37" BFG ATs

[ZBoater]

ZBoater....getting wheels with greater offset than stock @ +34 (i.e. "0" or negative offset) will increase the chances of rubbing since you are pushing the wheel farther from the hub with a tire of increased circumference.

The OEM offset tucks the tire in more, therefore it has less probability of rubbing...any suspension compression will increase the chances of rubbing with all of the other variables remaining constant. That's where the body modifications come into play.

Understood, but this is under off road compression. During daily driving, the chances of a OEM wheel causing a larger tire to "rub" while turning into a parking lot are greater. So it's a trade off.

 

[BAJASVT]

^^^ disagree and I think ramrodthrusterpuppy will too. The chances of an oversized tire rubbing is lower when mounted on an OEM wheel or wheel with OEM specs than it would be on a wheel with less backspace or more offset in ALL situations... on and off road.

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

Rub'n is race'n, boys...worse case, it rubs on the plastic liner...no harm. I have methods and the BFG 37s on mid perch and on occasion, taking a turn and braking at the same time it rubs the liner. I did all of my cutting because I use it for what its meant for and off-road. Now I would not recommend any other 37 other than the BFG AT because of the true size. You go any bigger with stock fenders, regardless of rim (stock / aftermarket) your chances of rubbing goes up. Even for street queen driving. The 35 Toyo MTs on stock wheels rub. Like i have stated before, you gotta put some skin in the game if you really want to play.

 

[ZBoater]

Well, it just makes sense to me that if I'm putting a bigger tire on an OEM wheel, without changing the offset, they'll be more rubber sticking out into areas it shouldn't on both sides. By pushing out the wheel it at least separates the rubber from the inside, making the outer fender the problem, which would manifest itself at compression.

But as I said before, I've read plenty of posts of people using 35 and 37 tires on stock wheels said it rubs/doesn't rub. Same with 0 offset or with higher + offset. I have seem more consistency on people saying 0 offset is the max and + offsets are a bad idea. A lot of the wheels in 17" I've shopped are 0 offset, and that offset is very popular.

And of course the brand of tires matter.

I any case, I'll let you know what 37x12.5x17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs with Kevlar on Mickey Thompson Sidebiter II wheels with 0 offset and 5" backspace do on the street tomorrow. Maybe. If 4 Wheel Parts comes through. If not, I'll be posting another one of these...

 

[BAJASVT]

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, but I'd bet you're going to need some decent trimming.

Stock Offset: 34 mm
Sidebiter II Offset: 0 mm
Difference: 34 mm / 1.3 inches

Stock Backspace: 6.09 inches
Sidebiter II Backspace: 5.0 inches
Difference: 27.7 mm / 1.1 inches

Either side you measure from, that wheel is going to protrude out of the wheel well laterally a little over an inch more than stock. That combined with the fact that the MTR is larger than the BFG AT doesn't seem like a great combo.

I look forward to hearing what you experience and would like to see pictures of how close the rear of the tire gets to the rear of the fender/flare with the wheels turned to get them the closest.

 

[BAJASVT]

This is my front drivers side tire with my steering wheel turned one full revolution to the left. This is the closest point of contact for my 37" BFG ATs on OEM wheels with the vehicle at rest. It's damn near exatly a one inch gap. This was before I installed the PDP mud flaps which definitely get closer to the tire, but still don't rub.

ZBoater or anyone running 37" tires and any other wheel, I'd like to see a similar photo for comparison sake.

 

[ZBoater]

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, but I'd bet you're going to need some decent trimming.

Stock Offset: 34 mm
Sidebiter II Offset: 0 mm
Difference: 34 mm / 1.3 inches

Stock Backspace: 6.09 inches
Sidebiter II Backspace: 5.0 inches
Difference: 27.7 mm / 1.1 inches

Either side you measure from, that wheel is going to protrude out of the wheel well laterally a little over an inch more than stock. That combined with the fact that the MTR is larger than the BFG AT doesn't seem like a great combo.

I look forward to hearing what you experience and would like to see pictures of how close the rear of the tire gets to the rear of the fender/flare with the wheels turned to get them the closest.

Thanks for that. That is very helpful. I was aiming for 1" protrusion. I like the bulldog look, but only a little. I realize this will cause issues with the outer fender under compression, but I'm hoping some trimming will take of that. We'll see.

 

[Jammer]

You on mid perch

 

[ZBoater]

Will be tomorrow if all goes according to plan.

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

This is my front drivers side tire with my steering wheel turned one full revolution to the left. This is the closest point of contact for my 37" BFG ATs on OEM wheels with the vehicle at rest. It's damn near exatly a one inch gap. This was before I installed the PDP mud flaps which definitely get closer to the tire, but still don't rub.

ZBoater or anyone running 37" tires and any other wheel, I'd like to see a similar photo for comparison sake.

I'll snap a pic of mine. One thing to think about too is the wear and tear and age of your truck. I have an '11 and it's been used, so things are as tight and crisp as a newer truck, so i'm sure i have some more give and play in my truck suspension. Like i said, i rub when taking a turn and braking, just a bit, not much.