Idaho
Full Access Member
Inquire with the dealer and see if they know the story. Could be as easy as the guy slid in the snow (being it is Ohio), bumped something, and didn't file under insurance if nothing was affected. Good luck in your search.
5.4L vs 6.2L Gen1 Pros/Cons + Pricing in 2021
- Thread starter BlackenedSVT
- Start date
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Inquire with the dealer and see if they know the story. Could be as easy as the guy slid in the snow (being it is Ohio), bumped something, and didn't file under insurance if nothing was affected. Good luck in your search.
parallax_ca
Member
It was asked so I figured I’d post it here. Just what I’ve learned along the way…
Absolutes are (in my opinion):
Don’t get a 5.4L - 6.2L all day!
Aim for a 2013/2014
Aim for stock - mods are cool but could imply things went wrong and got changed.
See it in person
Know history; how many owners/locations - rust belt?
Drive it
Make sure 4 High/Low work
Crawl underneath and check for rusting rockers and cab corners ($5k fix last quote)- try to get one without a sunroof; the drains aren’t routed out of the cab and dump into the cab corners, causing it to rust from the inside out.
Check gaps from cab to bed - 13/14’s have reinforced frames, 10-12’s have been known to have bent frames from jumps.
Try to get shock history; how many miles on it/have they been rebuilt ever? They are rated for 50k mi on road (has it been off-roaded a lot? Only rated for 10k mi if so) - usually around $1k for a rebuild and if you don’t have spares to swap on you’re out a truck for a month or more.
Tires - it’s probably around $1500 now for new meat; a win if it has fresh/newish ones.
Brakes - again, mileage; how much, have they been replaced recently? Probably near $1k for quality replacements when all said and done.
Fluids - have they done a refresh on all? Again - mileage matters.
Plugs - again, mileage; have the plugs and wires been changed? Have the coil packs?
@FordTechOne is a bastion of information. Look up his posts and reply’s for a wealth of knowledge.
Absolutes are (in my opinion):
Don’t get a 5.4L - 6.2L all day!
Aim for a 2013/2014
Aim for stock - mods are cool but could imply things went wrong and got changed.
See it in person
Know history; how many owners/locations - rust belt?
Drive it
Make sure 4 High/Low work
Crawl underneath and check for rusting rockers and cab corners ($5k fix last quote)- try to get one without a sunroof; the drains aren’t routed out of the cab and dump into the cab corners, causing it to rust from the inside out.
Check gaps from cab to bed - 13/14’s have reinforced frames, 10-12’s have been known to have bent frames from jumps.
Try to get shock history; how many miles on it/have they been rebuilt ever? They are rated for 50k mi on road (has it been off-roaded a lot? Only rated for 10k mi if so) - usually around $1k for a rebuild and if you don’t have spares to swap on you’re out a truck for a month or more.
Tires - it’s probably around $1500 now for new meat; a win if it has fresh/newish ones.
Brakes - again, mileage; how much, have they been replaced recently? Probably near $1k for quality replacements when all said and done.
Fluids - have they done a refresh on all? Again - mileage matters.
Plugs - again, mileage; have the plugs and wires been changed? Have the coil packs?
@FordTechOne is a bastion of information. Look up his posts and reply’s for a wealth of knowledge.
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