BMart
FRF Resident Artist
There are plenty of install threads, this is not another one. I recently finished installing the Alternative Offroad hood mounts and just wanted to share some tips that would have made the project infinitely easier.
First off, I tried installing these many months ago. I followed the rules by the book and I could not get the rear hood mount bolt to align properly. After hours of fussing with it, chipping my hood paint, and practically forcing the mount into position, I finally cross-threaded the rear bolt and I was spent. I hulked it down and abandoned the project in frustration. So, my truck had a single hood mount on it, with no light, for months. Yesterday I attacked it again and this time it installed without a single issue. What changed? First, I followed Kaiser's guide (which wasn't out during my first attempt). Second I got better tools. And third I prepped more. Here are my tips:
So glad this is done now. The lighting is worth it and Light Cannons work perfect in this application.
Those that have cross-threaded a bolt like me, how are you addressing it (if at all)? Mine is hulked down and not going anywhere, but it bothers me that it's all sorts of hacked in there. I thought about re-tapping, but the location would require cutting the plastics, which defeats the purpose of getting a hood mount kit that avoids cutting the plastics. I'm leaving it alone for now, but if anyone has ideas I would love to hear them.
First off, I tried installing these many months ago. I followed the rules by the book and I could not get the rear hood mount bolt to align properly. After hours of fussing with it, chipping my hood paint, and practically forcing the mount into position, I finally cross-threaded the rear bolt and I was spent. I hulked it down and abandoned the project in frustration. So, my truck had a single hood mount on it, with no light, for months. Yesterday I attacked it again and this time it installed without a single issue. What changed? First, I followed Kaiser's guide (which wasn't out during my first attempt). Second I got better tools. And third I prepped more. Here are my tips:
- Get some really good low-profile high-resolution ratchets. I used GearWrench 120XP ratchets which allow 3° ratcheting. I also got some GearWrench QuadBox double ended ratcheting box wrenches with the 10mm on one end, which are very small and work great for the rear bolt. These tools made a big difference in those tight spaces.
- Cover every nearby painted surface with tape, microfiber cloths, or a combination of the two. Things will get banged around a bit, guaranteed.
- Stuff a towel in the fender well.
- Install the lights on the mounts first. Installing the lights on an already installed mount is much more difficult. You can leave the light relatively loose to aim it later if you want, a 17mm wrench will barely get to the lower bolt with the hood closed.
- For the gas piston retainer clip, DON'T TAKE IT OFF ALL THE WAY. Once it disconnects it will catch on the side of the knuckle. Freaking leave it there and remove the joint as normal. If you take the retainer clip off all the way it will go flying off into your engine compartment and once you find it or buy a new one it will be your worst sweaty nightmare to get back on.
- Release the LOWER gas piston joint, not the top one. Once you release it, it will expand and if you do the top one it will expand right into your hood.
- I did the entire install by myself using two hiking poles with rubber feet on the end to hold the hood up. They are height adjustable and worked perfectly.
- Follow Kaiser's guide, and push the entire mount/light assembly through the gap when the hood is open 2/5 of the way. It will slide in without any issue. If you try to introduce the mount with the hood fully open or closed, you're going to have a bad time.
- For the dreaded bolts, hand tighten the front one first about 3-5 turns, it won't be the bad one. Then, get jiggy with the rear one. Move the bracket around, move the hood arm around and vary the weight that the hood is applying to the area. During the jiggle dance, just keep trying to hand tighten it. If it's not going on by hand, remove the mount and see if you can just put it back on without the mount. If you can, re-install the mount and try again. Jiggle enough parts during this step and it will go. Worry about the hood alignment after you've threaded both bolts by hand.
- Before tightening all the way, push the mount as far as it will go in toward the windshield wipers. This will give a little extra needed room between the mount and your fender's paint during high-vibration rides.
- I measured OEM torque at around ~20 ft-lbs. I was able to properly torque the front one, but the back is a guessing game.
- I bought the SDHQ wiring harness, which made wiring super easy. I ran it through a plastic channel along the top-rear of the engine bay, no zip ties or clamps needed.
- Connecting the Ford upfitter switches are a different issue. I hate how short the wires are. Don't even bother soldering. Those of you who say you soldered your pass-through wires either have small elven hands or skills beyond my years. Buy some Posi-Twist connectors and move on with your life.
So glad this is done now. The lighting is worth it and Light Cannons work perfect in this application.
Those that have cross-threaded a bolt like me, how are you addressing it (if at all)? Mine is hulked down and not going anywhere, but it bothers me that it's all sorts of hacked in there. I thought about re-tapping, but the location would require cutting the plastics, which defeats the purpose of getting a hood mount kit that avoids cutting the plastics. I'm leaving it alone for now, but if anyone has ideas I would love to hear them.
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