LTBLU/GRN, it does not try to turn on the pop-n-lock circuit as this most certainly will short something out.

I will be designing a circuit board that can take the lock and unlock signals from the wiring harness and translate that into the pop-n-lock solenoid. I am thinking that the board needs to be inside the truck because if it is in the tailgate, it would need to be waterproofed which adds more cost. The circuit will have the following wires: lock, unlock, ground, pop-n-lock A and B.

Let me know if anyone has any questions.

 

[MTF]

Thanks for taking door panel and checking the wires. Did you confirm the wires in the channel are the same that are in the door so that we can simple tie in a relay system?

At least we know (I am assuming) in layman's terms that the Raptor Door Actuator is a three wire hookup two hot and one ground or grounded at the actuator(seleniod) is that correct?

And when you say floats it means open circuit right?

Funny that I can not find a universal three wires actuator on line unless I missed it of course.

This setup is what you are talking about

When I had the Pace Edwards tailgate lock in my hands it came with this setup but does bolt on nor provide the function of working like the keyed door locks anyway. And I think the wires in the directions were wrong as well for our Raptors!!!

I have it on video not a picture and the video is 10 megs, so posting it is not going to happen.

I will call Pop and Lock tomorrow and see what they say on how they will correct this for us.

And of course see what you come up with.

 

[Doubleeaz]

I did not actually trace the wires back to the door but there should be nothing in between. We should be able to tap off the wires inside the truck.

As for the circuit you showed, the lock output and unlock output are shown as - which means these signals are grounded when activated. In the Raptor, these signals are 12V when activated. Pin 85 on the left relay and pin 86 on the right relay need to be connected to ground. This way when the lock or unlock signal go to 12V, the relay is activated.

 

[MTF]

Yes I think understand about relay. Thanks for catching that, it is a picture I clip off of 12Volts.com just to show an example.
As for the wires in truck it will be where Ford factory alarm door trigger wires are hooked up to, both being 12V + each.
I need to check what wires the alarm taps into again. Because off the top of my head can not remember.

If anybody needs the wiring diagram of the Ford Gold Alarm system I can post it.

 

[DubbsFaris]

I would like to see it, and it might be a good thing to do a thread on your alarm experience so we can see what you went through for that.

 

[MTF]

When I get it all working I will start a thread on hooking up the
Pace Edwards Electric Remote Control Bedlocker to the Ford Gold 6 key Alarm system

This one is very simple, but you never know!

It's not finished yet, waiting for Harness from the dealer they sent the 24 way instead of the 16 way




The highlights are the wires the Authorized Ford Factory Alarm Tech said to use to operate button 1 & 2
If you need a larger and clearer one I can email to you.

 

[MTF]

Update: Pop and Lock is sending their Relay Setup to me for Testing

 

[gordhunt]

Thanks appreciate all the work you guys have been doing

 

[Doubleeaz]

Any updates on the new relays from PNL?