LEGENDARYNEWB
Member
I'm not going to lie I quite envy that... LOL.
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I'm not going to lie I quite envy that... LOL.
Missed this post earlier but this is 110% correct.The evaporator would be frozen over if it were blowing “high 20’s” out of any A/C unit. Obviously you are not getting accurate readings.
Now if i could get that kind of temp out my GEN1 2010 . Even new best was 50 deg at idle , can get into high 40s moving but soon as i stop and idle 70s . I have replaced TXV , then compressor . Cleaned evaporator , was not too dirty , Replace drier filter . Changed blower fan, bushing was making noise . Still have yet to change condenser so that's last piece of the puzzleI'm not going to lie I quite envy that... LOL.
I have found that my temp gun is not the most accurate.Missed this post earlier but this is 110% correct.
you know the liquid that drips under the vehicle with A/C running well that is H2O condensation from the evaporator , funny thing is H2O freezes right about 32 degrees. Any temp lower than that and you will get ice.
That is why evaporator temp is attempted to be regulated right close to 38-42 degrees.
I have seen one vehicle (1990 Ford thunderbird supercoupe) that would regularly freeze up (like within 5 minutes of turning A/C on)
Was one of the first vehicles that the engine computer controlled the A/C compressor. Turned out it had a very bad PCM ground, since the PCM could not find a good ground it used the A/C clutch coil which kept the engine running but froze the evaporator within minutes.
The A/C cut out switch would trigger, but the compressor would keep on running.
It also sounds like your expansion valve could be faulty.OK, so I took my truck in for AC issues a couple weeks ago to the dealership. Sometimes it blew cold, conditioned air, sometimes it blew warm, humid, unconditioned air. The tech checked it out and found the refrigerant was low so they recharged it, and could no longer find an issue with the compressor, compressor clutch or anything else, but he put dye in the system to see if there was a leak. Well I got my truck back and noticed it still took about 5 minutes of driving before it blew cold, dry/conditioned air.
So, I went back to the dealership and asked to speak to the tech. He told me that was normal in all the newer trucks due to the new refrigerant they were using. Since mine was low, he had to refill with the new kind.......F'$#!@!!! He said it's an issue in all the newer trucks because of the new refrigerant being used, so I'll need to remote start my truck about 5-10 minutes before I go anywhere in the Summer to allow my truck to cool off. He said it typically takes about a minute for the blower motor to kick in on the newer trucks as well.
What kind of BS is that? For those with newer 21+ Ford trucks, is this true????
So the tree-hugging EPA mandates restrictions on freon to make it "Greener", which in turn, makes me need to burn more GASOLINE longer while idle, producing more emissions, that "affects" the environment, to cool my truck to a comfortable temp and make up for the "greener" refrigerant...........have we lost our minds?!?!? The "scholars" and scientists in some of these industries sure have! Common sense is hard to find these days!
Doesn’t sound totally unreasonable but I don’t see any 100 days here. Is it on recirc or fresh air? Recirc should be able to dip way lower after a few min.So the tech keeps telling me the 53 out of the vents is normal while 98-100 outside. What do you fellas think of that?
This occurred while the truck was going 75mph down the highway. It just doesn't seem right.
OMG, sorry but the lack of understanding is beyond me some days.Question...
Is it normal for my AC to blow 58ish if my fan speed is set to 7/max? My compressor was just replaced and something seems odd. If I lower my fan speed it gets a bit cooler. All this being said something feels off. What do you all think?