A/c actuators

[tonyraptor]

The HVAC directly powers the actuators. Testing the actuator outside of the case won’t provide accurate results, because the module is looking for a change in amperage when the door reaches end of travel. When it never sees an amperage change, it has no frame of reference to move to the next position. I suspect you are able to get it to move in the defrost direction as a fail safe in the event that motor position is lost.

Understood , So what would you think is the problem if continuity and resistance are good on all cables ? And the code I am getting is short to batter Or open circuit .

 

[FordTechOne]

Understood , So what would you think is the problem if continuity and resistance are good on all cables ?

At that point the only thing left is the HVAC Module.

 

[tonyraptor]

At that point the only thing left is the HVAC Module.

Does an HVAC module on a 2010 needs programming or could I buy a used one or what will you recommend ?

 

[FordTechOne]

Does an HVAC module on a 2010 needs programming or could I buy a used one or what will you recommend ?

The module must be programmed to the vehicle, I would not risk buying used.

 

[tonyraptor]

The module must be programmed to the vehicle, I would not risk buying used.

Can I program it with Forscan ?

 

[tonyraptor]

The module must be programmed to the vehicle, I would not risk buying used.

Do you know if that part number supersede to another one . Thanks

 

[CoronaRaptor]

The module must be programmed to the vehicle, I would not risk buying used.

Is this what he needs?

2010 Ford F-150 Dash Control Unit AL3Z-19980-Z | TascaParts.com

2010 Ford F-150 part # AL3Z-19980-Z - Dash Control Unit

www.tascaparts.com

 

[rschap1]

I am getting readier...
Time to re-visit the actuator replacement...
Been watching a LOT of videos.
I have to do the lower one by passenger's feet.
The vent's aimed at driver blow hot air when everything else is cold AC.
I was pointed that direction a while ago.
Also got help with console/shifter removal allowing access to the area where the actuator is.
BUT...
most videos I been seeing show either saw zall chopping of the duct work below the actuator (blend door actuator), breaking a post off, drilling holes to be taped up after, pry bars, or some other destructive short cut saving removal of the entire dash.
Fully realize that some sort of something may need to be done to get access in a tight spot.
Don't really want to leave any "permanent scars" or wreck anything I do not have to.
Seemed like there were a few others who replied previously saying they been through this too...
Now that I know how to get at the area, anyone have tips or advice on getting two mounting screws, the wiring harness, and the blend door actuator in and out without leaving a trail of duct tape and destruction?
Hoping once I get that far along I can figure something out, but on vacation this week and realized I left all my "miniature" wrenches and tools at work. (Ain't going back in there just for those).
Probably put it off until I return, but wondering how best to get in there once I am able.
As always THANKS very much ! ! !

 

[AZBound]

Do you know if that part number supersede to another one . Thanks

Did you ever figure out this out? I am having the same issue....