2023 Shocks at Max Gross Weight...

[Zybane]

I don't do any jumping or anything crazy, but I do run my '23 single valve 37PP at max gross weight in an overland configuration with Eibach HD springs. The truck definitely feels under-valved and bops up and down a lot. Could my shocks be worn out already at 32K miles? Is it possible to upgrade to the dual valve shocks on the 24+ (would that help much)? Or should I ditch the OEM completely and go something beefier?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

shocks and springs

 

[shigman]

I don't do any jumping or anything crazy, but I do run my '23 single valve 37PP at max gross weight in an overland configuration with Eibach HD springs. The truck definitely feels under-valved and bops up and down a lot. Could my shocks be worn out already at 32K miles? Is it possible to upgrade to the dual valve shocks on the 24+ (would that help much)? Or should I ditch the OEM completely and go something beefier?

Does setting them to sport help at all?

 

[taquitos]

You would have to swap entire wiring harnesses and likely at least the VDM to put dual live valves on. They have four pin connectors whereas the single live valves are two pin connectors. I don’t think it’s really feasible. Even if you did that swap, I’m not sure it would solve your problem. Shock tune is based on vehicle weight and spring rate. At max gross weight you are past what any stock raptor shock is intended for. On top of that, the rebound tune is too light for stiffer springs. Your best bet would be to get the shocks you have revalved stiffer both on compression and rebound.

 

[Idaho]

Have you considered a stiffer tire as well?

 

[Badboy4fun_wa]

Definitely a stiffer tire will make huge difference and provide better range of air pressure. I like my C rated but in your case I bet an E would feel a lot better.

 

[Zybane]

Does setting them to sport help at all?

You know, it doesn't make much of a difference. I wonder if it's because the shocks are maxed out.

You would have to swap entire wiring harnesses and likely at least the VDM to put dual live valves on. They have four pin connectors whereas the single live valves are two pin connectors. I don’t think it’s really feasible. Even if you did that swap, I’m not sure it would solve your problem. Shock tune is based on vehicle weight and spring rate. At max gross weight you are past what any stock raptor shock is intended for. On top of that, the rebound tune is too light for stiffer springs. Your best bet would be to get the shocks you have revalved stiffer both on compression and rebound.

I guess I will toss out the dual live valve upgrade idea. Maybe I will have my stock shocks rebuilt and re-valved stiffer. By chance does anyone know if there is an aftermarket beefy upgrade over my Fox single live valve available? I don't care if I lose the steering wheel switch adjustability.

Have you considered a stiffer tire as well?

Interesting, that hadn't come to mind. I'm still well within the C rated OEM weight range, but I take it you think my vehicle weight is adding some bouncing from the tires? Of course something like a 10-ply R rated would also worsen the ride quality possibly.

 

[taquitos]

Fox does have an aftermarket set up for the gen 3 now. Personally I’d look at going the revalue route though. Less expensive by a long shot and then end result is more tailored to your setup.

 

[pnwobrigade]

The Eibach springs are still soft you would be better trying Airlift 1000 bags to support that much load. Even the “HD” springs are still pretty soft at that range.

You could also have the shocks revolved for higher spring rates. I’d bet you would be surprised how well the Airlift bags do for that weight though.

 

[Idaho]

You know, it doesn't make much of a difference. I wonder if it's because the shocks are maxed out.



I guess I will toss out the dual live valve upgrade idea. Maybe I will have my stock shocks rebuilt and re-valved stiffer. By chance does anyone know if there is an aftermarket beefy upgrade over my Fox single live valve available? I don't care if I lose the steering wheel switch adjustability.



Interesting, that hadn't come to mind. I'm still well within the C rated OEM weight range, but I take it you think my vehicle weight is adding some bouncing from the tires? Of course something like a 10-ply R rated would also worsen the ride quality possibly.

As the tires are essentially the first piece of your suspension as they flex at impact, a stiffer side wall should help. Probably a D rated instead of jumping up to E. Will help with turning as well due to less flex laterally.