Alternator

[Nesc204]

I have a 2011 6.2L Raptor. Does anybody know of a good alternator rebuild kit or what kit to ask for?

 

[MTF]

I don't believe I've ever seen a post about someone rebuilding their alternator.
I know there were quite a few local shops that rebuild starters and alternators back in the day.
But with parts and labor prices now a days it's just easier to go with a rebuilt or new one and do the core exchange.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

I don't believe I've ever seen a post about someone rebuilding their alternator.
I know there were quite a few local shops that rebuild starters and alternators back in the day.
But with parts and labor prices now a days it's just easier to go with a rebuilt or new one and do the core exchange.

I used to rebuild my own alternators back in the day, you could buy the kits at any auto parts store, might have to look and see if Napa sells any these days or not.

 

[Nesc204]

All the kits I see don't include the diode rectifier. Only brush assy, bearings and voltage regulator. I wanna replace all the assemblys

 

[CoronaRaptor]

All the kits I see don't include the diode rectifier. Only brush assy, bearings and voltage regulator. I wanna replace all the assemblys

How much was the kit you seen and where was it, will be good info for others in the same scenario

 

[Nesc204]

Was on Maniac electrical website. I've also seen it in autozone and etc. Around 80 bucks. But not one of them say for a Raptor. Just mention Super Duty 6.2L. Couldn't even find the correct yr. All seem to have started around 2013. I quess I'm going to have to make some calls

 

[mashtastic]

High Output Alternators Built in USA | JS-Alternators

JS Alternators specialize in alternators, specifically custom high output alternators. We can custom build a high output alternator for almost any vehicle from 170 amp to 420 amp. We specialize in easy DIY bolt-in high output solutions for your vehicle, boat, motorcycle, etc, with custom options...

js-alternators.com

 

[rightway]

This will begin with a little reference to my background to justify my conclusions at the end. I started rebuilding my alternator a long time ago after struggling for for several years plus multiple attempts to fix a battery using excessive water problem. Replaced an OEM alternator with a rebuilt alternator from a major auto parts store, same problem, new battery, same problem. Finally had a well respected automotive electrical shop test the system and its voltage regulator. They saw no trouble but reluctantly did reduce the voltage output to its lower limit. Can't do that today. Better but still using water

My replacement alternator's front bearing started to fail some years later. I decided to rebuild it myself. Reading my factory shop manual one line at the time, testing everything, found one bad diode out of 6 diodes. Replaced the bearing and one diode, no more excessive battery water usage. How could a person be so unlucky to have a alternator fail and then buy a factory rebuilt alternator with the same single failed diode problem? After that I have always rebuilt my own alternators and starters. I also in the past visited one shop that rebuilt alternator, they were nice people. I was looking for some spare replacement diodes and they graciously sold me some from their working supply of used core parts. I saw no new diodes there. I have also noticed that many rebuilt alternators came remarked all with the same amperage output. Maybe not a problem unless you have a high output alternator or a later year improved model. I had a neighbor later that owned an auto parts store and I had access to his parts catalogs and store. I had later found a good source for new replacements electrical parts but they have now retired and closed their shop.

So my suggestion if your going to purchase a rebuilt alternator keep your old OEM core, for sure until your really sure its an exact replacement and it's working well. This becomes especially true it there is anything special about your electrical equipment such as higher amperage alternator, maybe a starter that possibly came with a heavy duty option. My observation is re-builders like to make one unit replace everything and the parts house enjoy their benefit of stocking just one part number. After all who will ever know? If you have your OEM unit sill in your hand, you have a good example and path back to an easier recovery.

One thing I can tell you if your alternator has an adjustable belt tension buy a belt tension gauge. My failed front bearing failure ended a long time ago after buying a belt tension gauge. About 1/4 - 3/8 inch to my suprize at the time can change a belt tension from too lose to too tight.

Good Luck, may everyone's alternator and starter last forever.

 

[Nesc204]

Thank you Rightway and everyone else. I have some decisions to make

 

[W0n70n]

I always try to jump on alternator threads and share what happened to me, I had an OEM alternator lose the nut that holds on the pulley and it caused the main shaft to get wrecked and eat the bearings in the process so I had to go find a new one. The first replacement I tried was an auto parts store w/e brand that after install worked for a few minutes and would cause constant charging issues from the voltage regulator and control circuit not working properly, took that one back and exchanged for a new one, same problem, did a bunch of research and found out that generic auto parts store alternators don't play well with the Ford PCM. I eventually found a great deal on a Mechman High Output alternator and the second I got it installed it immediately fixed all of my issues. When you go to replace anything always go OEM or reputable aftermarket, if you rebuild make sure the regulator and rectifier is OEM or better.