Automatic Tailgate lock

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permag

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I just finished installing the Pop & Lock Tailgate lock on my '14 SC. The passenger side wiring wasn't behaving as expected, per the page 1 instructions in this thread. Tapping into the Blue/green stripe definitely affected the locking system, but not in a good way. All of the door solenoids on the truck went into a constant cycle of trying to re-lock 2x per second until I disconnected the wires. Changing to different grey/brown stripe wires didn't help, and neither did reversing the connection. I tested the solenoid direct to the battery, and it definitely cycled correctly. What finally worked was connecting to one of the grey/brown stripe wires, and to the violet/grey stripe wire. Works perfectly. I don't know if something changed on the '14s or if it was user error.

I ran the wires through the passenger side frame rail back to front, as suggested earlier. Makes for a nice clean install.

I'm attaching a photo of the correct '14 wires. Hopefully it will save someone a couple hours of head scratch'n.
 

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MTF

MTF

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I absolutely will be adding your wiring on the 2014 install in the first post!!!
And adding recognition to your find.

And I like to ask so there isn't any confusion, is yours a Screw or Scab?
And are the wires of the same gauge?
 
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permag

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I absolutely will be adding your wiring on the 2014 install in the first post!!!
And adding recognition to your find.

I wonder why Ford does this?

And I like to ask so there isn't any confusion, is yours a Screw or Scab?
And are the wires of the same gauge?


This is for the 2014 Screw. The violet/grey wire is the same gauge as the grey/brown.
 
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MTF

MTF

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Thanks

---------- Post added at 10:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 PM ----------

I see I found that wiring from another forum:


Originally Posted by Thread I linked earlier
I just found out that if you wire up the Grey with Brown stripe and the Violet with Grey stripe
then the tailgate will open with the SECOND press of the button.
So it will open with all the passenger doors instead of with the drivers door.
This is for 2011 XLT Supercrew.


permag, is this what you intended to do or it just works for you on the first press of the button?
 
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The Car Stereo Company

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just a small tidbit of advice. the blue t taps are meant for 16-14 ga wire. the wires you got are a 20ga. if you are not going to change the connection type, i would suggest using the red ones. they are for 18-20ga wire. i have seen many connection issues with the t taps being too big.


i have my lock wired on the first press of the button. i dont like progressive unlock. it annoys me
 

Ftera

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Agree. I'm installing my pop and lock tomorrow on my screw. Noah, which wires did you use to unlock non-progressive? Isn't that controlled by adjusting settings in menu or are there different wires for these functions? id like to nail first time round if possible. Thanks.

---------- Post added at 01:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:08 AM ----------

MTF thanks for the write up. Very helpful!! I called pop and lock and they told me to run the wires driver. I see y'all running passenger. Which is the correct way? Im assuming passenger but is there a difference. If I run driver the good thing is I could follow the factory harness all the way into the firewall. Opinions welcomed.
 
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Running the wire through the fire wall by the E brake cable IMO is a little dangerous since the wire will be pressed up against the edge of the hole.

As for drivers side or passenger I can only say 99% of installs work on the passengers side, while Noah has used the drivers side it wasn't a Pop & Lock actuator, should it it make difference no. But no one has else the Pop & Lock working on the drivers side as far as I can remember.

The Pop & Lock turns the key turns mechanism, so if you can use your key then there would be no problems with the Pop & Lock.
 
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